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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-13-2016, 01:20 AM   #301
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Default Spur gear cover

I thought they made the cover easier to get off. You still have to take out the steering servo to get the spur gear cover off. What a pita during a cup race.
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Old 07-13-2016, 04:31 AM   #302
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Hello from Australia.

I have just purchased a new 22-4 2.0. I have bought all the normal spares such as arms, shock towers, spindles ect. I'm wondering if I need to keep a spare set of belts also. I am only running 17.5 Blinky. I hate down time and waiting for parts.

Besides an entire spare car what else do you guys recommend carrying to avoid ever having down time.

Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:21 AM   #303
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Originally Posted by ChrisUU View Post
Hello from Australia.

I have just purchased a new 22-4 2.0. I have bought all the normal spares such as arms, shock towers, spindles ect. I'm wondering if I need to keep a spare set of belts also. I am only running 17.5 Blinky. I hate down time and waiting for parts.

Besides an entire spare car what else do you guys recommend carrying to avoid ever having down time.

Thanks.
I'm keeping:
Belts;
Pulley set;
Front hinges;
Bellcrancks;
Pinions;
Spurs;
Also CVA dogbones is nice to have.
Front pivot and brace;

I'm a local dealer in my country and this is the list of spares that were broken down, or needed a service on original 22-4 in last two years.
I have only broken a shock tower and front arms, but others have broken parts listed above within last two years. not because car is fragile, but on those nsaty landings, as out tracks are mostly suited for 1/8 they can be rough on 1/10th's
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:25 AM   #304
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
"Stuck issue"?
I have a CVA that hasn't broken free yet....
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:39 PM   #305
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So took my 22 4 to the track yesterday(OCRC). At first the car was good but once the new dirt webs broke in, this car is AMAZING, does everything better than my last cars(Schumacher, and D413). I know the car is new so people will say it drives good just because it is new, I clearly remember when my Schumacher K1 and D413 was new it did not drive as good.
The 22 4 2.0 jumps, lands, corners, steers better and that is right out of the box, only change I made was removing the 1mm limiter in the front shocks.
If I were to nit-pick it I would put some Kyosho springs on it and that would be it, so with that, those of you who are running the Kyosho springs, what length and colors/rate do you use?

Thanks
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:46 PM   #306
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Thanks. I'll be sure to carry those spares.

Does anybody have a good starting point for 17.5 blinky (gearing). I'll be running a 76 spur. I'm new to 4wd and and have no clue on gearing.

Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2016, 03:44 AM   #307
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Default Losi 22-4 2.0

We just purchased, built and tested the our new 22-4 2.0. We are new to the off-road 4x4 cars. We used the 50k weight diff fluid in both front and rear, used the 32.5 shock oil in all 4 shocks. Car seems to pull the front wheels on all accelerations and corners. After about 60 laps, we shredded the front drive belt.

Any idea what might have caused this issue to occur? Is it a kit issue or a build issue or setup issue?

Thx.
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Old 07-16-2016, 10:28 AM   #308
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Originally Posted by maurorace74 View Post
We just purchased, built and tested the our new 22-4 2.0. We are new to the off-road 4x4 cars. We used the 50k weight diff fluid in both front and rear, used the 32.5 shock oil in all 4 shocks. Car seems to pull the front wheels on all accelerations and corners. After about 60 laps, we shredded the front drive belt.

Any idea what might have caused this issue to occur? Is it a kit issue or a build issue or setup issue?

Thx.
You must be running a very mod motor. Sounds like you have your slipper to tight.
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:57 AM   #309
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You must be running a very mod motor. Sounds like you have your slipper to tight.
Hi, im running a 7.5 and thought I adjusted the slipper correctly but have now shredded two front belts in 5 track days and two races ( about 20 packs). I will adjust the slipper once again per video set ups, but what should I expect?

I read post stating very minimal front belt breakage and wonder what's making my experience so different?

Any thoughts and advice is appreciated. Also, what should I expect for normal wear?
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:46 PM   #310
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Originally Posted by ChrisUU View Post
Thanks. I'll be sure to carry those spares.

Does anybody have a good starting point for 17.5 blinky (gearing). I'll be running a 76 spur. I'm new to 4wd and and have no clue on gearing.

Thanks.
28ish start . Fdr , in 5.6 to 5.8 range
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:04 PM   #311
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28ish start . Fdr , in 5.6 to 5.8 range
Thank-you. I'll start there an adjust accordingly.
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:28 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janisdaubergs View Post
I'm keeping:
Belts;
Pulley set;
Front hinges;
Bellcrancks;
Pinions;
Spurs;
Also CVA dogbones is nice to have.
Front pivot and brace;
Front hinge pins aren't needed as a spare for the 2.0, haven't seen one break yet. If you get aluminum bell cranks, no need to carry spares also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maurorace74 View Post
We just purchased, built and tested the our new 22-4 2.0. We are new to the off-road 4x4 cars. We used the 50k weight diff fluid in both front and rear, used the 32.5 shock oil in all 4 shocks. Car seems to pull the front wheels on all accelerations and corners. After about 60 laps, we shredded the front drive belt.

Any idea what might have caused this issue to occur? Is it a kit issue or a build issue or setup issue?

Thx.
Slipper is too tight to break a front belt with that amount of track time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hnk34 View Post
Hi, im running a 7.5 and thought I adjusted the slipper correctly but have now shredded two front belts in 5 track days and two races ( about 20 packs). I will adjust the slipper once again per video set ups, but what should I expect?

I read post stating very minimal front belt breakage and wonder what's making my experience so different?

Any thoughts and advice is appreciated. Also, what should I expect for normal wear?
Slipper is too tight to break a front belt with that amount of track time.

I'll try to do a FB live this week and show how to set a slipper on the 22-4 2.0.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:17 AM   #313
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Would be very nice to see hot to adjust slipper for clay as for astro/carpet, as that differs, at least as starting points.
Drove it yesterday, car seemed bumpy - wasn't like glued to track, I guess I need to go for softer springs?
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:59 AM   #314
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What is the word on the new dog bones?
Mine is not breaking in at all.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:55 AM   #315
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What is the word on the new dog bones?
Mine is not breaking in at all.
They should be in late this week or early next week.
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