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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-07-2016, 07:49 AM   #286
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Slashn-- There are lots of little things on the 2.0. Some are things we have been doing for years like running shorty without a little grinding. Others are help with maintence like splitting up the covers like many asked for for quite a long time. Other things like the gear diffs are all new and complete new designs that people seem to really like and were asking for.

Anything that really makes the car a ton faster then the 1.0. little things but the car delivers many of the things people asked for in when the 1.0 came out. The 22-4 is a very capable car and has and will compete with the best cars on the market. The 2.0 was not a full redesign it was giving the customer what they asked for. Making an already awesome care that much easier to work on and more durable.
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:23 AM   #287
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On the flip side, there is a certainly a good chance a number of 22-4 1.0 cars out there (by drivers in the know that keep up with the trends) that have been already updated to near 22-4 2.0 specs, but not limited to (i.e. 22 rear end conversion, optional rear camber block, sway bars, shorty chassis with cut-out (that the 22-4 2.0 does not offer currently), etc, and a number of other updates such as top & bottom + front chassis cover) among others that I may have left out.

In that case I can see how the 22-4 1.0 & 22-4 2.0 would be similar in handling for comparison purpose, since basically the near same car, with the exception of gear diffs being one of the major differences between those two cars that would be ideal under different track conditions.
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:54 PM   #288
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I ran my one day old 22-4 2.0 last night and noticed it seemed to get 'stuck' in slow corners, like it hit a snag in the drivetrain. I thought it was a bad sensor wire. Turns out the 3mm drive pin in the rear dog bone had come loose and was eating it's way through the vertical ball stud....sad face.

I CA'd the pin but I have my doubts it will stay put. I guess I'll be calling Horizon in the morning.

Otherwise the buggy is a beast. Super durable and whisper quiet.

JC wheels fit fine up front, but the rears which are JC B4/TLR, have too deep of a concave face and the 4mm locknut bottoms out about 1mm before securing the wheel, so for now I will run some 1mm washers, but I see new wider aluminum rear hexes in my future....or TLR wheels.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:57 PM   #289
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I had THE SAME thing happen to my drive pin tonight. Didn't even get one full pack through the new build Heard a odd clicking noise coming from my car, pulled it off and found the same pin coming out of the bone chewing a groove through my vertical ball stud mount. Anyone know of another drive shaft that can be used? Was wondering if I can use the 67mm 3.0 drive shaft with the 1mm spacer?
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:17 AM   #290
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the pin will come out if the parts are not locktighted properly...meaning, you have to clean the metal parts with motor spray and tighten the setscrew down properly..
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:49 AM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
the pin will come out if the parts are not locktighted properly...meaning, you have to clean the metal parts with motor spray and tighten the setscrew down properly..
You've misunderstood the problem.

Its not the outdrive, its the dog bone itself. The 3mm pin is a press fit into the bone, its done at the factory, and has come loose. I'd post a pic but I've CA'd mine back in, in hopes it holds for practice tonight.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:00 AM   #292
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
You've misunderstood the problem.

Its not the outdrive, its the dog bone itself. The 3mm pin is a press fit into the bone, its done at the factory, and has come loose. I'd post a pic but I've CA'd mine back in, in hopes it holds for practice tonight.

Exactly
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:15 PM   #293
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well yes, that is a different problem...sorry
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:40 AM   #294
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Any updates on replacement rear axles? I called horizon and the guy I talked to was clueless on the issue.
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:01 AM   #295
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Originally Posted by GettinLapped View Post
Any updates on replacement rear axles? I called horizon and the guy I talked to was clueless on the issue.
It's not the axle, the bones are bad. You can use the 22 3.0 67mm bone with the 1mm spacer.
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:12 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulous View Post
It's not the axle, the bones are bad. You can use the 22 3.0 67mm bone with the 1mm spacer.
Ya whoops sorry driveshaft is what I meant. I ordered a spare set of 67mm for my 3.0 so least I have that option for now.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:30 AM   #297
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So how many out there are having the pin come out of the bone, I have my car built and ready to go but have not hit the track yet as I would just prefer to wait for the new bones(don't need them chewing up the vertical stud mount).

Also, I used the 2mm and 1mm spacers in the front shocks for down limit travel as the instructions call for, but the front arms seem almost flat, is this right or are you guys using less spacers?

Thanks
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:13 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
So how many out there are having the pin come out of the bone, I have my car built and ready to go but have not hit the track yet as I would just prefer to wait for the new bones(don't need them chewing up the vertical stud mount).

Also, I used the 2mm and 1mm spacers in the front shocks for down limit travel as the instructions call for, but the front arms seem almost flat, is this right or are you guys using less spacers?

Thanks
I haven't driven mine yet but I wouldn't worry about the droop. I had a d413 with crazy droop and I ended up taking most of it out. Look at the b44 that has no droop practically and how good that car still is today. From what I seen in the track this car is dialed out of the box. I haven't heard of the pin issue myself from any locals.
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:01 PM   #299
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I also still have that "stuck" issue when going through corners and its weird because it doesn't happen every lap and it seems to depend on the compression of the shock when turning.

I've only heard good things with Horizon taking care of these issues so make sure you give them a chance to get you fixed up. I've been out of town for a couple of weeks but will be calling Horizon tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:17 PM   #300
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Originally Posted by jbrook View Post
I also still have that "stuck" issue when going through corners and its weird because it doesn't happen every lap and it seems to depend on the compression of the shock when turning.

I've only heard good things with Horizon taking care of these issues so make sure you give them a chance to get you fixed up. I've been out of town for a couple of weeks but will be calling Horizon tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
"Stuck issue"?
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