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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-25-2016, 07:29 AM   #241
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Anyone have experience with TLR and Associated Diff Fluid. Does 30k TLR & 30K ASC fluid have the same viscosity? If not, which one runs thicker/thinner? Reason Im asking is I'd prefer to use ASC since they come in nice containers. TLR has those silly squeeze tubes that look like they would make a mess and not fit in the container I use to store my fluids.
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:30 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
this doesnt help me today...lol...

when will this oil be available??
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:27 AM   #243
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I just ordered a 22 4 2.0. When the new drive shafts become available how do we go about getting replacements?

Thanks
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Old 06-25-2016, 12:08 PM   #244
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Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I just ordered a 22 4 2.0. When the new drive shafts become available how do we go about getting replacements?

Thanks
by the time you wait for the replacement parts the drive shaft in the kit will have loosen up! in my kit one was perfect and other one tight but after few packs he's ok!..but i understand your thought..ill ask for them too..we will have to call or email horizon i think and maybe with proof of purchase.
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Old 06-25-2016, 07:46 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Anyone have experience with TLR and Associated Diff Fluid. Does 30k TLR & 30K ASC fluid have the same viscosity? If not, which one runs thicker/thinner? Reason Im asking is I'd prefer to use ASC since they come in nice containers. TLR has those silly squeeze tubes that look like they would make a mess and not fit in the container I use to store my fluids.
I would also like to know this, I already have some AE diff fluids for my ebuggy since that's what the LHS has on the shelf in any weight.

I have 50k stock fluid in my diffs now, but next rebuild I'll try the 60k AE and report back.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:35 PM   #246
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Rear optional alum. hex, do I need the 22 or 22-4 rear hex? P/N 332010 or 2930?
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:54 PM   #247
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22 2.0
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Old 06-26-2016, 07:04 PM   #248
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22 2.0

Thank you.
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:07 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Anyone have experience with TLR and Associated Diff Fluid. Does 30k TLR & 30K ASC fluid have the same viscosity? If not, which one runs thicker/thinner? Reason Im asking is I'd prefer to use ASC since they come in nice containers. TLR has those silly squeeze tubes that look like they would make a mess and not fit in the container I use to store my fluids.
The squeeze tubes actually work awesome, and never leak. I fit 2ea into the tubes I use for my shock oil bottle = dialed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
this doesnt help me today...lol...

when will this oil be available??
Many of those are available today. 40/60/80/100 are coming in mid July it looks like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I just ordered a 22 4 2.0. When the new drive shafts become available how do we go about getting replacements?

Thanks
Call Horizon Hobby Product Support, but wait until the parts are available.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:53 AM   #250
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I'm having LiPo issue in my 2.0, LRP Flow works team esc and LRP x20 6.5t motor. Using the stock spur and recommended pinion. LRP CCL shorty, 4500mah battery. Temps are warm, but not unreasonable for the 90deg outside air temp right now. I can't make out 10 min mains, I come about 40 seconds short and hit LVC.

Suggestions?
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:01 PM   #251
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I'm having LiPo issue in my 2.0, LRP Flow works team esc and LRP x20 6.5t motor. Using the stock spur and recommended pinion. LRP CCL shorty, 4500mah battery. Temps are warm, but not unreasonable for the 90deg outside air temp right now. I can't make out 10 min mains, I come about 40 seconds short and hit LVC.

Suggestions?
I know the LRP stuff is more aggressive, but I would think you should still be able to make 10 minutes...
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:45 PM   #252
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What is the LVC setting? I run Tekin stuff and run a 6.5 as well and no issues going 10+ with a 4500 battery.

How old is the battery?
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:55 PM   #253
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Its the stock 2s LVC setting. Batteries were new when I built the car..

Some other around here using same motor/esc setup and not having issues. I'll check on another charger and be sure its fully peaking and maybe edit my LVC setting so I can get a little more use.

confused as all get out
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:49 PM   #254
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I race at OCRC( hard pack clay, medium to high bite ), how do you think the box stock setup would work with a 7.5 and dirt webs all around.

thanks
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:44 AM   #255
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Hey Frank, any eta on TLR331018?
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