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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-13-2016, 08:28 PM   #181
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the ball cups keep on popping off the studs when I try to adjust the turnbuckles, anyone else have this problem?
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:38 PM   #182
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the ball cups keep on popping off the studs when I try to adjust the turnbuckles, anyone else have this problem?
Probably just like most other 1/10th scale cars out there. A lil black grease and work them in and out several times, loosen right up as the turnbuckle cuts threads into the ball cup.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:38 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Driveshaft Update - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
Just picked up a kit from LA Parts house that has the issue. Also some ball cups are loose, like I can flick them off the ball stud real easy. Not a big deal, just a heads up.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:33 AM   #184
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Use the old XXX short ball cups (LOSA1615), they are tighter and a bit stronger.
Thanks for the info, I'm still trying to figure out why it's happening
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:53 AM   #185
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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
the ball cups keep on popping off the studs when I try to adjust the turnbuckles, anyone else have this problem?
I use a drill to break my turnbuckles in. I can't remember which TLR driver I saw do this, but it works great. I put some black grease in the ball cup, and I run the turnbuckle in/out for a minute or so. You have to work one at a time, but it is worth it in the end.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:59 AM   #186
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Here is what I stared with


And ended up with link length is 78.5mm
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:57 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
the ball cups keep on popping off the studs when I try to adjust the turnbuckles, anyone else have this problem?
If you use black grease (shown in manual), then thread them all the way to the shank and back them out to the proper setting, you won't have the issue.

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First night out with the car, car is running good, the only problem I'm having is that with 83.5 mm servo link length it keeps on backing out from the servo side. not sure how to fix it
We've not heard or seen the before
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:10 AM   #188
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If you use black grease (shown in manual), then thread them all the way to the shank and back them out to the proper setting, you won't have the issue.



We've not heard or seen the before
Yeah seems weird Frank, I even bought a new link and ball cups and still happened, can I just run the shorter link like in The pic? Will it effect the car handling?
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:17 AM   #189
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
First night out with the car, car is running good, the only problem I'm having is that with 83.5 mm servo link length it keeps on backing out from the servo side. not sure how to fix it
I've actually had the same thing happen twice, both times were in very light crashes. Never had it happen with the 1.0 car at all, first order of business is to at least try replacing the plastic link that goes onto the A/B horn ball stud, maybe with the alternate ones suggested in this thread if the LHS happens to have some!
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:08 AM   #190
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Yeah seems weird Frank, I even bought a new link and ball cups and still happened, can I just run the shorter link like in The pic? Will it effect the car handling?
Shouldn't affect the handling if your radio is setup properly.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:26 AM   #191
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Almost done with the build very nice car. The diffs are pretty amazing. Frank was there ever a consideration to use a center diff vs. the slipper?
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:59 AM   #192
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Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn?
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:30 PM   #193
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Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:08 AM   #194
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The 22-4 was my favorite RC anything of all time, and I gotta say the new car has been even better! Couple updates since last time...

Won the maiden club race this last Friday, took 3rd behind Fabulous and another very fast guy on our monthly race on Saturday. I have only won a couple of club races before, so I can't ask for much more!

Continued to tune and practice this week, I attached a PDF of the setup I'm at for anyone that's interested (read my earlier post about impressions of stock setup). it uses only one part that isn't in the kit (red low frequency rear springs) and it uses the kit's diff config. Should be pretty easy to switch to for anyone that built the kit to stock specs.

The highlight of practice this week was throwing down a 15.9, in two months of our current layout the fastest a 13.5 4WD has hot-lapped in a race is 16.0... I screamed like a teenage girl when the scoring software said "fifteen point..." and I think Kraig was there to hear it

I also have one more build tip -- I have now seen 3 or 4 different experienced builders who had their outdrive set screws come loose on their first run, I have now had 2 of them come loose myself. There are two outcomes to that set screw coming loose -- either the outdrive stays on the shaft, but loose, and you have a 3WD car... or the outdrive flies off completely and you end up looking for it on the track. While it is only one set screw, you will have to take the diff out to get the outdrive properly reattached.

So, the lesson is to be liberal on the loctite on your outdrive set screws, and be sure to really tighten them firmly. I believe this is step B-1 in the build.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 22-4 2.0 Trackside 6-8-2016.pdf (331.1 KB, 103 views)
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:02 AM   #195
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The highlight of practice this week was throwing down a 15.9, in two months of our current layout the fastest a 13.5 4WD has hot-lapped in a race is 16.0... I screamed like a teenage girl when the scoring software said "fifteen point..." and I think Kraig was there to hear it
I thought someone stepped on a pig* when I heard that.

No pigs were harmed during the display of enthusiasm.
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