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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-03-2016, 11:26 PM   #121
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I'm totally agreed with you about the performance of a brand new car
Plus I doesn't notice any shape differences between 1.0 and 2.0
Only a new trans. to allow more tork and brake on super high grip.
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Old 06-04-2016, 10:18 AM   #122
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i went ahead and ordered the new car....mainly due to the gear diffs, however, i am not selling my old car, as buying the ball diffs seperatly will be about the same as i can sell my 1.0 for...

this way ill get a new kit, and have some spares...
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:01 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
i went ahead and ordered the new car....mainly due to the gear diffs, however, i am not selling my old car, as buying the ball diffs seperatly will be about the same as i can sell my 1.0 for...

this way ill get a new kit, and have some spares...
+1
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:06 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
i went ahead and ordered the new car....mainly due to the gear diffs, however, i am not selling my old car, as buying the ball diffs seperatly will be about the same as i can sell my 1.0 for...

this way ill get a new kit, and have some spares...
I am selling my old roller to another local so that we have another guy running 13.5 4WD every week, but this is probably the wiser thing to do. A pair of ball diffs and a full set of spare shocks would cost about the same as I'm selling the 1.0 roller for!
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:16 PM   #125
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How much of that could be attributed to the car being completely fresh and new? So often a new car works better simply because it's in brand new condition.
I think it has to do with the fact that the gear diffs allow it to dig in and take off even quicker because there is no diff slippage at all! I think that the achilles heal could just be durability but that will have to be determined over time. None of us drive as clean as the pros so there crashes are just screw ups and our are more like HOLY SH!T did you see that kinda crashes! LOL!
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:34 AM   #126
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Mine should arrive at the LHS today, we will see if I can get it on the track tonight!
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:49 PM   #127
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Any chance we could get Jr Mitch setup from running on carpet?
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:01 AM   #128
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Any chance we could get Jr Mitch setup from running on carpet?
You could ask him on facebook, he is really active on there!
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:45 AM   #129
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Should I install a 79t spur on the new build if I'm running 13.5?
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:51 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
Should I install a 79t spur on the new build if I'm running 13.5?
Put a 76 in
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:37 AM   #131
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Started the build last night, so far going smooth. Up to bag c. When building the slipper nothing mentioned on which side of washer (smooth or rough) to use in between ring with balls. Also I'm assuming no need to put any type of grease either.
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:52 AM   #132
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Started the build last night, so far going smooth. Up to bag c. When building the slipper nothing mentioned on which side of washer (smooth or rough) to use in between ring with balls. Also I'm assuming no need to put any type of grease either.
No grease needed. The side doesn't matter much either, but I use the smoother side against the balls.
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:58 AM   #133
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No grease needed. The side doesn't matter much either, but I use the smoother side against the balls.
Sooo kinky sounding
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:42 PM   #134
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Has anyone else had trouble with the CVD barrel cross pin hole being not perpendicular to the barrel axis? When I tighten the CVD set screw I can see the cross pin setting at an angle which then locks up the CVD completely. I tried deburring the CVD ball end and cross pin slots but it made no difference.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:59 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by gte024h View Post
Has anyone else had trouble with the CVD barrel cross pin hole being not perpendicular to the barrel axis? When I tighten the CVD set screw I can see the cross pin setting at an angle which then locks up the CVD completely. I tried deburring the CVD ball end and cross pin slots but it made no difference.
I had the same issue no fix yet. Please post solution if you find one
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