TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#1277
look at the steering arm on the opposite end of steering rod, not servo horn end but other end.
The plastic square tip on top of that post where that arm pushes on can break but is still held on with the screw through it,
that will move back and forth and be held in last position that the servo pushes it.
Thinking this cuz you said you keep having to adjust the steering sub trim
Chr1s mentioned this post and arm briefly in reply above too
The plastic square tip on top of that post where that arm pushes on can break but is still held on with the screw through it,
that will move back and forth and be held in last position that the servo pushes it.
Thinking this cuz you said you keep having to adjust the steering sub trim
Chr1s mentioned this post and arm briefly in reply above too
#1279
#1281
Kit setting is B back. So you're already at kit setting. I'm running mine looser than kit. Use whatever keeps the belt tight enough to not slip.
#1283
Tech Addict
Gonna check all these tonight . I already checked the pivot so I can rule that out . Thank you for your time bud .
#1284
Tech Addict
Speaking of the front pivot, not only if its cracked but also when it develops a ton of slop where the hinge pins pass through can cause unpredictable steering. If you put a drop of CA on the tip of a hex wrench and wipe it on the inside of the pivot holes it will remove all slop and bring it back to new, if its cracked then time to replace. I did this on the rear arms and this removes all the slop.
#1285
Tech Addict
look at the steering arm on the opposite end of steering rod, not servo horn end but other end.
The plastic square tip on top of that post where that arm pushes on can break but is still held on with the screw through it,
that will move back and forth and be held in last position that the servo pushes it.
Thinking this cuz you said you keep having to adjust the steering sub trim
Chr1s mentioned this post and arm briefly in reply above too
The plastic square tip on top of that post where that arm pushes on can break but is still held on with the screw through it,
that will move back and forth and be held in last position that the servo pushes it.
Thinking this cuz you said you keep having to adjust the steering sub trim
Chr1s mentioned this post and arm briefly in reply above too
#1286
#1287
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Sorry if this has been covered; but I just got a spanking deal on a 22-4 1.0 with tons of goodies; including an rc shox center diff kit. My question is will it work on the 2.0? I already have the 2.0 and bought the 1.0 for my father as a gift for re-entry into the hobby. Thanks for any and all help!
#1289
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
This past weekend I had the two bearings on the slipper shaft go bad. I started hearing a slight ticking when it came off the track after practice. I had a hard time hearing where the clicking was coming from, so I had the entire drive train broken down to diagnose. When the belt covers were off, the clicking went away. I eventually figured out that when I bolted the front belt cover down, the clicking came back. It turns out that the pressure of the front belt cover on the (bad) bearings as they rested in their channels, caused the ticking. With that being said, I want to keep some spare bearings (LOSA6093) in my parts bin. $7 for two bearings from TLR seems a bit high. Will these ProTek Bearings work? They are both 3/16 x 3/8, but I just want to be sure there isn't something slightly different with the TLR part number.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...tk-10035/p5730
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...tk-10035/p5730