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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-27-2016, 08:02 AM   #106
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Can't wait to get my hands on this. I LOVE my current 22/4 and how this is even better is gonna be almost unbelievable!

Curious question for Frank! I know that I am probably gonna jinx my current ride but what to you think is the issue with the front belt breaking on the 22/4? I personally haven't had any breaks yet and my car is still good to go it seems. Could the breaking been the result of landing on power on the front and the stress that could cause with an improperly adjusted Slipper? Maybe this is something that can't really be answered. Anyway, great job on the 2.0!
They only break once they've skipped enough to wear through part of the belt. We saw this mostly with slippers that were set too tight, or with the original belt tunnels. The + belt tunnel fixed a lot of that issue. The 2.0 tunnels are also +.
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:04 AM   #107
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Frank can you tell me the width of the drive belt?
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:18 AM   #108
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Frank can you tell me the width of the drive belt?
I don't have one in front of me ATM. It is the same as the 1.0 belts.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:09 AM   #109
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Any news on arrival of kits? Money in hand!!!!

edit never mind, just saw the live Facebook broadcast.
they are shipping this week
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:28 PM   #110
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Are these really shipping this week???? Holy crap this hobby is going to leave me BROKE! I just invested in a M12s and now this may be coming in the next couple weeks! Decisions, Decisions!
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:28 AM   #111
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It's the 31st. Can I get my car now? Lol
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:08 AM   #112
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shop said eta that hozion get them today?
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:52 PM   #113
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Looks like the Eta is now June 7th.
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:55 PM   #114
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Last info I have see these shipping from Horizon on Thursday.
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:08 PM   #115
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i owe 120 ill pay it off on pay day dip in to the mower found
no eta on the losi dint say a date and told me they will give a date later to day
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:01 AM   #116
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What aftermarket parts are the same and will transfer over?
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:48 AM   #117
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After looking at one at jcon it seems like quite a lot will carry over. Only stuff that wont are belt tunnels and the chassis. I dont think the mip cvds will carry over either.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:27 AM   #118
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After looking at one at jcon it seems like quite a lot will carry over. Only stuff that wont are belt tunnels and the chassis. I dont think the mip cvds will carry over either.
Yeah it's pretty much the same car as the original which is why there's no reason for me to buy this
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:33 PM   #119
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Yeah it's pretty much the same car as the original which is why there's no reason for me to buy this
I was in the same boat as you but I have heard people sayin that have seen these in person is that it is hooks up even better than the 224 1.0. Hard to believe that but if its true then just gotta get one! I LOVE my 1.0 but if this is even better then why not?
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:44 PM   #120
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I have heard people sayin that have seen these in person is that it is hooks up even better than the 224 1.0. Hard to believe )
How much of that could be attributed to the car being completely fresh and new? So often a new car works better simply because it's in brand new condition.
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