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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-28-2017, 08:16 AM   #1126
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Are the 22-4 1.0 & 2.0 bodies interchangeable????
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:02 AM   #1127
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Are the 22-4 1.0 & 2.0 bodies interchangeable????
Yes they are. Actually, there is technically no 22-4 2.0 body, as the body that comes with the 2.0 was originally released as an option for the 1.0. So any body that says it fits any version of the 22-4 will fit all 22-4's.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:33 AM   #1128
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Anyone Know why there are 2 diff springs in the clicker kit, silver or black??? and where does the red collar go??
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:19 AM   #1129
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got it sorted out I think LOL.. red collar must be if you want to lock it down completely, silver spring felt stiffer so i went with that
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:32 AM   #1130
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Just bought another 22-4 2.0. I sold my last one not because it didn't fit me, but a few issues I was having. Biggest thing for me is the car just seems like it's stuck in corner. Seems like I have to really be on throttle. I need the car to free roll more off power. Suggestions? I currently have a xray xb4 16. Love the car but my local track has next to nothing as far as parts support and they have tons have tlr support
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:07 PM   #1131
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Just bought another 22-4 2.0. I sold my last one not because it didn't fit me, but a few issues I was having. Biggest thing for me is the car just seems like it's stuck in corner. Seems like I have to really be on throttle. I need the car to free roll more off power. Suggestions? I currently have a xray xb4 16. Love the car but my local track has next to nothing as far as parts support and they have tons have tlr support
Were you running the rear shocks on the front or back of the rear arm?
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:10 PM   #1132
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Just bought another 22-4 2.0. I sold my last one not because it didn't fit me, but a few issues I was having. Biggest thing for me is the car just seems like it's stuck in corner. Seems like I have to really be on throttle. I need the car to free roll more off power. Suggestions? I currently have a xray xb4 16. Love the car but my local track has next to nothing as far as parts support and they have tons have tlr support
Try running a clicker. It will free roll more off power in corners
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:12 PM   #1133
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Just bought another 22-4 2.0. I sold my last one not because it didn't fit me, but a few issues I was having. Biggest thing for me is the car just seems like it's stuck in corner. Seems like I have to really be on throttle. I need the car to free roll more off power. Suggestions? I currently have a xray xb4 16. Love the car but my local track has next to nothing as far as parts support and they have tons have tlr support
Try running a clicker. It will free roll more off power in corners. Yiu have to use your brake though like running a 2wd
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:50 PM   #1134
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Were you running the rear shocks on the front or back of the rear arm?
On the back of the rear arm. I'm building a new kit now. What is the part number to the associated parts to run the shocks on the front of the arm
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Old 01-29-2017, 01:56 PM   #1135
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On the back of the rear arm. I'm building a new kit now. What is the part number to the associated parts to run the shocks on the front of the arm
I build both of my kits with the rear arms swapped and shocks mounted to the front of the arms, so I have no experience with running the shocks on the rear of the arms. I had many a 22-4 owner tell me to do that. With that being said, my 22-4 2.0 goes through turns very well. There are no AE parts needed to run the shocks on the front of the arms. Just flip the Arms Right on Left and Left on Right and then drill a small hole in each arm so that you can mount the sway bars. I can post a picture of mine if you'd like.
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:47 PM   #1136
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I build both of my kits with the rear arms swapped and shocks mounted to the front of the arms, so I have no experience with running the shocks on the rear of the arms. I had many a 22-4 owner tell me to do that. With that being said, my 22-4 2.0 goes through turns very well. There are no AE parts needed to run the shocks on the front of the arms. Just flip the Arms Right on Left and Left on Right and then drill a small hole in each arm so that you can mount the sway bars. I can post a picture of mine if you'd like.
Yeah that would be great. But I think mine came with updated arms, I have another hole it looks for the sway bar. But the problem is gonna be the shock angle it looks like
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:59 PM   #1137
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Can you explain the "clicker"? I have heard it mentioned that it came with the 1.0 but not the 2.0. What is it and is it advantageous for a new 2.0 owner to get one?
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:31 PM   #1138
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got it sorted out I think LOL.. red collar must be if you want to lock it down completely, silver spring felt stiffer so i went with that
there ya go. BTW.. stock up on those FHS M3 x 25mm ... rear shock towers are hard to break but the screw that holds them will bend. Just replaced 2 of these screws while I was changing diff fluid in my rear diff gear.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:32 PM   #1139
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Can you explain the "clicker"? I have heard it mentioned that it came with the 1.0 but not the 2.0. What is it and is it advantageous for a new 2.0 owner to get one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwOdJmdzJvk&t=17s
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Old 01-29-2017, 11:02 PM   #1140
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Yeah that would be great. But I think mine came with updated arms, I have another hole it looks for the sway bar. But the problem is gonna be the shock angle it looks like
I put a 1mm shim between the stock tower and the shock mount and the spring barely hits the turnbuckle.
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