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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-26-2017, 12:01 PM   #1111
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In 1/10, the smaller the turn motor, the more power it makes (i.e. 6.5T > 7.5t). Most people run a 6.5t or 7.5t motor when running in Mod 4wd. If you are new to 1/10, I'd probably recommend the 7.5t motor which will be easier to drive while you are learning.

You will want to get a 2S Shorty lipo. Anywhere from 50c to 100c and 5000 mAh (give or take a few hundre mAh) is about right. Currently I'm running a 65C 5000 mAh ProMatch shorty. The 22-4 2.0 is made for a Shorty Lipo config.

I run the kit set-up on the 22-4 2.0 and its excellent. The only mod I did was to swap the rear arms (Left to Right and vice/versa) and mount the shocks in front of the tower. You will have to drill a hole on front of each arm once they are swapped to accomodate the sway bar mount.
So what's the deal with 13.5 motors people are talking about? Also what ESC and Savox are people running?
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:44 PM   #1112
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So what's the deal with 13.5 motors people are talking about?
13.5 4wd is a popular class at many tracks.
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:01 PM   #1113
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So what's the deal with 13.5 motors people are talking about? Also what ESC and Savox are people running?
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13.5 4wd is a popular class at many tracks.
I was on the fence at first.
It's a blast!
Full punch, awesome handling, plenty fast.

We call the class "The Truth" here at OCRC.

Didn't even open up my car to change the 84 spur.
I'm running 84/27 indoors and it's good to go
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:27 PM   #1114
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Our track here is hot Florida outdoor, bumpy, hard red clay with some dusting around. More of an 1/8 scale track I'd say.

I just want to put a good motor/esc combo in it that I'll enjoy. But it would be nice if it fit into a race class or two for when we officially race them. I just have zero knowledge of the 1/10 buggy motors.
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:31 PM   #1115
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Joe, Im in Clearwater & race around florida.. I love my Hobbywing 120Amp V2.1 several of my friends run the newer V3 version, its a great speedo. If you are ever going to run the supercup I would get a 13.5t as that class dos well & the motor is fun but if you want more go with a 10.5 it should be plenty.. Hit me up anytime
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:51 PM   #1116
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Thanks. I live about two miles from Lake Park track which is where my son and I go a lot.

Which motor for that track do you think? I will hit other local tracks every now and then but Lake Park is where we are 80% of the time.
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Old 01-27-2017, 05:38 AM   #1117
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Phllip, the new gear diffs are plastic??
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Old 01-27-2017, 05:41 AM   #1118
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Thanks, Happy to be back...Are there any spares or anything you recommend to pick up right away???? Im going to be running it in 13.5 class
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Front pivot, front belt (dont run slipper too tight) and a set of arms, thats all u need to start with.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:29 AM   #1119
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Thanx..
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:24 AM   #1120
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What diff weights combo are people running right now for indoor clay tracks? Stock? 50K front and rear?
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:35 AM   #1121
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how does the different diff oil weight affect steering and traction, if anyone can elaborate for me.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:35 AM   #1122
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not the sun gear diff ...sorry but the gear pulley....not sure, what it's made of. But it's definetly not metal.

http://www.insidelinerc.com/wp-conte...Gear-Diffs.jpe
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:38 AM   #1123
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What diff weights combo are people running right now for indoor clay tracks? Stock? 50K front and rear?
Some guys run 50/50, Dakotah likes 60f, 40r. I like 40f and 50 or 60r.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:07 PM   #1124
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Frank, how does the different diff oil weight affect steering and traction?
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Old 01-27-2017, 11:35 PM   #1125
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Some guys run 50/50, Dakotah likes 60f, 40r. I like 40f and 50 or 60r.
Would this be any different when running a 13.5 vs a mod motor?
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