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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-25-2017, 04:09 AM   #1096
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We've always ran out belt tension to kit setting without issues and run a 5.5 motor. Our 1.0 car was ran for a year on kit belts and only thing we ever did was have a spare diff for front and rear to swap out when the diffs in the car needed service.
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Old 01-25-2017, 08:14 AM   #1097
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We've always ran out belt tension to kit setting without issues and run a 5.5 motor. Our 1.0 car was ran for a year on kit belts and only thing we ever did was have a spare diff for front and rear to swap out when the diffs in the car needed service.
thank you for the reply! however i have to use both hands on the outdrives to get the the car to move ive double checked everything at least 3xs and coming up with the same result was yours like this?
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Old 01-25-2017, 10:13 AM   #1098
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First time breaking a front belt, how do you prevent that from happening again? Or at least minimize the chances of breaking it.
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Old 01-25-2017, 11:33 AM   #1099
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First time breaking a front belt, how do you prevent that from happening again? Or at least minimize the chances of breaking it.
Setting the slipper properly is the key. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR9_RfQwVTY
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Old 01-25-2017, 09:12 PM   #1100
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thank you for the reply! however i have to use both hands on the outdrives to get the the car to move ive double checked everything at least 3xs and coming up with the same result was yours like this?
Because of the diff's you will need to turn both out drives at the same time. It's normal.
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Old 01-25-2017, 10:31 PM   #1101
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So I'm about to take the 1/10 buggy plunge for the first time and get a 22-4 2.0. I have a 8ight e EU 2.0 and a 8ight e 3.0 that my son and I drive at the local track for fun...but we plan on officially racing soon. My plan is to sell the 8ight 2.0, keep the 8ight 3.0 and get a 22-4 2.0. So we will have a 1/8 and a 1/10 buggy.

But having never built a 1/10 buggy what are the motor ratings all about and what do you recommend I put in it? Local track is Florida hot outdoor hard pack red clay with dusty on top and in corners...pretty bumpy with some big jumps as well. My 8ights have Tekin 1900 gen 2 and rx8 gen 2 with 4s batteries and Savox. But this 1/10 is all new to me. What's an equivalent electronics setup and gearing for the 22-4? Battery sizes? Any particular upgrade parts I should get ahead of time to install right away? Shock oils/springs, diff fluids for this kind of track I should use? And any deviation from the stock setup for this track type?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to do it right the first time and have decent baseline setup for my track.

Thanks for any help you guys can throw my way!
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:13 AM   #1102
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Because of the diff's you will need to turn both out drives at the same time. It's normal.
thank you for the help i appreciate it
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Old 01-26-2017, 08:32 AM   #1103
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Thank you Casper & Frank Root, I have to be Honest, have always been a AE guy, I ran the xx-4 back in the day & LOVED the car especially the clicker because it worked with my driving style but when the BJ4 first came out & Jconcepts is a local company I went that route but was never as consistent with that car. After reading through here & getting fast response with good information I decided to get a New 22-4 2.0 kit, came across a Awesome deal on a New car built, never ran with a new esc & 13.5t motor for 450 & you guys helped me Make up my mind. Car is on the Way.. THANKS Again...
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:28 AM   #1104
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Welcome back!
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:30 AM   #1105
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Thanks, Happy to be back...Are there any spares or anything you recommend to pick up right away???? Im going to be running it in 13.5 class
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:34 AM   #1106
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Thanks, Happy to be back...Are there any spares or anything you recommend to pick up right away???? Im going to be running it in 13.5 class
front pivot , belts, front cvd bones , front and rear arms, & pulleys and gears

for tuning : machined pistons, shock springs, diff fluid

cracked my rear differential gear.... really weird. Was racing last night and car just went sluggish. Opened the the car up and there it was ... the plastic differential gear was cracked and falling apart. Really odd, got this buggy 2nd hand though. Might consider rebuilding and changing all the gears, pulleys and belts... while I'm in there.. I'll just do both front and rear diff gear assembly. What do you guys use to clean the insides of the differential gear?
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:25 AM   #1107
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Phllip, the new gear diffs are plastic??
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:06 AM   #1108
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
Thank you Casper & Frank Root, I have to be Honest, have always been a AE guy, I ran the xx-4 back in the day & LOVED the car especially the clicker because it worked with my driving style but when the BJ4 first came out & Jconcepts is a local company I went that route but was never as consistent with that car. After reading through here & getting fast response with good information I decided to get a New 22-4 2.0 kit, came across a Awesome deal on a New car built, never ran with a new esc & 13.5t motor for 450 & you guys helped me Make up my mind. Car is on the Way.. THANKS Again...
Awesome, glad you got it coming!
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:16 AM   #1109
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Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
So I'm about to take the 1/10 buggy plunge for the first time and get a 22-4 2.0. I have a 8ight e EU 2.0 and a 8ight e 3.0 that my son and I drive at the local track for fun...but we plan on officially racing soon. My plan is to sell the 8ight 2.0, keep the 8ight 3.0 and get a 22-4 2.0. So we will have a 1/8 and a 1/10 buggy.

But having never built a 1/10 buggy what are the motor ratings all about and what do you recommend I put in it? Local track is Florida hot outdoor hard pack red clay with dusty on top and in corners...pretty bumpy with some big jumps as well. My 8ights have Tekin 1900 gen 2 and rx8 gen 2 with 4s batteries and Savox. But this 1/10 is all new to me. What's an equivalent electronics setup and gearing for the 22-4? Battery sizes? Any particular upgrade parts I should get ahead of time to install right away? Shock oils/springs, diff fluids for this kind of track I should use? And any deviation from the stock setup for this track type?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to do it right the first time and have decent baseline setup for my track.

Thanks for any help you guys can throw my way!
In 1/10, the smaller the turn motor, the more power it makes (i.e. 6.5T > 7.5t). Most people run a 6.5t or 7.5t motor when running in Mod 4wd. If you are new to 1/10, I'd probably recommend the 7.5t motor which will be easier to drive while you are learning.

You will want to get a 2S Shorty lipo. Anywhere from 50c to 100c and 5000 mAh (give or take a few hundre mAh) is about right. Currently I'm running a 65C 5000 mAh ProMatch shorty. The 22-4 2.0 is made for a Shorty Lipo config.

I run the kit set-up on the 22-4 2.0 and its excellent. The only mod I did was to swap the rear arms (Left to Right and vice/versa) and mount the shocks in front of the tower. You will have to drill a hole on front of each arm once they are swapped to accomodate the sway bar mount.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:37 AM   #1110
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I see the car comes with a 84 spur but manual calls for 78 for 13.5, can I just run a 29t pinion with the 84 to get the same final drive ratio as 78spur 27pinion? Is there really going to be any difference as long as the final drive is the same ??
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