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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-19-2017, 06:30 PM   #1066
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So im on the fence about getting one of these. Since you guys run these, how durable are they. Thanks
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:13 PM   #1067
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I love mine. I took second last night but got my clock cleaned by the guy that won. While I was trying desperately to get my lap back I swung a big sweeper too wide and hit the triple too wide as well. It caused me to hit the wall head on at full speed (while being airborne!). It made a horrific sound. The whole track went silent for a second until the marshal threw me back down and my car moved. I finished with nothing broken or bent. If you're worried about durability, don't, the car is plenty stout.
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:43 PM   #1068
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I love mine. I took second last night but got my clock cleaned by the guy that won. While I was trying desperately to get my lap back I swung a big sweeper too wide and hit the triple too wide as well. It caused me to hit the wall head on at full speed (while being airborne!). It made a horrific sound. The whole track went silent for a second until the marshal threw me back down and my car moved. I finished with nothing broken or bent. If you're worried about durability, don't, the car is plenty stout.

I want to pick one up for my "daughter" we don't have a 4wd buggy class (open to any vehicles for kids) But she really wants to drive a buggy, right now she is driving my dex210 or my B5m but having a hard time now that they made the track really tight and technical. I think she would have an easier time running 4wd (epa way down of course) I had a dex410 and that was really fast and I never broke anything other than a Bulkhead. But those dex410s are REALLY tight on space. So I was looking at this as an option. Looks easy to work on and electronic friendly as far as space.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:14 PM   #1069
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The 22-4 is NOT easy to work on, it's actually fairly complicated and kind of a PITA to be honest. That said, it is super easy to drive, and my 12 y.o. son took it out having never run and won the rookie race first time out.

Durability is solid, just get some aluminum horns and a spare pivot block or two, and you should be good.
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:50 AM   #1070
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Make sure local rules allow 4wd in rookie. Car is not THAT hard to work on. If you need to get to the spur that can be kind of tough but front and rear diffs are easy to get to. Buggy is quite durable and can take a beating but like anything if you try hard enough you will get something but they made the 1.0 which was one of the most durable 4wd buggies ever made stronger with the 2.0 so that is cool. Another option is 13.5 for motor. This 4wd buggy 13.5 class is starting to catch on and is a ton of fun.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:44 AM   #1071
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Make sure local rules allow 4wd in rookie. Car is not THAT hard to work on. If you need to get to the spur that can be kind of tough but front and rear diffs are easy to get to. Buggy is quite durable and can take a beating but like anything if you try hard enough you will get something but they made the 1.0 which was one of the most durable 4wd buggies ever made stronger with the 2.0 so that is cool. Another option is 13.5 for motor. This 4wd buggy 13.5 class is starting to catch on and is a ton of fun.
Rookies can run any vehicle. There are a couple of 4wd in there already. Good to hear that its durable. Gonna pull the trigger. Even I should be able to enjoy it for practice. Is 13.5 fast enough,and does it stay cool enough?
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:27 AM   #1072
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It's about the same speed as a fast 17.5 buggy. Basically stock 4wd. It's fun. I have not had heat issues with my Tekin 13.5 setup.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:29 AM   #1073
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Hard to blame the buggy, but I've broke 2 rear shock towers and a front arm. I didn't have anything break on my D413. With that being said, I'd still take my 22-4 any day over the HB.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:45 AM   #1074
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Arms are almost inevitable. She shouldn't need anything faster then 17.5 "speeds" so I'll throw in my trinity 13.5 and should be good. Thanks fellas. Now to purchase and begin the long process of the build. It will be my first build. I usually buy my rc's used.
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Old 01-20-2017, 11:08 AM   #1075
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Take your time and look close to each step. Getting the tunnels to the chassis can be a little tricky due to the number of screws and the view in the manual. Gear diffs there is a video from Frank Root on FB. Can't get the link at work but should be able to search for it pretty easy. Overall though it is a solid build and car goes together smoothly.
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:17 PM   #1076
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Is phend using the b5 ball cups here ? or do the V1 hubs allow you to have clearance to put the shocks on the front ?
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:36 PM   #1077
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Because he mounted the ball stud on the back of the older hubs it probably gave him clearance. You have to use the older 22-4 hexes and stuff. this
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:55 PM   #1078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czrlaker View Post
I want to pick one up for my "daughter" we don't have a 4wd buggy class (open to any vehicles for kids) But she really wants to drive a buggy, right now she is driving my dex210 or my B5m but having a hard time now that they made the track really tight and technical. I think she would have an easier time running 4wd (epa way down of course) I had a dex410 and that was really fast and I never broke anything other than a Bulkhead. But those dex410s are REALLY tight on space. So I was looking at this as an option. Looks easy to work on and electronic friendly as far as space.
I'm not 100% sure that I'd recommend the 22-4 2.0 for a kid. Its not terrible to work on and parts are actually very reasonably priced. I've been running 2 w/13.5s and they have been nearly 0 maintainence [apart from normal car care]. However, I would consider waiting for the new AE so that you could see which one would be easier to work on & maintain. I know that my 9yr old would annihilate my car pretty quick. No disrespect to TLR. I really like my 22-4 but I know Jr would hit everything on the track, including the marshals, and I'd have to fix his car all the time. If your girl is older and a somewhat skilled racer then this car would be a good choice. For my kid it wouldn't make a difference. I'd go with the most convenient.
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Old 01-20-2017, 01:19 PM   #1079
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same way I did mine. using stock TLR ball cups and all. Its close tolerance but does clear.
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Old 01-20-2017, 02:37 PM   #1080
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I'm not 100% sure that I'd recommend the 22-4 2.0 for a kid. Its not terrible to work on and parts are actually very reasonably priced. I've been running 2 w/13.5s and they have been nearly 0 maintainence [apart from normal car care]. However, I would consider waiting for the new AE so that you could see which one would be easier to work on & maintain. I know that my 9yr old would annihilate my car pretty quick. No disrespect to TLR. I really like my 22-4 but I know Jr would hit everything on the track, including the marshals, and I'd have to fix his car all the time. If your girl is older and a somewhat skilled racer then this car would be a good choice. For my kid it wouldn't make a difference. I'd go with the most convenient.
If I was handing a 4wd over to a younger child, I'd snag a used D413 and let them hit whatever they want to. That thing will stand up to abuse better than any wheeler I've seen. For adults, the 22-4 2.0 is the ticket.
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