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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-07-2017, 04:42 AM   #1036
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Just thought I'd share some photos of my 17.5 stock car. All ready for next weekends Yokomo Invitational in Melbourne. 1st major race meet since switching to TLR and Cant wait to see how it handles. All testing has been done on low bite dusty tracks (normal for an Australian track) and has been very promising. Have modified the battery strap slots by routing an extra one so it fits nicely with a LCG shorty pack.
Have also machined out the chassis similar to the shorty chassis with the 1.0. Managed to drop a whopping 25 degrees Celsius which has allowed me to up my gearing and advance the timing on the motor. Other mods as you can see is the shock forward on the rear tower and running the loosest belt settings possible through out the car. Can't wait for next weekend.
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Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-renderedcontent-e45f0489-6c0e-4a8e-992e-73bc5215de0c.jpg   Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-renderedcontent-7be72ab9-e44b-4692-ba47-8b9fcd6b42e1.jpg   Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-renderedcontent-4ea20ae5-b7da-4c61-a1fa-8e7f60c752aa.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:15 PM   #1037
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Are there any good threads or info on using the clicker? Settings, which spring, etc?

I understand the benefit on loose outdoor, and our indoor track is more dirt than clay with JConcepts Black or Proline M4 being popular. It's not so much loose low traction like outdoor as it is the ambient temps producing the effect. Just wondering if there might be info out there.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:23 AM   #1038
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Originally Posted by iDesign5 View Post
Are there any good threads or info on using the clicker? Settings, which spring, etc?

I understand the benefit on loose outdoor, and our indoor track is more dirt than clay with JConcepts Black or Proline M4 being popular. It's not so much loose low traction like outdoor as it is the ambient temps producing the effect. Just wondering if there might be info out there.
https://youtu.be/cwOdJmdzJvk
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:07 PM   #1039
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Originally Posted by offroader47 View Post
How does the flipped arms (shock in front) go on low-medium bite tracks?
Thanks
I prefer them on the front on our low-sometimes medium bite track..
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:04 AM   #1040
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I owned the 22-4 1.0 last year , and I loved the way the car actually drove , but it was the most unreliable car I owned. I replaced an arm or suspension bulkhead or both at least once a race day . Fast-forward to today , I just bought a 2.0 . I like the way they drive that much ! So , my question is , how many pivot braces and arms do I need to carry for the 2.0 ? and ... Do the left and right arms interchange on the front of the car yet without mods ?
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:31 AM   #1041
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I owned the 22-4 1.0 last year , and I loved the way the car actually drove , but it was the most unreliable car I owned. I replaced an arm or suspension bulkhead or both at least once a race day . Fast-forward to today , I just bought a 2.0 . I like the way they drive that much ! So , my question is , how many pivot braces and arms do I need to carry for the 2.0 ? and ... Do the left and right arms interchange on the front of the car yet without mods ?
The arms are specific to a side, but can go back and forth easily. Now, it is pretty hard to break a front arm, but you'll want to carry a couple of pivots with you.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:41 PM   #1042
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Originally Posted by froggie22 View Post
I prefer them on the front on our low-sometimes medium bite track..
Thanks.
I put the shocks on the front anyway and went for a practice the other day and found the shocks on the front of the arm has better steering and corners better and quicker on a low grip track.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:49 AM   #1043
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
I owned the 22-4 1.0 last year , and I loved the way the car actually drove , but it was the most unreliable car I owned. I replaced an arm or suspension bulkhead or both at least once a race day . Fast-forward to today , I just bought a 2.0 . I like the way they drive that much ! So , my question is , how many pivot braces and arms do I need to carry for the 2.0 ? and ... Do the left and right arms interchange on the front of the car yet without mods ?
Since the 22-4 2.0 came out I have broken 1 rear arm and 1 pivot racing 2-3 times a week with a 13.5. Both of my cars have been very reliable. One of them is still box stock with no aluminum upgrades. The box setup works almost everywhere. Because of problems that I've had in the past I'm a total TLR hater but the 22-4 2.0 really is a great car. I have absolutely no complaints about it.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:38 AM   #1044
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Shredded the front belt this last Saturday. Any known causes other than a misadjusted slipper? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:57 AM   #1045
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Shredded the front belt this last Saturday. Any known causes other than a misadjusted slipper? Thanks in advance.
Not on the 2.0
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:07 AM   #1046
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Yeah with the updated front belt covers from the 1.0 front belts tend to last a very long time. If you have lots of miles on it might have just been time to do maintenance.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:13 PM   #1047
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If it was high bite with too much brake I've seen them pop.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:00 PM   #1048
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If it was high bite with too much brake I've seen them pop.
I haven't seen many front belts break in 2.0 cars, but the one I did witness on the track was braking at the end of a straight into a hairpin on highbite clay. The car was also almost new, so the belts may not have been very broken in yet.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:09 PM   #1049
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Tyler ran his 1.0 for a whole year on kit belts. We had a spare diff for front and rear to swap out when ones in car got gritty. This is the most durable car on the market compared to most. Not to mention best handling and jumping 4wd.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:37 PM   #1050
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How often do you fill up or change out diff fluid, its been a few months since new and was going to do it, car runs great, just wondering. thanks
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