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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-20-2016, 04:40 AM   #91
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Not yet
what do you mean not yet?
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:53 AM   #92
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what do you mean not yet?
The arms don't come with the hole, but Frank said there is a revision coming out soon
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:04 AM   #93
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are the rear arms drilled to fit the sway bar in reverse postion (shocks in front of tower) ??
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The arms don't come with the hole, but Frank said there is a revision coming out soon
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:52 AM   #94
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Good info hopefully Frank will do a quick vid in building the diffs, also curious to how much oil do u put in.
The kit came supplied with 50k for front and rear, but factory drivers in UK are running 20k front and 10k rear. There isn't much space to put the oil in, so the way I did it was to put a bit over the gears and worked it around by rotating the drive cup. This was enough to get a good coating and not just pour straight over the side. I let that settle a little for any air bubbles to come out and seated the gasket. Then I put a generous "blob" over the top and in the only space between the gears and quickly put the other half over top (taking care aligning the little pins) and screwed it together. Don't go made with these screws as they are the tiny imperial head (0.050").
A quick video from Frank would be a very good idea.
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:55 AM   #95
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The arms don't come with the hole, but Frank said there is a revision coming out soon
I built the car with shocks on the front and simply rotated the rear arms.
There wasn't any obvious change to wheelbase or toe that I could see or any weird shock angle.
Frank can you confirm this will work (other than the lack of sway bar) or of any subtle change that I hadn't spotted?
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:33 PM   #96
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I built the car with shocks on the front and simply rotated the rear arms.
There wasn't any obvious change to wheelbase or toe that I could see or any weird shock angle.
Frank can you confirm this will work (other than the lack of sway bar) or of any subtle change that I hadn't spotted?
It definitely changes the wheel base. When arms are flipped, I have 5mm in the front and 1mm in the rear of the hubs. Arms normal, its 2mm front, 4mm rear.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:44 PM   #97
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It definitely changes the wheel base. When arms are flipped, I have 5mm in the front and 1mm in the rear of the hubs. Arms normal, its 2mm front, 4mm rear.
OK, we're running full long in the UK with shocks on front.
Will remember that when running shocks on rear, thanks.
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:37 AM   #98
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Was able to run my 2.0 for some practice last week. Don't mind the Reedy motor it's just a placeholder. Having never built a TLR 4W I was pretty impressed how everything went together really nicely. I only built gear diffs on the ZX6 I had, and those always leaked but I have to say the quality on the 2.0 diffs are pretty outstanding. I checked them after my initial few runs to see if I had made any errors in putting them in and they were still good to go. Performance wise I was always jealous of the 22-4 when running against them since they landed like a friggin truck compared to the car I had at the time. Traction was great and the car just felt very comfortable from the start and very stable even on brand new tires. It was still really good considering I hadn't touched a 4W in almost a year. Overall I am really happy with the car and I can't wait to get more time with it as 4W is such a fan class for me.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:47 AM   #99
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The steering blocks are the same, correct?
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:54 AM   #100
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Was able to run my 2.0 for some practice last week. Don't mind the Reedy motor it's just a placeholder. Having never built a TLR 4W I was pretty impressed how everything went together really nicely. I only built gear diffs on the ZX6 I had, and those always leaked but I have to say the quality on the 2.0 diffs are pretty outstanding. I checked them after my initial few runs to see if I had made any errors in putting them in and they were still good to go. Performance wise I was always jealous of the 22-4 when running against them since they landed like a friggin truck compared to the car I had at the time. Traction was great and the car just felt very comfortable from the start and very stable even on brand new tires. It was still really good considering I hadn't touched a 4W in almost a year. Overall I am really happy with the car and I can't wait to get more time with it as 4W is such a fan class for me.
It's so good
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:31 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Was able to run my 2.0 for some practice last week. Don't mind the Reedy motor it's just a placeholder. Having never built a TLR 4W I was pretty impressed how everything went together really nicely. I only built gear diffs on the ZX6 I had, and those always leaked but I have to say the quality on the 2.0 diffs are pretty outstanding. I checked them after my initial few runs to see if I had made any errors in putting them in and they were still good to go. Performance wise I was always jealous of the 22-4 when running against them since they landed like a friggin truck compared to the car I had at the time. Traction was great and the car just felt very comfortable from the start and very stable even on brand new tires. It was still really good considering I hadn't touched a 4W in almost a year. Overall I am really happy with the car and I can't wait to get more time with it as 4W is such a fan class for me.
I don't wanna have to say I told you so, but I told you so months ago....
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:40 AM   #102
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The steering blocks are the same, correct?
Yes
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:26 PM   #103
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Any news on arrival of kits? Money in hand!!!!

edit never mind, just saw the live Facebook broadcast.

Last edited by 3DRCRACER; 05-26-2016 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:03 PM   #104
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Cool your jets Gus, it will be here soon enough.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:03 PM   #105
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Can't wait to get my hands on this. I LOVE my current 22/4 and how this is even better is gonna be almost unbelievable!

Curious question for Frank! I know that I am probably gonna jinx my current ride but what to you think is the issue with the front belt breaking on the 22/4? I personally haven't had any breaks yet and my car is still good to go it seems. Could the breaking been the result of landing on power on the front and the stress that could cause with an improperly adjusted Slipper? Maybe this is something that can't really be answered. Anyway, great job on the 2.0!
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