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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-03-2017, 05:18 PM   #1021
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Frank mentioned they will do a running change to add the sway bar mount holes to the the arms for those that flip the shocks. Don't know when they will be available though.
Oh.. so it's a "sponsored guys only" thing.... never mind.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:16 PM   #1022
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updated arms? where can you get that?
The kit we bought had the updated arms. I'd bet they were in the latest batch of kits. But, his 22 3.0 didnt have updated rear arms with the shock holes on front and rear of the arms for those who mount rear shocks on front of the rear arms in 2wd car. Sooooo, it's not a sponsored driver thing.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:27 PM   #1023
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The kit we bought had the updated arms. I'd bet they were in the latest batch of kits. But, his 22 3.0 didnt have updated rear arms with the shock holes on front and rear of the arms for those who mount rear shocks on front of the rear arms in 2wd car. Sooooo, it's not a sponsored driver thing.
I agree, I think they are trickling in. The 22-4 2.0 I built a month ago didn't have the running updated arms but the Spec Racer I just built had the updated 22 arms which.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:16 PM   #1024
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The kit we bought had the updated arms. I'd bet they were in the latest batch of kits. But, his 22 3.0 didnt have updated rear arms with the shock holes on front and rear of the arms for those who mount rear shocks on front of the rear arms in 2wd car. Sooooo, it's not a sponsored driver thing.
OK .... so it's just not available yet to be sold as an optional rear arm?
I actually run my 2wd right in front too and prefer it in high bite clay tracks.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:23 PM   #1025
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OK .... so it's just not available yet to be sold as an optional rear arm?
I actually run my 2wd right in front too and prefer it in high bite clay tracks.
It's a running change I believe. Not an option part. Take a look at local hobby shop and see if they have the newer ones. Not sure if online stores could tell you if they have the updated parts in the warehouse or not.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:28 PM   #1026
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It's a running change I believe. Not an option part. Take a look at local hobby shop and see if they have the newer ones. Not sure if online stores could tell you if they have the updated parts in the warehouse or not.
part number?
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:41 PM   #1027
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Oh.. so it's a "sponsored guys only" thing.... never mind.
I don't have them. Go back 20 pages or so and Frank mentions it. I drilled my arms for swaybar holes.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:32 PM   #1028
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part number?
Same part numbers. They don't change the numbers for a running change made in the mold.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:45 PM   #1029
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Being that the front pivot is on back order I just had a little idea that I tried with mine that I want to share. This will definitely get you guys back up and running in no time. Take the 2.0 front brace and put it on the rear of the pivot. It's not a hard to do mod. If you are handy with a dremel you can do it. Just sand down the center of the pivot by the short screw so that the brace lines up with the hinge pins. Once that's complete mount the brace. Do not tighten too tight. Make sure that the arms are free. For the bumper cut a slot so that the bumper fits over the brace and secure it as normal. Finished product should look like the picture. For the front I use the 1.0 steel brace however the 2.0 brace also works as it should. Give it a try!
Anybody else done this mod?

Just broke another pivot the last race day and thought I'd try this mod to reinforce the new one to prevent another pivot failure.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:49 PM   #1030
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Same part numbers. They don't change the numbers for a running change made in the mold.
can you kindly take a picture of this arm and post it here please so I can show my hobby shop (hot rod hobbies) so they can order it for me.
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:28 PM   #1031
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Rear shocks in front. Pros and cons
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:58 PM   #1032
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Cons you have to modify the rear arms for now. Pro's car rotates through the corner better.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:10 PM   #1033
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How does the flipped arms (shock in front) go on low-medium bite tracks?
Thanks
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:18 PM   #1034
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Honestly have not tried it on a lower grip track yet. I am sure others have.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:22 PM   #1035
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Rear shocks in front. Pros and cons
From my experience with a 2wd. With the shocks in front ... you can be agressive and fast in corners because the rear end feels very light unlike when you have shocks at the back..it feels heavier. In my experience... good when you have to slow down negotiating a loose and bumpy corner.
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