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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-20-2016, 08:35 AM   #976
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Will give that a shot. The track is indoor clay medium to low grip. It does groove up nicely to where some people run slicks. I tried ghosted bars in front and chain links in the rear that didn't work. With new chain links in the front the grip was reduced and they worked a lot better. Still seems crazy to have the expo at -90%. Is it possible that the servo is too fast?
If guys are running slicks you have high traction.

Yeah you should not need to run expo that high. Sounds like something else might be off if it is that twitchy. an expo that high I would think is quite hard to drive as well. all the steering would come on late.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:03 AM   #977
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whats a good 13.5t gearing ?
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:14 AM   #978
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Hey guys. Need some help here. Making the transition from the HB to the 22-4. Loving it so far but am experiencing some over-steering issues. So much so that I really have slow down going into the corners. I laid down the front shocks, dropped the shock oil down to 35, slowed down the servo by 10%, and have my expo set at -90. all of these changes really helped but I just know there has to be a better way...... any ideas?

What radio are you using? Hopefully not Flysky...
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:02 AM   #979
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Driving style might need some slight adjustment.... Ask yourself are you braking to late while your in the corner and on the brakes. I have my speed controlled before entering the corner. Just as the front end sets to corner my power/throttle is stabilized and start squeezing the power back on and throttle out of the corner. Watch that you don't over do to induce a push
Turn the EXP back to 20% at a max, I usually run 0%. Try 40k front and 60k rear oil, and a yellow front sway bar. I'd also recommend getting orange Kyosho front springs, or Orange AE if on a budget. Then report back.

Make sure to run 1mm higher front ride height than rear also.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:05 AM   #980
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26-28/84 depending on the size of the track is where I have been playing with my Tekin setup.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:59 PM   #981
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In front.
Are you running 5 front, 1 back on the hub spacers?
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:17 PM   #982
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Have you tried a front sway bar?
Yep the yellow front bar works good on high bite clay for me. I was having to slow down on a fast sweeper to avoid rolling before I got it. It's probably not needed on any surface that's not high bite though.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:38 AM   #983
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What radio are you using? Hopefully not Flysky...
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:50 AM   #984
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Turn the EXP back to 20% at a max, I usually run 0%. Try 40k front and 60k rear oil, and a yellow front sway bar. I'd also recommend getting orange Kyosho front springs, or Orange AE if on a budget. Then report back.

Make sure to run 1mm higher front ride height than rear also.
Thanks Frank! I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:51 PM   #985
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I actually got to run indoors today on high bite clay. Even though I finished first out of the 4 wheelers I drove like poop.....super slow. Nothing to brag about. Slicks on clay felt weird. I haven't used this particular 22-4 in 2 months since my track went to wet dirt for the winter. With a pretty much box set up the car felt great. I didn't practice or run a single lap until my first race. By the end of the second round I was kind of feeling it. On really high bite bluegroove the off power steering is a little soft. Not the case with clay.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:35 AM   #986
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I actually got to run indoors today on high bite clay. Even though I finished first out of the 4 wheelers I drove like poop.....super slow. Nothing to brag about. Slicks on clay felt weird. I haven't used this particular 22-4 in 2 months since my track went to wet dirt for the winter. With a pretty much box set up the car felt great. I didn't practice or run a single lap until my first race. By the end of the second round I was kind of feeling it. On really high bite bluegroove the off power steering is a little soft. Not the case with clay.
where did you go?
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Old 12-22-2016, 09:09 AM   #987
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Since it was raining we couldn't run at home so for the first time in at least a year I went to SCVRC. I like their new layout. I wish that I had a way to get over there once a month instead of once a year. None of my cars were really set up quite right although the 22-4 was better than ok. I'm pretty sure that I could go a second faster a lap with a day of practice. High grip clay is different than high grip dirt and I had to put myself on cruise control. The track is also tight and I had a devil of time figuring out the last big sweeper that leads into the 5 pack. My summer 22-4 has a HW Bandit 13.5 and a Justock speedo and had more power than I needed. I could quad the 5 pack if I set the corner up right. Nobody could hit all 5 but I'm sure somebody will eventually figure it out after the layout has been there for a bit. Kevin Kasten was a second a lap faster than everybody....I think he was the only person in the 14s.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:09 PM   #988
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Since it was raining we couldn't run at home so for the first time in at least a year I went to SCVRC. I like their new layout. I wish that I had a way to get over there once a month instead of once a year. None of my cars were really set up quite right although the 22-4 was better than ok. I'm pretty sure that I could go a second faster a lap with a day of practice. High grip clay is different than high grip dirt and I had to put myself on cruise control. The track is also tight and I had a devil of time figuring out the last big sweeper that leads into the 5 pack. My summer 22-4 has a HW Bandit 13.5 and a Justock speedo and had more power than I needed. I could quad the 5 pack if I set the corner up right. Nobody could hit all 5 but I'm sure somebody will eventually figure it out after the layout has been there for a bit. Kevin Kasten was a second a lap faster than everybody....I think he was the only person in the 14s.
Kevin usually dominates the expert class when he is there. Ill be there tonight to setup both 2wd and 4wd for next WEd night race. I was suppose to go there but got lazy and decided to go to hot rod , buy some parts and wrench on my 2wd last night. Had to replace a long overdue outdrives replacement. Hopefully ill meet you there or hot rod, they are racing xmas and ny eve (saturday). Maybe yiu can show me how to work on my tlr 😊
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:33 PM   #989
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Is anyone running there car on carpet? I'm currently running the HB but I'm a Losi guy at heart. My 1.0 was twitchy on carpet but I always had to run th diffs tight. Would love to try this ca out but don't want to downgrade. Does the 2.0 come with sway bars front and rear and what's the thickest sway bar?
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:56 PM   #990
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The kit comes with rear sway bar but the 1.0 front sway bar will mount to the car no problem. The 2.0 refines the 1.0 and includes some hopups we were running on the 1.0. The gear diffs will be good for you as well.
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