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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-18-2016, 11:00 AM   #961
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TRUGGY!!!!!!?????????? you mean something like a 4wd Stadium Truck?
Yes. Looks like 22T front arms would fit. I don't have a set of rears to test fit.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #962
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Yes. Looks like 22T front arms would fit. I don't have a set of rears to test fit.
wow... how about the body?
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:59 PM   #963
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Has anyone tried converting a 22-4 into a truggy? Do any of the truck arms mount?
Finding bones the correct length may be an issue. It would be a short truggy as well.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:04 PM   #964
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Finding bones the correct length may be an issue. It would be a short truggy as well.
Yeah, the fronts look problematic, I think the 22-4 2.0 bones are 81mm.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:36 AM   #965
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Hey guys. Need some help here. Making the transition from the HB to the 22-4. Loving it so far but am experiencing some over-steering issues. So much so that I really have slow down going into the corners. I laid down the front shocks, dropped the shock oil down to 35, slowed down the servo by 10%, and have my expo set at -90. all of these changes really helped but I just know there has to be a better way...... any ideas?
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:42 AM   #966
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TRUGGY!!!!!!?????????? you mean something like a 4wd Stadium Truck?
A bunch of us have been saying a 1/10th 4wd stadium truck would be awesome. Ones that used normal 2s packs etc.
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:14 AM   #967
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Hey guys. Need some help here. Making the transition from the HB to the 22-4. Loving it so far but am experiencing some over-steering issues. So much so that I really have slow down going into the corners. I laid down the front shocks, dropped the shock oil down to 35, slowed down the servo by 10%, and have my expo set at -90. all of these changes really helped but I just know there has to be a better way...... any ideas?
what do you have your diffs at for fluid. Sounds like it is loose going into a corner and not coming out?
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:49 PM   #968
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what do you have your diffs at for fluid. Sounds like it is loose going into a corner and not coming out?
50/50 started with stock setup.
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Old 12-19-2016, 04:20 PM   #969
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A bunch of us have been saying a 1/10th 4wd stadium truck would be awesome. Ones that used normal 2s packs etc.
Losi tried something years ago. You can get a reissue of the body from TBG on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOSI-HEAVY-METAL-BODY-fits-xxx-4-xx-4-b44-lazer-501x-/150532811081?hash=item230c746949
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Old 12-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #970
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hum. Try playing with the rear hub settings. I liked the hubs further rear then stock settings.

What kind of track. What are your tires?
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Old 12-19-2016, 07:57 PM   #971
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Casper are you running the shocks in front or behind the arm?
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:53 PM   #972
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In front.
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Old 12-20-2016, 04:54 AM   #973
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hum. Try playing with the rear hub settings. I liked the hubs further rear then stock settings.

What kind of track. What are your tires?
Will give that a shot. The track is indoor clay medium to low grip. It does groove up nicely to where some people run slicks. I tried ghosted bars in front and chain links in the rear that didn't work. With new chain links in the front the grip was reduced and they worked a lot better. Still seems crazy to have the expo at -90%. Is it possible that the servo is too fast?
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:02 AM   #974
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Have you tried a front sway bar?
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:24 AM   #975
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Originally Posted by Bxr126 View Post
Hey guys. Need some help here. Making the transition from the HB to the 22-4. Loving it so far but am experiencing some over-steering issues. So much so that I really have slow down going into the corners. I laid down the front shocks, dropped the shock oil down to 35, slowed down the servo by 10%, and have my expo set at -90. all of these changes really helped but I just know there has to be a better way...... any ideas?
Driving style might need some slight adjustment.... Ask yourself are you braking to late while your in the corner and on the brakes. I have my speed controlled before entering the corner. Just as the front end sets to corner my power/throttle is stabilized and start squeezing the power back on and throttle out of the corner. Watch that you don't over do to induce a push
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