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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-05-2016, 10:27 AM   #916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesengr View Post
Hi guys. I am not new to RC but am somewhat new to RC trucks. I would like to ask for a functional and/or performance comparison between the 22-4 buggy and the TEN-SCBE other than the fact that the SCBE comes RTR. I also understand that one could build the SCTE V3 and convert to a buggy.

Since I still mostly do airborne RC, I am leaning towards the TEN-SCBE but may go the 22-4 route. I'd like to have a durable quality off road vehicle that could be raced but also just for fun. We do have a local outdoor dirt track for 1/10 scale electric.

I have a DX4S to operate with.
The TEN-SCBE is based on the TEN-SCTE short course truck and is more of a 1/8 realistic looking scale off-raod buggy. It should be more durable than the 22-4, which is a 1/0 scale buggy meant for racing only, I don't think people drive it recreationally/bash. It's really low to the ground and wouldn't survive rough terrain.

I think the SCBE would fit your needs much better. It doesn't fit any legal race categories, but if you're just driving it with your friends, no worries.
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:32 PM   #917
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Casper

What did you gear and use for belt settings on your 13.5 buggy for the Top Gun race.

Thanks
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:50 PM   #918
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I ran Tekin Gen 3 13.5. I started the event at 26/84 but went up to 28/84. Timing on the motor was slightly over 40 deg (lets call it 42 )

Belt settings are the kit settings.

Could clear the triple the entire race as long as I set up for it properly. If you jumped off that roller before the triple it was not going to make it with a 13.5. Tekin motors put in the fastest 2 lap times of the class. Randy Lathrop with a Tekin powered 22-4 was the only other guy to go sub 15.8 on that layout.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:23 PM   #919
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TLR 22-4 2.0 with the R1 Wurks 13.5 dominated the top gun shootout from start to finish.

This car with a 13.5 is so enjoyable to drive and extremely fast compared to other cars. It /may not be the lightest or whatever but under load there is almost no friction and the suspension is above and beyond any other car out there. 78/25 30 degrees on the can of timing with a fan. I could clear the triple easily from the inside for the first 3 min then had to start to slow down and get a better run at it. Had a battery dump on me in qual 2 which definatly didn't help haha.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:58 PM   #920
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What's the best way to mount a motor fan? Blowing into the motor or sucking air away?
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:07 PM   #921
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Originally Posted by HomicidalBunny View Post
What's the best way to mount a motor fan? Blowing into the motor or sucking air away?
Blow
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:44 PM   #922
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Cheers
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:19 PM   #923
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Did not need a fan. Motor was running about 130.
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:16 PM   #924
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I ordered a bunch of pivots from a shop in Finland a long time ago....they finally arrived. With my luck they're available again. At least I'll probably never need to order one again.
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Old 12-08-2016, 05:08 PM   #925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I ordered a bunch of pivots from a shop in Finland a long time ago....they finally arrived. With my luck they're available again. At least I'll probably never need to order one again.
I noticed that even if they're not broken, the part that keys into the chassis can develop slop after some hard hits and should be replace anyway. Else, a hard hit can tweak the pivot block to the side a little bit throwing off your trim.

That was one nice thing about the old style steel brace -- it keyed into the chassis and basically made sure your pivot block was always straight.
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:11 PM   #926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
I noticed that even if they're not broken, the part that keys into the chassis can develop slop after some hard hits and should be replace anyway. Else, a hard hit can tweak the pivot block to the side a little bit throwing off your trim.

That was one nice thing about the old style steel brace -- it keyed into the chassis and basically made sure your pivot block was always straight.
I've noticed recently that my steering was not re-centering, I thought it was the servo. My front pivot has some play in it and now I'm going to look at it a little harder, thanks for the scoop!
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:22 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I've noticed recently that my steering was not re-centering, I thought it was the servo. My front pivot has some play in it and now I'm going to look at it a little harder, thanks for the scoop!
Yeah, I thought my servo turnbuckle was stripping, 'cause other people complained of that, but I think the pivot block is just tweaking a little bit. It's got 5 bolts holding it in, but the back one doesn't do much. Seem critical to make sure the 5 bolts are very tight. A new block removed about 50% of the potential side-to-side movement in mine.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:01 PM   #928
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TLR231045 - Front Pivots

We have checked in a bunch today. We have more in the warehouse now than we've sold in the 6 months the car has shipped. We won't be out anytime soon....
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:38 PM   #929
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
TLR231045 - Front Pivots

We have checked in a bunch today. We have more in the warehouse now than we've sold in the 6 months the car has shipped. We won't be out anytime soon....
oh thank you sweet jesus.
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:21 PM   #930
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I posted a review of the 22-4 2.0 on my blog for those interested in an opinion.

http://razorrc.tumblr.com/post/15309...22-4-20-review
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