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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-16-2016, 11:43 AM   #76
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Thanks for the info Matt Trimmings.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:24 PM   #77
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New to 4wd buggy. Always loved TLR. First buggy was an 90 Losi JRX2 and would like to get another Losi. What does the Losi 22.4 have over the others, and specifically the Xray XB4? thx
On super high bite, the 22-4 didn't have much.

The 2.0 is supposed to fix that.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:05 PM   #78
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2x Gear Diffs, Rear/Center belt covers, front belt covers, chassis, front pivot, pin brace and bumper.



Trust me, we'd have loved to have been able to design a gear diff that would drop in the 1.0, but the actual physical and mechanical engineering we know just simply would not allow it.



Yes, the bell cranks, servo horns, bell cranks, etc. are all the same.
are the bell crank - crank bells the same?
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:38 PM   #79
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what would be the diff oil setup for loose loamy outdoor track? type of track where goosebumps are the tire of choice.
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:11 AM   #80
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what would be the diff oil setup for loose loamy outdoor track? type of track where goosebumps are the tire of choice.
I'm going to start with 30,000 and go from there.
Can't wait for this car, already downloaded the manual must of read it like 4x
Haha
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:32 AM   #81
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what would be the diff oil setup for loose loamy outdoor track? type of track where goosebumps are the tire of choice.
I'd probably start with 15k front and rear, and tune from there.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:35 AM   #82
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thanks for the info Frank!

I literally just bought a 1.0, so probably going to upgrade it bit by bit. I already have a bunch of updates on it and I really like how it handles now. That said I am moving to arizona, and sounds like the gear diffs could help at SRS. I know people say sell it and get new . . . but that's just a pain, i don't even feel like it's worn in yet.
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:31 AM   #83
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Are the rear driveshafts longer than the ones from the tlr 22 and so they fit? I forgot to limit the drop and chipped the outdrive a bit making it popping out very easily.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:10 AM   #84
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Are the rear driveshafts longer than the ones from the tlr 22 and so they fit? I forgot to limit the drop and chipped the outdrive a bit making it popping out very easily.
Yes, the driveshaft is longer (68mm)
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:30 AM   #85
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Is there a list of parts that can be changed on the 1.0 to make it somewhat a 2.0 besides the biggest change gear diffs
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:43 AM   #86
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Yes, the driveshaft is longer (68mm)
Great! Your support is the best:-)
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:29 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by magnushedqvist View Post
Great! Your support is the best:-)
Just built a pre-release 22-4 2.0 for my brother (tlr driver here in the UK) and my 1st 4wd from tlr since the street weapon which it's developed from.
Generally a very good build and similar to the build of his 22 2.0, 3.0 and 3.0 laydown.
It may be because it's a pre-release example (arrived in a bag), but you need to be very careful whilst building the diffs. The instructions have you build and fill the diffs and explain the different tooth count on the outer ring/pulley gear for front and rear, but doesn't mention that there are 2 slightly different diff casing "caps" required for each until after complete assembly. I luckily got it right first time, but they could do with a marking for F/R or a re-sequencing of the manual.
One of the rear anti squat blocks (rhs) wasn't shown to have both screws installed in the manual and the arrows for the plastic insert were incorrect, but it was fairly obvious when building.
Other than this, everything was pretty much ok, personally I would have made some of the screws longer in a few locations as they only screwed in a couple of threads (especially the front wishbone hanger to the chassis), but again this is hopefully just because it is a pre-release kit.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:54 PM   #88
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are the rear arms drilled to fit the sway bar in reverse postion (shocks in front of tower) ??
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:56 PM   #89
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are the rear arms drilled to fit the sway bar in reverse postion (shocks in front of tower) ??
Not yet
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:33 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattPR8 View Post
Just built a pre-release 22-4 2.0 for my brother (tlr driver here in the UK) and my 1st 4wd from tlr since the street weapon which it's developed from.
Generally a very good build and similar to the build of his 22 2.0, 3.0 and 3.0 laydown.
It may be because it's a pre-release example (arrived in a bag), but you need to be very careful whilst building the diffs. The instructions have you build and fill the diffs and explain the different tooth count on the outer ring/pulley gear for front and rear, but doesn't mention that there are 2 slightly different diff casing "caps" required for each until after complete assembly. I luckily got it right first time, but they could do with a marking for F/R or a re-sequencing of the manual.
One of the rear anti squat blocks (rhs) wasn't shown to have both screws installed in the manual and the arrows for the plastic insert were incorrect, but it was fairly obvious when building.
Other than this, everything was pretty much ok, personally I would have made some of the screws longer in a few locations as they only screwed in a couple of threads (especially the front wishbone hanger to the chassis), but again this is hopefully just because it is a pre-release kit.
Good info hopefully Frank will do a quick vid in building the diffs, also curious to how much oil do u put in.
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