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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-17-2016, 04:54 PM   #871
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I'm running 30K in both diffs, the track I primarily race at is loose to medium grip. The belt settings are just from the manual
Yeh my club track is pretty loose also. Have you tried 50/50 at all. Watching Franks videos I was going to start with 30/30 also but noticed some other top Aussie stock drivers are running 50/50. They're also running the rear belt tension as loose as possible which is the D setting.
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:43 AM   #872
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Ran mine for thr first time yesterday and after a few packs, the rear diff feels to free similar to thinner oil. Front is still not as free but both had 50k in it. Is this normal?
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:55 AM   #873
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Ran mine for thr first time yesterday and after a few packs, the rear diff feels to free similar to thinner oil. Front is still not as free but both had 50k in it. Is this normal?
I built mine about a month ago and the front diff was not smooth at all. It felt notchy. The rear was extremely smooth. After a few battery packs, the front is starting to smooth out. It's about 95% free compared to the rear.
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:43 PM   #874
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I'm running 30K in both diffs, the track I primarily race at is loose to medium grip. The belt settings are just from the manual
I specifically set up a car for a loose wet dirt track and we went 30/30, a little softer on shock oil, and put the 3.0 LRC camber block in the rear. Pretty much everything else book. It was poo. Terrible off power steering and the car just felt loose. I tried my 1st car that has 100% book set up and it was better. I'm going to put back in the stock 2.5 LRC block back in, add 1mm of droop fr/rr, change springs and change the front caster blocks to 10 degrees. I'll probably also put 50/50 back in the diffs. With 30/30 in the diffs the car didn't feel as stable.

I Made all of these changes but I left the diffs at 30k and didn't change the camber block. I also stood the rear shocks up 1 position. Its a million times better! It's a little loose off power but there is plenty of steering. I'm a couple of changes away from being dialed.
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Last edited by QDRHRSE; 11-24-2016 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 11-19-2016, 03:19 AM   #875
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Hey guys, I'm sure this has been asked at some point so I apologize for being repetitive. I'm getting ready to switch from the HB to the 22-4 and was wondering if there are any must have replacement parts or upgrades? Appreciate the insight.
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:04 AM   #876
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I have at least a couple of these cars. One is out of the box stock. After a couple of months I have yet to break anything. Unless you're a crazed lunatic you don't need much. I have been a TLR hater for a long while but they partially won me back over with this car. Its fantastic. It might not be quite the tank that the D413 is but its the most stable RC car that I've ever owned and the out of the box set up is good enough to win races on medium to high grip track. From what I've heard you'll want to buy a spare front pivot. That's about it. I'm not that fast but consistent, slow and steady. Its a perfect car for me. Parts are also very reasonably priced.
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:25 AM   #877
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Originally Posted by Bxr126 View Post
Hey guys, I'm sure this has been asked at some point so I apologize for being repetitive. I'm getting ready to switch from the HB to the 22-4 and was wondering if there are any must have replacement parts or upgrades? Appreciate the insight.
I would recommend alum servo arms.

Other then that this car really does not need much.

I prefer alum clamping hexes but that is a preference. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones other than they can come off with the wheels on occasions.

TLR race kits come pretty complete.
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #878
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Good stuff. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:51 AM   #879
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Does someone know how much oil you put in diffs with a scale?
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:24 PM   #880
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I love this buggy so much due to the belts. ... but that front pivot just keeps breaking on me. I'm already at #2....now, I have to wait until December to get it. Does anybody make a sturdier version .... like an aluminum one?
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:25 PM   #881
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I would recommend alum servo arms.

Other then that this car really does not need much.

I prefer alum clamping hexes but that is a preference. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones other than they can come off with the wheels on occasions.

TLR race kits come pretty complete.
where do you get those aluminum clamping hexes?
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:57 PM   #882
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So while my wife was cooking I was cutting. 5 screws to change the spur and can change the pinion with the motor in the car. I am going to add a brace up front as I can flex the front end a few mm by hand. Not worried about exposing the belt much since I only run on clay and the body covers it all anyway.
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Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-img_2092.jpg   Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-img_2093.jpg  
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:01 AM   #883
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I love this buggy so much due to the belts. ... but that front pivot just keeps breaking on me. I'm already at #2....now, I have to wait until December to get it. Does anybody make a sturdier version .... like an aluminum one?
You mean something like this?
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.

I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely

I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:32 AM   #884
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You mean something like this?
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.

I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely

I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
Nice! That's a lot of work for 1 part!! In the past I've gone to a machine shop or two to ask about making custom parts like that and it costs hundreds to have a shop set up the CNC and make the first part. Its awesome that you can run the CNC yourself. That pivot, theoretically, would cost more than the whole damn car kit. I still don't understand what you guys are doing to break those pivots. Are guys playing pinball on the pipes? Seriously, you'd have to be hitting stuff really hard. Specifically, what kind of impact typically breaks them?
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:15 AM   #885
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Nice! That's a lot of work for 1 part!! In the past I've gone to a machine shop or two to ask about making custom parts like that and it costs hundreds to have a shop set up the CNC and make the first part. Its awesome that you can run the CNC yourself. That pivot, theoretically, would cost more than the whole damn car kit. I still don't understand what you guys are doing to break those pivots. Are guys playing pinball on the pipes? Seriously, you'd have to be hitting stuff really hard. Specifically, what kind of impact typically breaks them?
Landing skewed in big jumps then somersaults then hit a wall.

http://https://youtu.be/t9PSMg8teJY

Check out that quad at the back that ends in a 90 degree corner.

Consider this.... Second time driving a 4wd. So... Still learning getting used to it. This buggy is not friendly to first time 4wd drivers.

Last edited by Phillip F; 11-25-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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