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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-15-2016, 02:02 PM   #856
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You can. The 22-4 has plenty of steering if setup right (kit setup is pretty spot on IMO). The clicker gives more low speed steering however with full time brakes you will likely not spin out like you will with rear only brakes. Being in Santa Clarity you race at HRH or SVCRC both of which I think would favor full time 4wd although HRH can have some layout s with enough flow you might find a clicker might be good.

By all means give it a try but I would bet you will be faster if you use your brakes and are in full time 4wd but everyone has their own driving style.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:34 PM   #857
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I am still learning how to drive the 4wd. I've been racing the 2wd buggy and usually I don't use brakes. If I do... I use a little drag brake in my esc for 2wd. I wonder if I can make my 4wd similarly drive like my 2wd. Install the clicker and have a little bit of drag brake to mimic my 2wd. What do you think?
I'm also new to 4WD buggy, but I think it makes a lot more sense to change your driving style to take advantage of the differences of wheeler than it is to try to change your car to act like a 2WD buggy.
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:05 PM   #858
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I don't run the clicker. Too old school for me. But I got the idea. In fact, now that I think about it, he may have meant slipper but said clicker out of habit. A wheeler is going to slow more while coasting because there is a lot more drivetrain drag. There's twice the stuff to slow down. Hence, the reason for the clicker. However the clicker has disadvantages too.
What are the disadvantages in running a one way clicker? I remember 13 years ago racing 1/8 nitro on road. ... I usually have a one way in front.
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:32 PM   #859
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What's the general consensus on running the shocks in front of the rear tower? Worth the hassle or not?
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:53 PM   #860
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What's the general consensus on running the shocks in front of the rear tower? Worth the hassle or not?
I might not be the best person to answer this for you, because I built my kit with the shocks in front of the arms right out of the box. I had a few buddies who had already done this and insisted its the way to go. So I don't know how the car handled with the shocks on the rear, but a) it's really not much hassle to do. Swap the arms, drill two holes for the sway bar mount and that's it, and b) this is the best driving wheeler I've owned and I've owned just about all of them (B44.x, XB4, D413, ZX6, DEX410 vX)
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Old 11-16-2016, 01:01 PM   #861
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Default Which Aluminum Rear Hubs?

I have a 22-4 2.0 and am thinking about picking up a set of alunimum rear hubs. I've seen two fellow racers have ball studs ripped out of the plastic hub this indoor season already. I see two different versions of aluminum rear hubs:

+3mm with 6 mounting positions per hub (TLR334037)
4 mounting positions per hub (TLR334014)

Which is recommended?
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Old 11-16-2016, 01:35 PM   #862
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I have a 22-4 2.0 and am thinking about picking up a set of alunimum rear hubs. I've seen two fellow racers have ball studs ripped out of the plastic hub this indoor season already.
Another thing you can do is put set screws in the empty holes in your plastic holes. This helps the plastic from deforming when the stresses get put on them. Helped me on my 22T 2.0.
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:15 PM   #863
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Default 22-4 2.0 gearing

Hi guys. I run stock 17.5 blinky and was wondering what gearing people are using? Also any other tips to get this car ready for stock racing? I noticed the smallest spur from TLR is a 76 so what other brand of spur or mods are people doing. Thanks.

Last edited by v8murphy; 11-16-2016 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Spelling mistake
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:05 PM   #864
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I run 84/29 with a 13.5. You should be able to make a 76 or 78 spur work fine. Figure 28-30/76. I could be wrong. I've been wrong before.
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Old 11-16-2016, 11:31 PM   #865
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Originally Posted by v8murphy View Post
Hi guys. I run stock 17.5 blinky and was wondering what gearing people are using? Also any other tips to get this car ready for stock racing? I noticed the smallest spur from TLR is a 76 so what other brand of spur or mods are people doing. Thanks.
I run 17.5 with a 70t spur and 30t pinion. Motor Temps tend to be between 60 and 70 Deg Celsius with out a cooling fan. Losi still make a 70t spur but it uses the old circular slipper pads (the pads are sold as singles so you need to buy 2)
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:19 AM   #866
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I run 17.5 with a 70t spur and 30t pinion. Motor Temps tend to be between 60 and 70 Deg Celsius with out a cooling fan. Losi still make a 70t spur but it uses the old circular slipper pads (the pads are sold as singles so you need to buy 2)
Ok thanks BKH. I've machined down the slipper plates so they fit a Kimborough spur/slipper pad and have a 69t spur on there at the moment. I think I'll go back up to a 72 and start with that. Thanks for the info.
Also what diff oil have you been running and belt settings?
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:08 AM   #867
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Is there really much different between the 1.0 and 2.0, besides the gear diff?
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Old 11-17-2016, 09:01 AM   #868
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Just wondering if someone could explain the benefits of using the universal driveshafts vs the cva
Thanks
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Old 11-17-2016, 12:36 PM   #869
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Just wondering if someone could explain the benefits of using the universal driveshafts vs the cva
Thanks
Universal (UJ) has less bind, and will allow the suspension move more freely, especially when power is applied.

Constant Velocity (CV) joint has more bind, and will stiffen suspension movement, especially on throttle.

CV's usually land better, but don't go through bumps as well. They will have more forward drive and drive more 'square'.

UJ's are better in bumps, but don't land as well. Generally, it will free the car up on throttle.
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:28 PM   #870
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Originally Posted by v8murphy View Post
Ok thanks BKH. I've machined down the slipper plates so they fit a Kimborough spur/slipper pad and have a 69t spur on there at the moment. I think I'll go back up to a 72 and start with that. Thanks for the info.
Also what diff oil have you been running and belt settings?
I'm running 30K in both diffs, the track I primarily race at is loose to medium grip. The belt settings are just from the manual
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