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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-13-2016, 08:35 AM   #841
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They don't seem to make 1 kit. You need to buy everything seperately. I think this is what you will need:

Part# TLR232026 - Diff rebuild kit
Part# TLR232024 - Diff pulleys
Part# TLR232017 - Outdrives
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Old 11-13-2016, 03:36 PM   #842
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I'm hoping MIP comes out with a ball diff kit...but in the meantime, there is no single part number, you need tobuild them:

2x237000
2x232026
2x232017

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/losi/s...-PartsList.pdf
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Last edited by HeavyD99; 11-13-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 11-13-2016, 05:26 PM   #843
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two of these TLR232026 and out drives are all you need.
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Old 11-13-2016, 06:23 PM   #844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkipGear View Post
Here is what I have come up with for a tension chart. There is a little room for error as I used SAE dial calipers to measure and then converted to MM but I think this is a more accurate way of describing the tension options.




For example, if you want to tighten the side belt but keep the same rear belt tension and you are currently running 0 / A>, the next tightest side belt with the same rear belt tension would be 1 / A<.
Looking at some older posts in this thread, this post didn't get enough love!
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:20 AM   #845
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wiki it
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:38 AM   #846
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My front belt snapped after 20 packs on it. I race on high grip carpet on a small track with a lot of 180's. I'm on 85% brake and there is no way I can set the slipper looser without losing a lot of time. The kit is new so the pulleys are as good as they get. I have not heard the belt skipping either. Anyone here racing carpet? How often do you replace it? I hope this isn't something I need to swap every third time on the track.
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Old 11-14-2016, 03:33 PM   #847
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We started running our outdoor track wet. We'll be doing that for 4 months. I'm still fighting a lack of off power steering. Any ideas? I built a car specifically for the wet season and I ended up going back to my car that's pretty much book set up. I admit that I haven't done much to the second car other than go lighter on the oils and changed to the 3.0 degree HRC rear pivot. The car just didn't feel right. I regret going to 30/30 in the diffs for sure. Its hard to tune for med/low traction and freezing temps. Now I want to try book set up with lighter oils and lighter springs (and I'll add some droop too). Traction is ok....off power steering is really bad. We have a couple of tight 180s that lead into doubles and I have to hit the brakes so hard that I'm nearly stopped to make the turns. This is the one thing the xb4 2016 did better. Since I've heard the car is sensitive to wheelbase changes I'm afraid to shorten it up. Any ideas?
Here is a thought. Loosen the clicker for more off power steering. Its there use it. Might even make the front belt last longer. I used this adjustment on my xx4 when more steering was needed which this buggy highly resembles.
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:53 PM   #848
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That's a good thought but I have the nut on the slipper as loose as I can without having it fly off. I just ordered different springs and 10 degree caster blocks. I didn't realize that stock blocks were 12 degrees. I think that might solve the problem.
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:38 PM   #849
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Tempted by this buggy. How's the maintenence? Getting to the diff's easy? I'm coming from an xb4 and am not an avid wrencher...
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:44 PM   #850
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It's actually pretty easy to work on. I came from a ZX6 which has no top plate and I find this easier to work on even with belts.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:10 AM   #851
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
That's a good thought but I have the nut on the slipper as loose as I can without having it fly off. I just ordered different springs and 10 degree caster blocks. I didn't realize that stock blocks were 12 degrees. I think that might solve the problem.
Also, you can try only going down in your front diff. Leave the rear alone.
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:45 AM   #852
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Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
Here is a thought. Loosen the clicker for more off power steering. Its there use it. Might even make the front belt last longer. I used this adjustment on my xx4 when more steering was needed which this buggy highly resembles.
Wait... U guys are running one way clicker in front? I heard it's like braking and coasting like a 2wd... Is that true? I have it and would like to install it. I come from 2wd and when I tried driving the 4wheeler for the first time.... It was a bit odd. When coasting the buggy slows down for you.... Is this normal?
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:33 PM   #853
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I don't run the clicker. Too old school for me. But I got the idea. In fact, now that I think about it, he may have meant slipper but said clicker out of habit. A wheeler is going to slow more while coasting because there is a lot more drivetrain drag. There's twice the stuff to slow down. Hence, the reason for the clicker. However the clicker has disadvantages too.
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:32 PM   #854
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One way is more for flowing sweeping tracks. If you are on the brakes with tight 180's or slow sections full time is the way to go
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:41 PM   #855
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One way is more for flowing sweeping tracks. If you are on the brakes with tight 180's or slow sections full time is the way to go
I am still learning how to drive the 4wd. I've been racing the 2wd buggy and usually I don't use brakes. If I do... I use a little drag brake in my esc for 2wd. I wonder if I can make my 4wd similarly drive like my 2wd. Install the clicker and have a little bit of drag brake to mimic my 2wd. What do you think?
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