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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-06-2016, 01:14 AM   #811
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Well the rear cvd's still haven't been fixed, all bound up, snapped the pin tightening it tonight, this build has been frustrating, fit and finish has not been as good as i thought it would be for a kit of this caliber, first losi in a long time, not impressed, oh well
Hey. Not a Losi fanboy here, but the fit and finish of this car is exceptional. I don't know what you are referring too.

I have a good amount of knowledge and experience on manufacturing, and it is impressive how well the components of this car fit together. Many people truely can't comprehend the effort that would have gone into this kit to get it to the level it is at.

What pin did you snap. The pin that goes through the rear CVD. WOW!!!
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:09 AM   #812
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Call up Product Support tomorrow and you'll have replacements early this week.
Thank you Frank
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:21 AM   #813
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Hi Frank. Do you have a set up for a loose track? When I say loose, I mean wet outdoor dirt. We just made our seasonal switch from bluegroove to wet. I just cant seem to get it to feel right.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:32 PM   #814
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I need to get TLR231045 ... A-main doesn't have it. Where can I buy one? The part where the left hinge pin goes into broke.
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #815
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I need to get TLR231045 ... A-main doesn't have it. Where can I buy one? The part where the left hinge pin goes into broke.
Out of stock until mid December.

Welcome to owning a TLR.

You could buy another kit.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:19 PM   #816
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I bought one on eBay an hour ago.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:27 PM   #817
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I bought one on eBay an hour ago.
lucky... can't find it. would appreciate it if you can tell me the seller.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:35 PM   #818
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Out of stock until mid December.

Welcome to owning a TLR.

You could buy another kit.
never had problems with my B6 and even the XB2 which parts come from Europe.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:48 PM   #819
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Out of stock until mid December.

Welcome to owning a TLR.

You could buy another kit.
If this part won't be in after AE release the new 4WD buggy....I'm selling this buggy and get the new AE 4 wheeler.... what a disappointment.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:34 PM   #820
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lucky... can't find it. would appreciate it if you can tell me the seller.
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If this part won't be in after AE release the new 4WD buggy....I'm selling this buggy and get the new AE 4 wheeler.... what a disappointment.
You can also get it on Amazon. At this point I feel like you aren't trying very hard...

There's zero chance you'd get a new AE buggy before this part comes in. AE didn't race a new buggy at the AE race, when they announce a vehicle there's at least a month before it actually is available for purchase, and the TLR part is available now online at shops or in a month if you want to wait for amain or horizon to have one in stock.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:40 PM   #821
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The 1.0 part can be dremeled to work, a couple more minutes of work and you
can fit a brace to the rear also.
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:24 PM   #822
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You can also get it on Amazon. At this point I feel like you aren't trying very hard...

There's zero chance you'd get a new AE buggy before this part comes in. AE didn't race a new buggy at the AE race, when they announce a vehicle there's at least a month before it actually is available for purchase, and the TLR part is available now online at shops or in a month if you want to wait for amain or horizon to have one in stock.
just ordered in Amazon. .... forgot about Amazon. That's the last place I think of when buying rc parts.... thanks.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:18 AM   #823
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Old 11-07-2016, 03:21 PM   #824
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Got to run the buggy for the first time today, wow, kit setup is dialed! Rear was a little bouncy (maybe need to break in the springs), so I switched to a LF yellow spring, but didn't touch a thing otherwise. This is the best out of the box setup I've ever driven on any vehicle. Nice job TLR!



BTW, what does a skipping belt sound like? Heard a bit of crunchy noises from the rear under power, I'll tear off the rear cover tonight and check it out. I assume it's nothing too horrendous sounding, this wasn't a skipping ball diff sound or anything that scary.
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Old 11-07-2016, 03:40 PM   #825
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Although I don't need it, I managed to pick up TLR231045 on ebay.
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