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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-02-2016, 09:40 PM   #796
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I have yet to find a good, easy way of getting that pin out myself, if anyone could share a method they use that would be great.
go to sears get a 1/16th punch. place the punch over the pin and tap it out with a small hammer etc. pushes it right out.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:15 PM   #797
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Just wondering what the deal is with the rear hexes. I see some guys running 22t front hexe and, some standard. What's the difference. Also how does the rear hub spacing work with a 4wd car or is it the same theory as wirh 2wd.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:27 PM   #798
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Thank you Chr1s and BRS , greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:54 PM   #799
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Any secrets to freeing up the steering? I have the TLR Aluminum bell crank set and Exotek steering rail and it seems like i have to back off the front belt cover screws pretty far to keep the steering from binding. Almost to the point where there is a slight gap in the belt cover.

Checked pretty much all the components such as the bearings and they all seem free. Also made sure the bearings were seated all the way in the press fit recesses.

May try the kit plastic bell cranks do see if that helps.
May people apply thread lock to their king pin screws, then when installed into the caster blocks, the thread lock works up into the shouldered part of the screw and binds up the spindle on the king pin screws. Check this.
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:02 AM   #800
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May people apply thread lock to their king pin screws, then when installed into the caster blocks, the thread lock works up into the shouldered part of the screw and binds up the spindle on the king pin screws. Check this.
In an effort to troubleshoot I started with the king pins as suggested and worked my way towards center. I had noticed from the manual that the thread lock should be installed inside the thread versus on the king pins so I didn't have any in the spindle bore but I did check the king pins just to make sure they weren't binding somehow. All was good there so I disconnected the turnbuckles and still had tight steering.

I then removed the steering rail and realized he left bell crank was perfect, but the right side bell crank was binding badly.

I'll check again to make sure the bearings are press fit correctly/compleatly and if that doesn't work I'll check the kit plastic bellcrank to see if that helps.

Thanks.

[EDIT] Issue was the upper bearing on the right side bell crank. It was not seating square in the press fit pocket molded into the fwd belt cover. I used drift to press it in square then installed the cover.

Last edited by AMessy; 11-03-2016 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 11-03-2016, 02:52 PM   #801
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Clamping rear hexes are an option part I do recommend.
Is the correct part number TLR2930 or TLR332010?

Turns out I had a set of TLR2930 in my box, and measuring them they are within 0.05mm of the stock plastic parts.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:14 PM   #802
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Just wondering what the deal is with the rear hexes. I see some guys running 22t front hexe and, some standard. What's the difference. Also how does the rear hub spacing work with a 4wd car or is it the same theory as wirh 2wd.
22t front hex is more narrow than the standard hex. If you choose to do this you will also need the 1mm axle spacer.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:37 PM   #803
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22t front hex is more narrow than the standard hex. If you choose to do this you will also need the 1mm axle spacer.
So what would be the advantages of running the 22t hex with the spacer vs the standard hex?
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:11 PM   #804
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Is the correct part number TLR2930 or TLR332010?

Turns out I had a set of TLR2930 in my box, and measuring them they are within 0.05mm of the stock plastic parts.
TLR2930 for the 2.0.
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:01 PM   #805
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Thanks, build done! Looking forward to driving it at the track Monday.

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Old 11-05-2016, 09:46 PM   #806
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Well the rear cvd's still haven't been fixed, all bound up, snapped the pin tightening it tonight, this build has been frustrating, fit and finish has not been as good as i thought it would be for a kit of this caliber, first losi in a long time, not impressed, oh well
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:54 PM   #807
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Well the rear cvd's still haven't been fixed, all bound up, snapped the pin tightening it tonight, this build has been frustrating, fit and finish has not been as good as i thought it would be for a kit of this caliber, first losi in a long time, not impressed, oh well
My cvd's were fine, pretty sure it's one of the latest batch of kits. Do you think yours was from the first batch?
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:11 PM   #808
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My cvd's were fine, pretty sure it's one of the latest batch of kits. Do you think yours was from the first batch?
Don't know, bought it last week from local track, figured I'd build it this weekend
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Old 11-05-2016, 11:13 PM   #809
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Whoops, just realized I soldered the motor wires on the outside while everyone else does the inside.
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Old 11-06-2016, 12:02 AM   #810
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Don't know, bought it last week from local track, figured I'd build it this weekend
Call up Product Support tomorrow and you'll have replacements early this week.
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