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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-31-2016, 09:59 PM   #781
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Anyone here run the clicker? I have one to install just wondering what drivers who run them think about it.
No one I know really runs the clicker. We basically did not do it from the onset of the 1.0. We did run it VERY loose with the XX4 however.

It will give a lot more off power steering and you loose a lot of stopping power as it will now have brakes like a 2wd car (rears only). For the right track it is not a bad tuning aid but most guys can get plenty of steering full time 4wd drive and the improved brake control helps with overall stability

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Thanks guys, just bought a 22-4 2.0! Looking forward to building it and driving it. I bought the buggy in part because of the great work Casper and Frank do here on rctech, so thanks guys! Time to watch some TLR build videos...
Thanks! Great car and a ton of fun. Frank and the team did a great job with the small tweaks to this car for durability and handling.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:19 AM   #782
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when running the rear shocks in front of the arms, how do you find clearence from the turnbuckle ?
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:10 AM   #783
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when running the rear shocks in front of the arms, how do you find clearence from the turnbuckle ?
can you use washers or are none of the mounting points vertical?

If not you could try moving the shims on the inner suspension hinge pin or the outer suspension hinge pin in whichthe rear hubs are mounted. this will affect the wheel base and/or weight bias, but you can also change the front to account for it as well - at that point just the weight bias would be affected, which can help you get more rear grip if you need.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:32 AM   #784
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when running the rear shocks in front of the arms, how do you find clearence from the turnbuckle ?
I have 2mm of spacers on the shock standoff and most are using the AE ball studs and cups for more clearance. Put the angled one on the inside
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:14 AM   #785
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I have 2mm of spacers on the shock standoff and most are using the AE ball studs and cups for more clearance. Put the angled one on the inside
can you show me when I get to trackside ?

and thanks for that gearing advice. my buggy was a lot faster !!
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:40 AM   #786
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can you show me when I get to trackside ?

and thanks for that gearing advice. my buggy was a lot faster !!
Yes I can and no problem
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:29 PM   #787
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I have 2mm of spacers on the shock standoff and most are using the AE ball studs and cups for more clearance. Put the angled one on the inside
Are you using B5 or B6 ball cups?
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:53 PM   #788
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Are you using B5 or B6 ball cups?
they are the HD ones 91453 you need to by the hole bag for just 2 ends,i went back to the stock way i felt no need for it
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Old 11-01-2016, 02:56 PM   #789
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Run 13.5 with us! "The Truth"
Actually have one coming just cuz I want to experience the truth! No more 2wd. Just the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth!
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:57 PM   #790
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they are the HD ones 91453 you need to by the hole bag for just 2 ends,i went back to the stock way i felt no need for it
Cool, thanks for the info.
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:22 PM   #791
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The front hex is held in place with a roll pin that goes on the outside of the hex and holds it to the bearing/spindle. It is "captured" by design.
Holy crap, you weren't kidding. That black roll pin is STUCK in the hex, it ain't ever coming out on its own.

I'm not sure I could get it out if I tried, do you guys use tiny curved needle nose pliers to get it in/centered or out?
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:46 PM   #792
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I asked about getting a stripped set screw out of the outdrive about a month ago and didn't really get any good ideas.......Luckily i found a real easy solution that should help some of you. You'll have to dust of your old 1/16th hex. Its slightly bigger than the 1.5 and I was able to get just enough bite to remove the stripped setscrew. Much better than trying to drill out the screw without damaging the diff parts.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:41 PM   #793
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Holy crap, you weren't kidding. That black roll pin is STUCK in the hex, it ain't ever coming out on its own.

I'm not sure I could get it out if I tried, do you guys use tiny curved needle nose pliers to get it in/centered or out?

I have yet to find a good, easy way of getting that pin out myself, if anyone could share a method they use that would be great.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:46 PM   #794
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I have yet to find a good, easy way of getting that pin out myself, if anyone could share a method they use that would be great.
Use a solid pin to push the roll pin out a little and grab it with pliers.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:57 PM   #795
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Any secrets to freeing up the steering? I have the TLR Aluminum bell crank set and Exotek steering rail and it seems like i have to back off the front belt cover screws pretty far to keep the steering from binding. Almost to the point where there is a slight gap in the belt cover.

Checked pretty much all the components such as the bearings and they all seem free. Also made sure the bearings were seated all the way in the press fit recesses.

May try the kit plastic bell cranks do see if that helps.
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