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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-30-2016, 12:09 PM   #766
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Just got back from an event where they had no dedicated 13.5 wheeler class and 3 of the top 5 cars in open 4 wheel had 13.5s including my 22-4 2.0....unfortunately Kyosho took the 1st & 2nd spots but 3-4-5 were 22-4 2.0s I think. I know 5th was for sure. I've never seen so many plain white bodies, including mine, on one track at the same time.
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:19 PM   #767
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Default Front pivot

Being that the front pivot is on back order I just had a little idea that I tried with mine that I want to share. This will definitely get you guys back up and running in no time. Take the 2.0 front brace and put it on the rear of the pivot. It's not a hard to do mod. If you are handy with a dremel you can do it. Just sand down the center of the pivot by the short screw so that the brace lines up with the hinge pins. Once that's complete mount the brace. Do not tighten too tight. Make sure that the arms are free. For the bumper cut a slot so that the bumper fits over the brace and secure it as normal. Finished product should look like the picture. For the front I use the 1.0 steel brace however the 2.0 brace also works as it should. Give it a try!
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:04 PM   #768
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What's a good diff setup for 13.5 ? Tight technical track
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:24 PM   #769
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the truth shall set you free
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:18 PM   #770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterheard View Post
What's a good diff setup for 13.5 ? Tight technical track
I like the kit 50/50. I tried lighter setups and like stock best so far.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:58 PM   #771
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Can I run 22-4 2.0 front arms on my 1.0? And will the rear 2.0 hubs and cva just bolt in also?
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:52 AM   #772
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Dumb question (I don't own a 22-4 yet), but are there front captured hexes? From the manual, it looks like it's held in by the pin only, and I don't see an aftermarket part.

Rear it looks like there is an optional clamping aluminum hex. Sound about right?
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:10 AM   #773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Dumb question (I don't own a 22-4 yet), but are there front captured hexes? From the manual, it looks like it's held in by the pin only, and I don't see an aftermarket part.

Rear it looks like there is an optional clamping aluminum hex. Sound about right?
Correct they are held in by a pin but they are a tight pin. No design flaw or need for an aftermarket part.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:10 AM   #774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Dumb question (I don't own a 22-4 yet), but are there front captured hexes? From the manual, it looks like it's held in by the pin only, and I don't see an aftermarket part.

Rear it looks like there is an optional clamping aluminum hex. Sound about right?
The front hex is held in place with a roll pin that goes on the outside of the hex and holds it to the bearing/spindle. It is "captured" by design.

Clamping rear hexes are an option part I do recommend.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:03 PM   #775
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Thanks guys, just bought a 22-4 2.0! Looking forward to building it and driving it. I bought the buggy in part because of the great work Casper and Frank do here on rctech, so thanks guys! Time to watch some TLR build videos...
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:16 PM   #776
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Finally got my hands on front pivots...thanks Frank Root for all the updates as!
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:22 PM   #777
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Anyone here run the clicker? I have one to install just wondering what drivers who run them think about it.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:13 PM   #778
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Car is fun to drive...By far my favorite class to drive might even sell my 8th scale to get a mod 22-4.

I had servo issues all night while racing. When I got home found the servo wires severed. I run the SPEKTRUM S6240 servo. I think the servo is too short and the wire harness is causing the damage. What can I do?
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:29 PM   #779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGTIME View Post
Car is fun to drive...By far my favorite class to drive might even sell my 8th scale to get a mod 22-4.

I had servo issues all night while racing. When I got home found the servo wires severed. I run the SPEKTRUM S6240 servo. I think the servo is too short and the wire harness is causing the damage. What can I do?
Ryan dunford has a video on YouTube on how to do it. but basically you just cut the boot, fold the wire down and glue it to the bottom of the servo
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:53 PM   #780
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Thanks
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