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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-27-2016, 12:26 PM   #751
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okay cool...thanks guys
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:56 PM   #752
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I know they will, however they are on back order.
We have some in product support for sure, I just had them in my hands. PM me your Name, Phone Number, and email, and we'll get you squared away.
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:11 PM   #753
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I'm doing a routine maintenance disassembly and everything looks great, my only question is that he belt tension still seems tight( I have the kit setup tension). I run a 6.5 and was told to leave it this way for low turn motors, however it just seems too tight. Is anybody running looser tension that the kit setup with a 6.5 or 5.5 motor? I run at OCRC so a medium to height bite clay track.

Thanks
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:05 PM   #754
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I've been there....what does that have to do with you being faster and more consistent with a 13.5? All you need to do is go to one of the big races like the JBRL and you'll see that the 13.5 wheelers are about the same speed as the full mod buggies. Keeping in mind that open 4 whl is at a minimum an expert class. Most guys running a big motor just can't handle it. A 13.5 wheeler is like a stock buggy with killer traction. You can stay on it all the time. You can't do that with a 6.5.

Casper is sponsored by TLR. What's he running in the JBRLs?
First time racing in 20 years last Friday. They ran a mixed group mod and 13.5 4wd. I got 2nd place with 13.5.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:06 AM   #755
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It depends of the tracks
Big motor is not only more power but also more brake
For some very high grip tracks (like carpet), it could be useful with an heavy car.
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:15 AM   #756
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Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I'm doing a routine maintenance disassembly and everything looks great, my only question is that he belt tension still seems tight( I have the kit setup tension). I run a 6.5 and was told to leave it this way for low turn motors, however it just seems too tight. Is anybody running looser tension that the kit setup with a 6.5 or 5.5 motor? I run at OCRC so a medium to height bite clay track.

Thanks
Leave the kit belt settings in it. When Tyler ran for TLR, his 1.0 was ran for entire season on kit belts and we did a ton of racing. All we did is have a spare front and rear diff ready to swap out when the others needed rebuilt and that wasn't that often. That car took a lot of punishment from Tyler and only ever broke each front arm once. Heck, we even ran plastic steering posts and and Ackerman bar clear until end of that season and the square piece finally broke on steering arm. Best car on market still in our eyes!!
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:16 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I'm doing a routine maintenance disassembly and everything looks great, my only question is that he belt tension still seems tight( I have the kit setup tension). I run a 6.5 and was told to leave it this way for low turn motors, however it just seems too tight. Is anybody running looser tension that the kit setup with a 6.5 or 5.5 motor? I run at OCRC so a medium to height bite clay track.

Thanks
The team all runs 0 side and B-back in the rear for mod.
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:20 AM   #758
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Amain shows the pivot brace as in stock. Just snagged 2 for my parts box this morning . FYI . . .
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:25 AM   #759
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Originally Posted by BIGTIME View Post
So what are guys doing to the rear CVA's to get them free. I would like to finish building my kit and it's no way the car will be fun to drive with this type of binding. Made a call and they are on BO without an ETA.
I am pretty disappointed about that.
Same issue for me, i built them last night and they are binding badly.. not sure if i have to reorder new sets ...maybe ask horizon for a new set..

Also, i know it's another quick question would be what are the wheels compatible with the 22-4 ?
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:09 AM   #760
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Ok, thanks Frank.

I just checked Amain and they say out of stock for TLR231045. I hope there are more following soon.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:13 AM   #761
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Ok, thanks Frank.

I just checked Amain and they say out of stock for TLR231045. I hope there are more following soon.
We still have more, they're just allocated, waiting on dealers to release their back orders
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:21 AM   #762
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For the guys running 13.5 what should we set the tension for on the buggy?
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:32 AM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I'm doing a routine maintenance disassembly and everything looks great, my only question is that he belt tension still seems tight( I have the kit setup tension). I run a 6.5 and was told to leave it this way for low turn motors, however it just seems too tight. Is anybody running looser tension that the kit setup with a 6.5 or 5.5 motor? I run at OCRC so a medium to height bite clay track.

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:40 AM   #764
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Run 13.5 with us! "The Truth"
The whole Truth and nuthin but the Truth.

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Old 10-29-2016, 01:35 PM   #765
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You can't handle the Truth!
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