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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-13-2016, 09:11 PM   #61
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Ok, im not the most experienced guy on here yet but im gettin better each time out. Having said that, I love my 224 and durability wise it has been fine I think and considering that it has had to endure my learning curve I have broken 1 front arm so far and a rear universal. Hopefully I havent just cursed my car! LOL!

With that said, the 2.0 looks nice but I think that it is BS that TLR didn't make the gear diffs a drop in fit for the 1.0. Hopefully the front arms are a bolt on fit but considering the direction of most manufacturers today they probably don't fit either!

In any case not sure if I am gonna upgrade yet or not because I really like my 224 as it is right now. Hopefully TLR possibly puts together an upgrade kit for those that just wanna possibly upgrade there current car.

Something with the gear diffs, rear hubs, cva's, etc....

Either way can't wait to see this when my buddy gets his built!

Yo, turtle!! Next time you tear your front diff out, take a close look at at the clearances b/t the front pulley/diff side of the outdrives, & where hole in the chassis/front pivot, & case.
The FACT they engineered a durable gear diff that only increased the width on the diff assembly 1mm per side (inside of outdrive bearing to opposite outdrive bearing) is a miracle! Shuey diffs aren't that narrow.
Hence, and I'm presuming that the hole in the chassis that the diff assembly sits inside, in the 1.0 & Shorty Chassis, would have to be mod'd slightly for the gear diff to fit. I'm guessing this is the main reason they could be drop-in ready for the 1.0 car.
I do not have a 2.0 parts in hand to be certain of this though.

Btw: you may want to take a hard look at the 2.0 adjustment inserts + gear diff on a 1.0 rear.... I know I will be shortly ;-)

Ps: just buy the new car! You know you wanna! You know you're going to! Don't fight. It feels kinda right don't it... Lol
Dude, I will be getting one. You can't beat the price for all quirks your getting. And way cheaper than a 22 3.0 laydown :-)

Last edited by Beau S; 05-13-2016 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:33 AM   #62
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I'm pretty sure it was! Maybe not what will be boxed in the kit, but a 2.0 nonetheless.

His care looked good when the track was insane traction, & even more impressive Sat/sun when we all started cussing it going slick.

The new diffs worked on both conditions!
Yeah that thing was OFF THE CHAIN and SHUT THE FRONT DOOR fast!
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:29 AM   #63
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any idea of the overall weight (rtr) ??
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:55 AM   #64
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Yo, turtle!! Next time you tear your front diff out, take a close look at at the clearances b/t the front pulley/diff side of the outdrives, & where hole in the chassis/front pivot, & case.
The FACT they engineered a durable gear diff that only increased the width on the diff assembly 1mm per side (inside of outdrive bearing to opposite outdrive bearing) is a miracle! Shuey diffs aren't that narrow.
Hence, and I'm presuming that the hole in the chassis that the diff assembly sits inside, in the 1.0 & Shorty Chassis, would have to be mod'd slightly for the gear diff to fit. I'm guessing this is the main reason they could be drop-in ready for the 1.0 car.
I do not have a 2.0 parts in hand to be certain of this though.

Btw: you may want to take a hard look at the 2.0 adjustment inserts + gear diff on a 1.0 rear.... I know I will be shortly ;-)

Ps: just buy the new car! You know you wanna! You know you're going to! Don't fight. It feels kinda right don't it... Lol
Dude, I will be getting one. You can't beat the price for all quirks your getting. And way cheaper than a 22 3.0 laydown :-)
Yeah, I hear ya! I am probably gonna get one as well and just keep the 1.0! I like it that much and our track here is kinda wishy washy with traction at times.

Maybe all that has to be done is a little work with a file to get them to fit but I would guess that the locations for the screws are probably different if the housings are a bit wider.

I will just upgrade most likely!
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:06 AM   #65
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Yeah, I hear ya! I am probably gonna get one as well and just keep the 1.0! I like it that much and our track here is kinda wishy washy with traction at times.

Maybe all that has to be done is a little work with a file to get them to fit but I would guess that the locations for the screws are probably different if the housings are a bit wider.

I will just upgrade most likely!
The 2.0 uses the same front tower, so the screw holes "should" be the same.

I'll have new front parts, when they are released, to check. I really like my shorty chassis w/cooling hole, so if it's simply remove a lil material for the new pieces to work, then it's worth it to me.

Based on reading posts, website, & the Q&A vid, my understanding is they had to mod the bearing holders to comp for the slightly wider width.
Done by the inserts in the rear & front housing & cover..

I meant to ask Frank, what they change in the slipper shaft? The 2.0 has its own part.
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:54 PM   #66
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The 2.0 uses the same front tower, so the screw holes "should" be the same.

I'll have new front parts, when they are released, to check. I really like my shorty chassis w/cooling hole, so if it's simply remove a lil material for the new pieces to work, then it's worth it to me.

Based on reading posts, website, & the Q&A vid, my understanding is they had to mod the bearing holders to comp for the slightly wider width.
Done by the inserts in the rear & front housing & cover..

I meant to ask Frank, what they change in the slipper shaft? The 2.0 has its own part.
Well Beau, I hope that your right but I have a feeling that there is a bigger difference. One thing that I wish they did but don't seem to have addressed is the front belts durability! I haven't broken one yet but they don't seem to last very long! Aside from that I really like what they have done with the 2.0. Yeah im bummed about the gear diffs not being compatible with the 1.0 according to Frank but otherwise the new car looks AWESOME!

Hopefully the 2.0 lives up to our lofty expectations!
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:58 PM   #67
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any idea of the overall weight (rtr) ??
Noticed a couple of people have asked this question but no answer yet? (unless I missed it). So does anyone know if the 2.0 is lighter than the 1.0?
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:23 PM   #68
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Well it's a nice ride for sure but now I am not as upset with AE for taking so long for their new wheeler as long as they make many more improvements than TLR did. Here comes the flamessss
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:02 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by ASH93A View Post
Noticed a couple of people have asked this question but no answer yet? (unless I missed it). So does anyone know if the 2.0 is lighter than the 1.0?
I believe it's real close to being the same.
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:59 AM   #70
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Does the 22-4 take a regular sized servo or a low profile servo? Or will it take either?
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:37 AM   #71
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Does the 22-4 take a regular sized servo or a low profile servo? Or will it take either?
Either should be fine.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:26 AM   #72
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Does anyone know which Diff oil you should buy the for New 22-4 2.0...??
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:29 AM   #73
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Does anyone know which Diff oil you should buy the for New 22-4 2.0...??
Stock setup is 50K, I think Frank said it would be a good idea to have 10, 15, 30, 40, 50 if you wanted to be ready for anything. TLR is also going to be releasing additional thicker weights.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:40 AM   #74
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New to 4wd buggy. Always loved TLR. First buggy was an 90 Losi JRX2 and would like to get another Losi. What does the Losi 22.4 have over the others, and specifically the Xray XB4? thx
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:42 AM   #75
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Frank,

can you give a breakdown on what is needed to convert to gear diff's . . . maybe even 1.0 to 2.0?

thx
2x Gear Diffs, Rear/Center belt covers, front belt covers, chassis, front pivot, pin brace and bumper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle Speed View Post
With that said, the 2.0 looks nice but I think that it is BS that TLR didn't make the gear diffs a drop in fit for the 1.0. Hopefully the front arms are a bolt on fit but considering the direction of most manufacturers today they probably don't fit either!

In any case not sure if I am gonna upgrade yet or not because I really like my 224 as it is right now. Hopefully TLR possibly puts together an upgrade kit for those that just wanna possibly upgrade there current car.

Something with the gear diffs, rear hubs, cva's, etc....

Either way can't wait to see this when my buddy gets his built!
Trust me, we'd have loved to have been able to design a gear diff that would drop in the 1.0, but the actual physical and mechanical engineering we know just simply would not allow it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
Does anyone know if the bell cranks and steering parts are the same?
Yes, the bell cranks, servo horns, bell cranks, etc. are all the same.
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