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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-24-2016, 08:18 AM   #706
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So if your car is diving in too hard, and hooked exiting, you would thicken the front diff oil? And if your car is entering perfect, but over rotating on exit, you would thicken the rear diff oil?
For me, thickening the rear oil always tightens up the car, and thinning it loosens the car.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:15 AM   #707
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Flipping the arms over but leaving them on the same side? Or flip sides also? I don't know if the left and right arms are exactly the same yet... I just ordered my kit a week ago. It should be at my LHS by Thursday.
Just rotate the left to right. I don't think you can flip them upside down without something hitting as there is some clearance for the bones if I remember right so just put L on R and R on L.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:50 AM   #708
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That would make it break much easier. Harder = more brittle/less give before breaking.
Fair enough my good man . . .
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Old 10-24-2016, 12:40 PM   #709
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For me, thickening the rear oil always tightens up the car, and thinning it loosens the car.
Tightens = stable? And loosens = sensitive ?
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Old 10-24-2016, 02:22 PM   #710
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Tightens = stable? And loosens = sensitive ?
http://www.nascar.com/en_us/sprint-c...oose-cars.html
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:19 PM   #711
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Thanks. So you haver to be in between loose and tight base on your driving style. Which diff Oil wts. in the rear and front gear diff buggy can give you an "in between loose and tight" then?
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:58 PM   #712
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Thanks. So you haver to be in between loose and tight base on your driving style. Which diff Oil wts. in the rear and front gear diff buggy can give you an "in between loose and tight" then?
David that is correct. By going to a lighter oil in the front diff you should have more steering on entry whereas a thicker front diff should give more on power steering. Also like Frank already mentioned a thicker rear diff will tighten the car up or in other words give more rear traction.

As of right now it seems that most of the team runs anywhere between 20-50k in the front and rear diffs. I personally run 100k front and rear and really like it will still having plenty of steering.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:26 PM   #713
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anybody have a manual with diagrams on how to install the one-way cicker set on the buggy?
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:26 PM   #714
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David that is correct. By going to a lighter oil in the front diff you should have more steering on entry whereas a thicker front diff should give more on power steering. Also like Frank already mentioned a thicker rear diff will tighten the car up or in other words give more rear traction.

As of right now it seems that most of the team runs anywhere between 20-50k in the front and rear diffs. I personally run 100k front and rear and really like it will still having plenty of steering.
thanks. I assume this response was directed to me.
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:14 AM   #715
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anybody have a manual with diagrams on how to install the one-way cicker set on the buggy?
Team Losi Racing/ Tech Tip – TLR 22-4 (One-Way Clicker Assembly)

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Old 10-25-2016, 07:35 AM   #716
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Thank you for the previous replies, i'm also wondering what part i could reuse from the Support Kit made for the 22-4 ?

Do the arms, belts and spindle are the same?

Thanks,
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:55 AM   #717
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Front pivots should be in this week.


Just in time for the big race thanks Frank!
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:26 AM   #718
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Quote:
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For me, thickening the rear oil always tightens up the car, and thinning it loosens the car.
All other things the same, I can see that... Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Just rotate the left to right. I don't think you can flip them upside down without something hitting as there is some clearance for the bones if I remember right so just put L on R and R on L.
Copy, like they are sitting on a disk, just rotate 180.

Quote:
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As of right now it seems that most of the team runs anywhere between 20-50k in the front and rear diffs. I personally run 100k front and rear and really like it will still having plenty of steering.
I am guessing the rest of your set up is to compliment the thick diff oil or are you saying you run this diff oil config on the kit stock setup? Is this on a super sticky track?

Thanks all!

Tom
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:49 AM   #719
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yep
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:26 PM   #720
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All other things the same, I can see that... Thank you.



Copy, like they are sitting on a disk, just rotate 180.



I am guessing the rest of your set up is to compliment the thick diff oil or are you saying you run this diff oil config on the kit stock setup? Is this on a super sticky track?

Thanks all!

Tom
This is something I ran across running slicks at the JConcepts Summer Indoor Nationals this year. To me it made the car less twitchy and easier to drive. I've tried other oils on tread and have gone back to 100k. As in terms of setup my car is really close to kit setup majority of the time with the exception of 15 degree caster blocks and 3 degree toe block.
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