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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-16-2016, 08:10 PM   #661
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@SickNT760, the original horizontal 1.0 rear block works, and has the same mounting points as the newer 2.0 vertical block. The Exotek block is horizontal as well, like the 1.0, but has two additional lower holes, for more rotation. The TLR vertical block came out as an option for the 1.0 and is now standard on the 2.0. To get the same lower mounting holes like the Exotek, you simply remove the 1mm spacers from the vertical block, ya follow? So the 2.0 vertical block works, but you can snap a stud off, but yes, buy the Exotek, and you'll have the mounting points from a 2.0 vertical block.
Thank you for the information. I was really stumped for a little bit on if there was a huge difference in the two. I am going to try out the Exotek and see how I like it. I am still a novice at this hobby but I have been having a blast at doing it.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:54 AM   #662
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Who has a front pivot they want to sell?
Use a 1.0 front pivot and carefully dremel it . . . that about all you can do . . . until the parts start arriving . . .
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:07 AM   #663
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Use a 1.0 front pivot and carefully dremel it . . . that about all you can do . . . until the parts start arriving . . .
I'm guessing/hoping/praying they have been out of stock because TLR is letting the old (a.k.a weak) part circulate out of stock (which we all know is the case now) because they are making an improved version to re-distribute?
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:21 AM   #664
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This car has been in short supply for some time local hobby shop can't get any until some time next month. Is the kit being updated or something?

Frank?
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #665
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I'm guessing/hoping/praying they have been out of stock because TLR is letting the old (a.k.a weak) part circulate out of stock (which we all know is the case now) because they are making an improved version to re-distribute?
No update to this part. It takes a warranted hit to break it. Infact, you can take a much harder hit on the front end than the 1.0 before breaking. The front pivots didn't break on the 1.0 often, but the arms did frequently. Now, the weakest spot is the pivot, but it takes a lot move to break it.

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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
This car has been in short supply for some time local hobby shop can't get any until some time next month. Is the kit being updated or something?

Frank?
No updates to the kit, they've just sold better than we ordered
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:11 AM   #666
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No updates to the kit, they've just sold better than we ordered

that is a good issue to have
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:31 PM   #667
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No update to this part. It takes a warranted hit to break it. Infact, you can take a much harder hit on the front end than the 1.0 before breaking. The front pivots didn't break on the 1.0 often, but the arms did frequently. Now, the weakest spot is the pivot, but it takes a lot move to break it.
I can attest to this. I've put a ton of laps onto my 22-4 and have yet to break a front arm. In fact, my track had a high speed jump that you kind of jumped into the face of that completely compressed the suspension. The inner pivots (the part that always breaks) are worn down significantly, but the arms keep coming back in one piece. Im sure this post will jinx me and ill break two laps into my next pack, but I'm still impressed by how much more durable the front arms are now. Ive also not broken a rear arm either. I managed to break them fairly frequently on the 1.0. I guess part of the reason is temperature. I race in Ohio and when it's cold out, arms get really brittle and break much easier. Let see how the 2.0 parts hold up in a few months when its 10 degrees out and 45 degrees on the track.

As for the bulkhead; i inspected mine after 3 months of heavy use and no breakage, but lots of slop. There were hairline cracks on both sides and it was only a matter of time before it failed. I installed my spare and CA'd the cracks for a backup until TLR ships new bulkheads.

I was hoping that TLR was going to beef up the bulkhead slightly and that was the reason for the delay, but I guess not.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:59 PM   #668
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I find the car durable. I let a buddy of mine drive mine for a few laps Saturday. He missed the triple badly and the front went right in the stake holding the pipe down. Thought for sure it broke but the car drove away. I'm impressed
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:14 PM   #669
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I'm in the middle of building the front diff and cannot for the life of me get it turning smoothly. I've taken it apart 5 times now. Couple of times it was completely locked up. Right now I got it to spin, but I can feel the gears. The rear went together the first time and is smooth with no binding.
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:32 PM   #670
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I'm in the middle of building the front diff and cannot for the life of me get it turning smoothly. I've taken it apart 5 times now. Couple of times it was completely locked up. Right now I got it to spin, but I can feel the gears. The rear went together the first time and is smooth with no binding.
When the diffs go together new, you can't have the outdrives tight against the diff case or it will bind them up. I took a .5mm shim and put it between the outdrives and case and then it spun freely. Also, the diffs will have a slightly notchy feeling to them when they are new.

Both myself and my buddy spit a rear outdrive off the rear diff after 3 or 4 packs. Despite loc-tite on the grub screw, both of us had them come loose. Luckily we found them on the track. I noticed that when I pulled the rear end apart to put the outdrive back on the diff, that I could now snug the outdrive against the diff case and the diff spun freely.

I also noticed that there was significantly less of a notchy feeling to the diff. After reinstalling the outdrives on to the diff with a generous amount of loc-tite, I've not lost an outdrive since then. It seems that this car just needs a few packs run through it to run the drive train in and loosen everything up.
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:52 PM   #671
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When the diffs go together new, you can't have the outdrives tight against the diff case or it will bind them up. I took a .5mm shim and put it between the outdrives and case and then it spun freely. Also, the diffs will have a slightly notchy feeling to them when they are new.

Both myself and my buddy spit a rear outdrive off the rear diff after 3 or 4 packs. Despite loc-tite on the grub screw, both of us had them come loose. Luckily we found them on the track. I noticed that when I pulled the rear end apart to put the outdrive back on the diff, that I could now snug the outdrive against the diff case and the diff spun freely.

I also noticed that there was significantly less of a notchy feeling to the diff. After reinstalling the outdrives on to the diff with a generous amount of loc-tite, I've not lost an outdrive since then. It seems that this car just needs a few packs run through it to run the drive train in and loosen everything up.
I've loosened up the outdrives a touch and it feel a little bit better but still notchy like you said. I was just worried I didn't build it correctly since the rear is so smooth. I'll complete the build and run it a few pack for it to break in.

Thanks
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:58 PM   #672
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I've loosened up the outdrives a touch and it feel a little bit better but still notchy like you said. I was just worried I didn't build it correctly since the rear is so smooth. I'll complete the build and run it a few pack for it to break in.

Thanks
I did the same thing when I built my kit. I rebuilt both the front and rear several time until I felt it was as smooth as I could get them, but they weren't perfect. I'm used to building the 1/8 gear diffs which feel buttery smooth even when new. I texted a few buddies who had built the kit to check with them and they told me the same thing, that theirs felt a bit notchy when new as well. I felt much better after having to reassemble my lost outdrive when I noticed the diff was almost perfectly smooth after 4 packs.
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:10 AM   #673
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Is there any way to know if the kit at my LHS has the updated drive shafts? By the model number or something?

TIA
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:17 AM   #674
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
No update to this part. It takes a warranted hit to break it. Infact, you can take a much harder hit on the front end than the 1.0 before breaking. The front pivots didn't break on the 1.0 often, but the arms did frequently. Now, the weakest spot is the pivot, but it takes a lot move to break it.



No updates to the kit, they've just sold better than we ordered
Any possibility of making the front pivot out of the Stiffezel material ? Just thinking out loud . . . not sure if it is an option . . .

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Old 10-18-2016, 11:27 AM   #675
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You may be able to tell by serial number if you knew when they came in. Not sure if TLR marked the box at all. I think Horizon CS has bones if yours are bad. Mine broke in fine after the first few runs.
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