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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-12-2016, 02:04 PM   #646
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Frank and insight as to what you guys did at R/C excitement setup wise this past weekend? That is my home track and I always like to see what the team drivers come up with..

Thanks
Bump...
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:06 PM   #647
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Bump...
I'll post setups once I get them back from Max.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:34 PM   #648
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I'll post setups once I get them back from Max.

Great, as always thanks for the support!
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:01 PM   #649
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A will have more steering overall, but less mid corner.

B will have a smoother steering feel, and more mid corner steering.

The team runs B 100% of the time over the last 18 months or so, so that one is a safe bet
Thanks for the response Frank..
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:06 PM   #650
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I'm going to switch to a 22-4 2.0 once they come back in stock and have a couple of questions that I wasn't able to find answers to in this thread or on FB.

What size is the thread on the tie rods? I'm used to M3 threads on my AE cars and on my Tamiya cars. I want to make sure I have the correct left hand tap size on hand to thread the ball cups. I have a suspicion the TLR tie rods are larger based on some info I've dug up but would like it confirmed.

Also would a 22-4 1.0 chassis protector fit the 2.0 chassis? I haven't seen where 2.0 chassis protectors have been called out and it seems like horizons own side shows the 1.0 chassis protector under the 2.0 option parts. Just looking for confirmation that the above is correct since i know the actual chassis plates are different between versions.

Thanks.
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:32 PM   #651
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The 1.0 chassis protectors fits perfect and I'm pretty sure the turnbuckles are M3, but don't quote me on that one.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:10 PM   #652
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What's the part number for the aluminum rear hubs? Thanks
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:29 AM   #653
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Originally Posted by AMessy View Post
I'm going to switch to a 22-4 2.0 once they come back in stock and have a couple of questions that I wasn't able to find answers to in this thread or on FB.

What size is the thread on the tie rods? I'm used to M3 threads on my AE cars and on my Tamiya cars. I want to make sure I have the correct left hand tap size on hand to thread the ball cups. I have a suspicion the TLR tie rods are larger based on some info I've dug up but would like it confirmed.

Also would a 22-4 1.0 chassis protector fit the 2.0 chassis? I haven't seen where 2.0 chassis protectors have been called out and it seems like horizons own side shows the 1.0 chassis protector under the 2.0 option parts. Just looking for confirmation that the above is correct since i know the actual chassis plates are different between versions.

Thanks.
1.0 chassis protector fits, the chassis has the same outline. The turnbuckles are an M3.5 thread.

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What's the part number for the aluminum rear hubs? Thanks
TLR334014, but it has one less hole on the inside.
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:31 AM   #654
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Originally Posted by ChrisUU View Post
I'm 76/28

Only running motor timing.


17.5 is slow stock class for 4wd.
How much motor timing do you use?
I'm adding only boost to the motor through the esc
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Old 10-14-2016, 05:05 AM   #655
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Is the new 22-4 2.0 alot better than the older 22-4
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:37 AM   #656
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Is the new 22-4 2.0 alot better than the older 22-4
I've got both. I wouldn't say alot better. To me both are the same just the gear diffs and 22 rear suspension make a slight improvement. You can put the 22 rear suspension on the 1.0 with no modification. Yet both cars are very good. The new front bulkhead on the 2.0 is the weak link on this car.
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Old 10-14-2016, 05:34 PM   #657
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Who has a front pivot they want to sell?
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:19 PM   #658
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Week #2 and win #2. The car is still planted and predictable. This week I ran against fast guys. One local fast guy had me by a second a lap but something happened to his esc and his car shut down. The other faster guy was .4 faster but he made a lot of mistakes and I cruised in for a relatively easy win. The car is still all stock, no upgrades yet.
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Old 10-16-2016, 03:39 AM   #659
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Will there be any issues if go with a horizontal ball stud mount on a rear camber block? Should I stay with the vertical ball mount that comes standard on the 2.0? I am asking because I somehow snapped the stock rear camber block this past week and found that Exotek makes some thicker looking rear camber blocks but only with the 1.0 style. The part number that I am referring to is TLR334026. Thanks again for your time guys, I knew that it was handling weird for some odd reason then snap it's down for the count. Oh and BTW my 22 3.0 is coming along nicely should have it done later this week to take out on the track. And one last thing the track that i run on is a medium/high bite clay track.

Last edited by SickNT760; 10-16-2016 at 03:41 AM. Reason: needed to add some info
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:02 AM   #660
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@SickNT760, the original horizontal 1.0 rear block works, and has the same mounting points as the newer 2.0 vertical block. The Exotek block is horizontal as well, like the 1.0, but has two additional lower holes, for more rotation. The TLR vertical block came out as an option for the 1.0 and is now standard on the 2.0. To get the same lower mounting holes like the Exotek, you simply remove the 1mm spacers from the vertical block, ya follow? So the 2.0 vertical block works, but you can snap a stud off, but yes, buy the Exotek, and you'll have the mounting points from a 2.0 vertical block.
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