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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-09-2016, 02:00 AM   #631
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What gearing should I use with a 17.5 boosted motor?
Using an LRP Flow and X12 motor.

I'm currently at 76/25 but would like some more speed on the straight.
Motor get 70C, when it's hot outside around 77-80C
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:24 AM   #632
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What color away bar does the kit come with or does it come with all the colors?
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:53 AM   #633
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Comes with pink rear
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:38 AM   #634
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With the kit setting on the rear belt tension, seems like the car has like to much drag brake. Anyone tried to loosen the rear belt to allow the car to more free roll?
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:51 AM   #635
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One more question. Do the universals from the 1.0 fit the new buggy?
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:48 PM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Martijn View Post
What gearing should I use with a 17.5 boosted motor?
Using an LRP Flow and X12 motor.

I'm currently at 76/25 but would like some more speed on the straight.
Motor get 70C, when it's hot outside around 77-80C
I'm 76/28

Only running motor timing.


17.5 is slow stock class for 4wd.
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:51 PM   #637
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
With the kit setting on the rear belt tension, seems like the car has like to much drag brake. Anyone tried to loosen the rear belt to allow the car to more free roll?

I loosened it up, dropping two sizes. It was a lot more free. However I am not running mod. If running mod I suggest staying with the suggested kit belt tension.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:33 PM   #638
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Just want to follow up with my review. My first time out racing I was able to run the hot lap, TQ, and win this last Friday night. I managed that with 10 laps of total practice with the car. I'll have to caveat that by admitting none of the super fast guys were out. Just us sportsman guys. The car is just super stable. It doesn't have the steering that my XB4 2016 has but it makes up for it by being easy to drive. I find myself having to brake more aggressively to get the car to turn hard but its so darn smooth. With a 13.5, the stock spur, and a 29 pinion it feels perfect. I wasn't sure that I'd like the car so I cheaped out on some of the electronics.....along with my KO servo I'm running the new HW XR10 Justock speedo and a Bandit 13.5 motor. It's perfect. You'd never think that a $50 speedo would work that good but it does (I did put the HW 3.1 capacitor on though). This car has a lot of potential. Considering that I am the track shop and don't carry TLR anything that says a lot. I'm actually doing myself a disservice by liking, and recommending, something that I don't carry.
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:00 AM   #639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
One more question. Do the universals from the 1.0 fit the new buggy?
No, you can run the 22 buggy Universals with the 1mm axle shim installed.

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Old 10-11-2016, 12:14 PM   #640
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Frank and insight as to what you guys did at R/C excitement setup wise this past weekend? That is my home track and I always like to see what the team drivers come up with..

Thanks
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:48 PM   #641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
No, you can run the 22 buggy Universals with the 1mm axle shim installed.

TLR232006
Frank, is that for both front and back you would need the 22 universals or just rear?
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:22 PM   #642
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Frank, is that for both front and back you would need the 22 universals or just rear?
That's for the rear. The 1.0 front UJ's will fit great.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:40 PM   #643
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Hi guys i need help with a basic setup for turf and carpet anybof you guys run the 22-4 2.0 on that surface thanks in advance
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:53 PM   #644
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What is the difference between the A and B Ackermann setting?? How will the car feel different between the two??
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:32 AM   #645
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What is the difference between the A and B Ackermann setting?? How will the car feel different between the two??
A will have more steering overall, but less mid corner.

B will have a smoother steering feel, and more mid corner steering.

The team runs B 100% of the time over the last 18 months or so, so that one is a safe bet
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