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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-22-2016, 07:52 PM   #586
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When I broke the front pivot, the steel brace and hinge pins were fine. Kind of weird just the pivot broke.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:16 PM   #587
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Any word on the new revised rear a-arms? Allowing easy a-arm flipping w/o drilling?
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:09 AM   #588
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Originally Posted by BLbound View Post
Any word on the new revised rear a-arms? Allowing easy a-arm flipping w/o drilling?
It's a running change, no hard dates. It's two holes, pretty much the easiest mod ever though.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:39 AM   #589
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...Hey Frank some angled ball cups to mount onto the vertical ball stud mount to go with the new arms would be nice as well!
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:22 PM   #590
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
...Hey Frank some angled ball cups to mount onto the vertical ball stud mount to go with the new arms would be nice as well!
My vote would be to redesign the rear shock tower to allow a vertical ball stud mount to be mounted at the rear of the tower like on the 22 3.0
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:52 PM   #591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
It's a running change, no hard dates. It's two holes, pretty much the easiest mod ever though.
Cool, thanks for the info Frank! And yes, angled ball cups would be sweet...I REALLY don't want to use those "other" angled ball cups...
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Old 09-26-2016, 06:55 PM   #592
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My vote would be to redesign the rear shock tower to allow a vertical ball stud mount to be mounted at the rear of the tower like on the 22 3.0
This is also a good idea!
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:40 PM   #593
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If anyone here is running the aluminum pullys, did it make your car louder?
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:08 PM   #594
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
If anyone here is running the aluminum pullys, did it make your car louder?
Why would it? metal on metal (pinion and ring gear) would make it louder in which this is not the case. There should be no change in noise.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:54 AM   #595
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Default diff oil help

what diff oils are most of you running on a small tight turn wet clay track running slicks? i am getting ready to build another set uf diffs for the indoor track.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:47 AM   #596
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what diff oils are most of you running on a small tight turn wet clay track running slicks? i am getting ready to build another set uf diffs for the indoor track.
30 front, 40 rear. Sometimes, 30/30
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Old 09-29-2016, 05:49 AM   #597
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30 front, 40 rear. Sometimes, 30/30
what handling difference will we see with this diff oil setup as opposed to the stock 50 50??
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:39 AM   #598
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what handling difference will we see with this diff oil setup as opposed to the stock 50 50??
Quicker rotation.
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:53 AM   #599
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I'm still running 50/50 diff fluid in mine, I run at OCRC, if I dropped the front diff to 40 would I see much of a difference in rotation or would I need to go down to 30? car runs awesome..just looking for a little more rotation.

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:24 PM   #600
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I ran 30K front at OCRC to start and I went back to 50K and liked it better. 30K actually made the rear a little less stable and the 50K front helped the car with better acceleration out of the corners.
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