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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-12-2016, 04:56 PM   #46
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There probably wont be an upgrade kit coming...history says they don't sell well. It would be best for those want to upgrade to the 2.0 to sell your current car for some $$....put some $$ with it and get the 2.0. There is the benefit of new pulleys/belts/bearings/driveshafts etc. with a new kit.
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:42 PM   #47
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I really don't think there will be a durability issue with the new diffs. I've seen them firsthand and they look superb
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:00 PM   #48
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I'm curious if JR had the 2.0 at the Judge race? Because it looked really good! But JR was driving it and he is pretty good!
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:01 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Turtle Speed View Post
Ok, im not the most experienced guy on here yet but im gettin better each time out. Having said that, I love my 224 and durability wise it has been fine I think and considering that it has had to endure my learning curve I have broken 1 front arm so far and a rear universal. Hopefully I havent just cursed my car! LOL!

With that said, the 2.0 looks nice but I think that it is BS that TLR didn't make the gear diffs a drop in fit for the 1.0. Hopefully the front arms are a bolt on fit but considering the direction of most manufacturers today they probably don't fit either!

In any case not sure if I am gonna upgrade yet or not because I really like my 224 as it is right now. Hopefully TLR possibly puts together an upgrade kit for those that just wanna possibly upgrade there current car.

Something with the gear diffs, rear hubs, cva's, etc....

Either way can't wait to see this when my buddy gets his built!
I realize that you're only flaming in a positive way, but I doubt they'd get the full benefits of a new design by making the new diffs drop in. Somehow, I'm pretty sure you'd get a compromised design and you'd be less inclined to upgrade.

But yes, would have been great if they could have done that AND achieved their design and improvement goals.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:20 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Was the front belt cover the only thing that people had an issue with maintenance wise? Is there any way to adjust front belt tension on the 2.0?
There was an updated front belt cover released for the 1.0 that included a spacer that adjusted front belt tension, one front tension setting now works for pretty much any motor (this is the + cover with the "0" spacers).

The front belt cover wasn't a particularly bad part of maintenance, the real issue was that you had to remove both the front and rear belt covers to get at the center cover -- changing a spur meant taking pretty much the entire car apart. On the 2.0 it sounds like the rear cover is now independant, but you'll still need to remove the front cover to get the middle cover off.

75% of the time I've been in my 1.0's drivetrain has been due to crunchy worn out ball diffs, having the new gear diffs should mean a lot less maintenance in general. Easier to access belt covers are just icing on the cake for when you do blow a bearing, belt, or pulley
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:30 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by hobbipro View Post
So will the new belt covers fit the old chassis? Holes in the same places, or is it a totally new chassis with different hole locations? That's what I'm mainly wanting right now.
It's a new chassis, the new belt covers won't fit the old shorty chassis.

Frank had a great explainer on the Facebook Live event today, basically the smallest design for a reliable gear diff that could handle the torque of a modern brushless system was 2mm wider than the old ball diffs -- so the belt covers had to be changed to fit. The new chassis also has a lot of other changes that should minimize weight and make flex more consistent side to side.

You'll still have the option to use the ball diffs from your 1.0 car by putting a 1mm spacer on each side of the diff before installing (these spacers are included in the 2.0 kit).
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:22 PM   #52
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Price point is killer too.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:02 PM   #53
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Does anyone know when they will be available?
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #54
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Does anyone know when they will be available?
Early June
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:20 PM   #55
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Does anyone know if the bell cranks and steering parts are the same?
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:33 PM   #56
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Does anyone know if the bell cranks and steering parts are the same?
I am not too sure what you mean by "steering parts" but the bell cranks are the same
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:41 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I am not too sure what you mean by "steering parts" but the bell cranks are the same
The bell cranks are not the same. The old ones do fit but they now have a new bell crank that have more adjustable options. Saw Frank today and I got a hands on look at the car. Some very nice options.
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:48 PM   #58
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TLR231017. They are the same bellcranks as the original 22-4 in the kit.
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Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 05-13-2016 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:53 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
I'm curious if JR had the 2.0 at the Judge race? Because it looked really good! But JR was driving it and he is pretty good!
I'm pretty sure it was! Maybe not what will be boxed in the kit, but a 2.0 nonetheless.

His care looked good when the track was insane traction, & even more impressive Sat/sun when we all started cussing it going slick.

The new diffs worked on both conditions!
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:56 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudcat981 View Post
The bell cranks are not the same. The old ones do fit but they now have a new bell crank that have more adjustable options. Saw Frank today and I got a hands on look at the car. Some very nice options.
Are you talking about the new option part C-Bellcranks, with the adjustable draglink? Frank mentioned in the live Q&A FB video, that he was currently running the new optional bellcranks.
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