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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-31-2016, 11:12 PM   #511
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Amain has these on sale now for 269. Is this a good price for the kit? I want to pick one up to race carpet indoors. Want to pull the trigger, read this posting, anyone tell me what you think?
Thanks for the notice! I just bought the last one, they are awesome kits. Sorry buddy.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:07 AM   #512
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Thanks for the notice! I just bought the last one, they are awesome kits. Sorry buddy.
We still have some here, so I'm sure A-Main will get more.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:14 AM   #513
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AND?? is it a good deal, who cares if one number is of, 1.0 2.o, is it a good price/vehicle?
you may want to get all you facts in order before making a comment like that. there is a difference between the 2 buggies (considering the price difference).
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:48 AM   #514
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you may want to get all you facts in order before making a comment like that. there is a difference between the 2 buggies (considering the price difference).
He's not making statements, he's asking questions.
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:25 AM   #515
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He's not making statements, he's asking questions.
It's not what you say, it's how you say it
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:34 AM   #516
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no wonder this forum gets bad press as a bunch of elite snobs
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:05 AM   #517
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no wonder this forum gets bad press as a bunch of elite snobs
The 2.0 has new rear end geometry, stronger front end components, gear diffs, more adjustability etc. The 2.0 is also much easier to work on. Whether or not that is worth it to you is a question only you can answer. Depends on what you care to do with it. Everyone has an opinion if that makes them a snob then so be it, I'm sure everyone will sleep fine tonight either way.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:14 PM   #518
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It's not what you say, it's how you say it
There are no dumb questions, only dumb ways to ask them.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:20 PM   #519
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no wonder this forum gets bad press as a bunch of elite snobs
no elite snob over here. you made a general post about the price of the buggy. i responded and said that it was for the 22-4 1.0 (original buggy) look at your response to my post..

"
Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
that is for the 22-4 1.0
AND?? is it a good deal, who cares if one number is of, 1.0 2.o, is it a good price/vehicle?"

so i guess who cares about the number then. next time i will think twice about answering a question on the forum either way, i am not loosing sleep over this tonight.

FYI...get the 22-4 2.0. it is worth every penny. Great Job by the TLR boys
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:31 PM   #520
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Hey guys wondering if anyone has a setup for a extremely low grip technical track. Here is the track
https://www.facebook.com/Keiloroffro...933988197541:0
Anyone?
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:53 AM   #521
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Anyone?
Start with the kit setup, with 30k in the diffs, 22mm of ride height, and a looser slipper setting.
Capelracer likes this.
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:09 PM   #522
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Anyone?
Have a look here: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/losi/S...tyTwoFour.html
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:40 PM   #523
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Frank, what would be the benefit to say running 20k in the diffs versus running the 50k.
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Old 09-03-2016, 03:58 PM   #524
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Front diff or rear?
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #525
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Frank, what would be the benefit to say running 20k in the diffs versus running the 50k.
The diffs will feel looser, and that diff will rotate quicker and drive less.
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