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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-25-2016, 03:54 PM   #496
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i use Durango #310032
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:37 PM   #497
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This question is for Frank, Ryan, or Casper. Mainly want to know for 8th scale but it should apply across the board. With regards to sway bars. Do you tighter the grub screws down to pinch the sway bars or just to take the play out but keep the bar movement free?
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Old 08-26-2016, 07:05 AM   #498
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Originally Posted by travymoto11 View Post
This question is for Frank, Ryan, or Casper. Mainly want to know for 8th scale but it should apply across the board. With regards to sway bars. Do you tighter the grub screws down to pinch the sway bars or just to take the play out but keep the bar movement free?
The 2nd one: "just to take the play out but keep the bar movement free"
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:49 AM   #499
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Yes just to take play out. I always adjust that small set screw to touch the swaybar and then back off to make sure it moves freely. So I slowly tighten the setscrew while wiggling the sway bar. Once I feel the screw touch the sway bar (it stops wiggling) and I back it off a touch then do the other screw. Remember you want to readjust if you change swaybars as this setting will change slightly.
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:44 AM   #500
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Hey guys wondering if anyone has a setup for a extremely low grip technical track. Here is the track
https://www.facebook.com/Keiloroffro...933988197541:0
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:16 AM   #501
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
The 2nd one: "just to take the play out but keep the bar movement free"
He's right you know
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:44 PM   #502
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He's right you know
Thanks guys. That is what I have always done, however I drove a friends 8th scale e buggy and it was planted....toooo planted. I was checking out his car afterwords and notice he had bothe front and rear bars completely locked down. I want to make my e buggy a little less free and that's what prompted me to ask. Anywho....back to the 22-4.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:47 PM   #503
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May want to go up in sway bars then. Locking them down keep them from being a true sway bar and will lead to inconsistent action but maybe you like stiff sway bar settings?
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:35 PM   #504
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May want to go up in sway bars then. Locking them down keep them from being a true sway bar and will lead to inconsistent action but maybe you like stiff sway bar settings?
Good point Casper....I will try stiffer sways bars!
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:20 AM   #505
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Amain has these on sale now for 269. Is this a good price for the kit? I want to pick one up to race carpet indoors. Want to pull the trigger, read this posting, anyone tell me what you think?
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:22 AM   #506
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Amain has these on sale now for 269. Is this a good price for the kit? I want to pick one up to race carpet indoors. Want to pull the trigger, read this posting, anyone tell me what you think?
that is for the 22-4 1.0
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:38 PM   #507
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Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
that is for the 22-4 1.0
AND?? is it a good deal, who cares if one number is of, 1.0 2.o, is it a good price/vehicle?
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:53 PM   #508
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AND?? is it a good deal, who cares if one number is of, 1.0 2.o, is it a good price/vehicle?
The only reason he wanted to be sure you were aware, is that you are posting in the 2.0 thread, but inquiring about the 1.0.

22-4 1.0 (TLR03005) - $269.99
22-4 2.0 (TLR03007) - $399.99

For carpet, I think you'd be better off with the 2.0 since they include gear diffs which would definitely perform better for carpet and astro.
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Old 08-31-2016, 03:23 PM   #509
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The only reason he wanted to be sure you were aware, is that you are posting in the 2.0 thread, but inquiring about the 1.0.

22-4 1.0 (TLR03005) - $269.99
22-4 2.0 (TLR03007) - $399.99

For carpet, I think you'd be better off with the 2.0 since they include gear diffs which would definitely perform better for carpet and astro.
He's right you know
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:10 PM   #510
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AND?? is it a good deal, who cares if one number is of, 1.0 2.o, is it a good price/vehicle?
Hilarious
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