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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-18-2016, 03:23 PM   #466
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
3rd straight wendesday night race at LRH, all wins, all TQ's I love this car. When should I start checking diff fluids, and belt tension?
I'd probably just open the tunnels and check the belts, pulley's and diff. I wouldn't pull the diffs apart unless you see some leaking (which I wouldn't expect). I would change the belts of pulleys unless they look like they need it. Then, you should be able to go another 3-4 track days with no other checking.

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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
For med/high bite tracks where slicks are the tire of choice, are most flipping the arms and running the shocks in the front like we were doing with the 1.0? Also when doing this , I think I read it's necessary to put a 1mm ball stud washer on the upper shock mount to get the correct shock geometry?

Thank you in advance for any help.
I'd flip, it's pretty good.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:36 PM   #467
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Just pulled the front and it's not leaking. Will check the rear later. front and side belts still look new.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:06 PM   #468
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Just pulled the front and it's not leaking. Will check the rear later. front and side belts still look new.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:00 PM   #469
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I actually got better info, Dakotah ran ball diffs the entire weekend. Ryan and Dustin tried ball diffs at one point, and changed back to gear diffs.
Dakota's seems to do his own thing setup wise......cant argue with the results!
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:29 PM   #470
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I've ran my 22-4 2.0 several race days now, I'm convinced its by far the best wheeler right now. 30k front and rear works great at my local track. I want to try the shocks on the front of the arm mod but having issues with how poorly they fit when installed that way, camber link binding on shock, sway bar mount hitting shock body and the shocks lean very far back. I am fairly sure i did it correctly, swapped sides with the arm, drilled the sway bar holes 27mm from center hole to pivot point etc..

Any tips to make it work better?
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:02 PM   #471
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Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
I've ran my 22-4 2.0 several race days now, I'm convinced its by far the best wheeler right now. 30k front and rear works great at my local track. I want to try the shocks on the front of the arm mod but having issues with how poorly they fit when installed that way, camber link binding on shock, sway bar mount hitting shock body and the shocks lean very far back. I am fairly sure i did it correctly, swapped sides with the arm, drilled the sway bar holes 27mm from center hole to pivot point etc..

Any tips to make it work better?
It sounds like you did everything right. For more clearance I recommend buying a pack of B5 ball cups and B5 ballstuds from AE. This will allow you to use the angled ball cup and angle the camber link a little back for more shock clearance. On my car I have a 1mm shim between the shock mount and tower then a 1mm shim between the shock mount and shock bushing. Also make sure your wheelbase setup is 5mm front/ 1mm back. Hope that makes sense.
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Old 08-19-2016, 02:16 PM   #472
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Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
I've ran my 22-4 2.0 several race days now, I'm convinced its by far the best wheeler right now. 30k front and rear works great at my local track. I want to try the shocks on the front of the arm mod but having issues with how poorly they fit when installed that way, camber link binding on shock, sway bar mount hitting shock body and the shocks lean very far back. I am fairly sure i did it correctly, swapped sides with the arm, drilled the sway bar holes 27mm from center hole to pivot point etc..

Any tips to make it work better?
IF you look at pic of Dustin Evans car from the Reedy race he used 2mm of spacers between the shock tower and the top of the shock. That add a little clearance between the Shock spring and camber link, but actually reduces clearance with the sway bar & spring coils . Using a B5 angled ballcup give some more clearance as already mentioned. You could try reshaping the swaybar with one of those RC airplane bendy things but it might change the rate of the sway bar ever so slightly?

When using the AE ballcup, I put an AE shock boring on the blasted to keep the cup from rotating down too much which would change your roll centers.

Oh, and I see your from Louisville, so I've probably race against you once or twice?
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:26 PM   #473
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Originally Posted by Team Pink View Post
It sounds like you did everything right. For more clearance I recommend buying a pack of B5 ball cups and B5 ballstuds from AE. This will allow you to use the angled ball cup and angle the camber link a little back for more shock clearance. On my car I have a 1mm shim between the shock mount and tower then a 1mm shim between the shock mount and shock bushing. Also make sure your wheelbase setup is 5mm front/ 1mm back. Hope that makes sense.
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I tried swapping arms also and didn't like the clearance issue of the rear shock springs with turnbuckles and swaybar as well, went back to running arms the normal way and drilled holes for the bottom of shocks. I used 3mm spacer too, after reversing shock standouts. Angle of shocks looks better. Works really well on outdoor tracks. Running kit setup on everything but diffs =20k f/15k rear.
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:26 PM   #474
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I tried swapping arms also and didn't like the clearance issue of the rear shock springs with turnbuckles and swaybar as well, went back to running arms the normal way and drilled holes for the bottom of shocks. I used 3mm spacer too, after reversing shock standouts. Angle of shocks looks better. Works really well on outdoor tracks. Running kit setup on everything but diffs =20k f/15k rear.
what kind of track ans surface razorbelly? thx
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:08 PM   #475
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i am sure this has been asked but what is the benefit of running the rear shocks in front of the arm?
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:17 PM   #476
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Moves weight to the middle of the car. Reducing rear weight keeps he car from having too much swing weight and come around more in the corners. This results in better corner speed by allowing the car to rotate with out over rotating.
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:46 PM   #477
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Moves weight to the middle of the car. Reducing rear weight keeps he car from having too much swing weight and come around more in the corners. This results in better corner speed by allowing the car to rotate with out over rotating.
thanks for the explanation. is this is recommended for high bite clay using slicks? and does this work for and outdoor track that is med bite? i ran the buggy this past week with the shocks forward without any issue and the buggy felt great. i never ran it with the shocks in the rear. I am going to try tonight.

thanks again for the info
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:48 PM   #478
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I normally run on med to high traction surfaces. (I admit spoiled in So cal). I would expect it to be good for most conditions though.
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:16 AM   #479
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Any recommendations on electronics?

Finishing up the build on my 2.0 and am interested in running the 13.5 class at OCRC.

Motor?
ESC?

Also servos... I picked up the spektrum s6240 servo and it seems like it won't work. It's low profile so the base of it is right in line with the "jack shaft"...

Frank it appears you're running the same servo - maybe I am missing something


Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:30 AM   #480
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Any recommendations on electronics?

Finishing up the build on my 2.0 and am interested in running the 13.5 class at OCRC.

Motor?
ESC?

Also servos... I picked up the spektrum s6240 servo and it seems like it won't work. It's low profile so the base of it is right in line with the "jack shaft"...

Frank it appears you're running the same servo - maybe I am missing something


Thanks in advance!
For the servo, just cut off the rubber boot around the servo lead, and it works great.
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