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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-15-2016, 06:37 PM   #451
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Frank, great performance by the 22-4 this weekend.....Total domination! What diff fluids were the guys running in Omaha? Hopefully you'll post all the a-main setups!
I read that some were running ball diffs.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:57 PM   #452
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Frank, great performance by the 22-4 this weekend.....Total domination! What diff fluids were the guys running in Omaha? Hopefully you'll post all the a-main setups!
I also heard that Dakotah, Dustin and Ryan ran ball diffs. For that track, I would have started 30 front 40 rear.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:08 PM   #453
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I also heard that Dakotah, Dustin and Ryan ran ball diffs. For that track, I would have started 30 front 40 rear.
Thats surprising....I thought the reason the new car is so good and feels different than 1.0 was 90% down to the gear diffs. With the other 10% being the other updates. Guess thats why I'm a midpack scrub and they're freaking RC aliens!
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:25 PM   #454
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I just wanted to update my thoughts on the car. I've club raced it twice at SRI Louisvile, 3 or 4 practice days at Ohio RC Factory, and raced the Scotty Ernst Shootout at Sparks Park in Columbus. My earlier issues with steering inconsistencies appear to have been solved by Frank's suggestion to make sure to torque down the servo. Haven't an issue since.

Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.

The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:09 AM   #455
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
I just wanted to update my thoughts on the car. I've club raced it twice at SRI Louisvile, 3 or 4 practice days at Ohio RC Factory, and raced the Scotty Ernst Shootout at Sparks Park in Columbus. My earlier issues with steering inconsistencies appear to have been solved by Frank's suggestion to make sure to torque down the servo. Haven't an issue since.

Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.

The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
I wouldn't worry about the bulkhead, unless it's cracked. Mine is on the looser side, and my car is still hauling, no issues there.
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:10 AM   #456
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.

The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
If you look back in this thread there are part numbers listed for some older ball cups and turnbuckles for that steering rod that should be beefier, they're for an older Losi vehicle of some type. FWIW I have found that most of the time I have seen a local with problems with that rod, it's been because their steering EPA is set too high and it's the servo that's jerking the rod out of the cup.

I wouldn't worry about the front end play, if you crack that bulkhead you'll know something is wrong very quickly when driving it. The new front end design is pure awesome. I broke front arms on my 1.0 car pretty regularly but I still have yet to break one on my 2.0, and it's been raced at least once a week since the car was released.
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:22 AM   #457
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I also heard that Dakotah, Dustin and Ryan ran ball diffs. For that track, I would have started 30 front 40 rear.
I've never been out to the Hobbyplex, did the team switch to Ball Diffs because the track was loose and they were looking for extra grip? From what I understand the ball diff should be for anything from loose/loamy outdoor low bite to medium bite, and the gear diff should be better on med/high bite (watered indoor clay) up to high-bite carpet.

I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:30 AM   #458
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
If you look back in this thread there are part numbers listed for some older ball cups and turnbuckles for that steering rod that should be beefier, they're for an older Losi vehicle of some type. FWIW I have found that most of the time I have seen a local with problems with that rod, it's been because their steering EPA is set too high and it's the servo that's jerking the rod out of the cup.

I wouldn't worry about the front end play, if you crack that bulkhead you'll know something is wrong very quickly when driving it. The new front end design is pure awesome. I broke front arms on my 1.0 car pretty regularly but I still have yet to break one on my 2.0, and it's been raced at least once a week since the car was released.
I'm hoping those steering link ballstuds are the same size ball that was used with the XXX, so I'm going to try one of those first if I can find some in my box of crap from 2001.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:57 PM   #459
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I've never been out to the Hobbyplex, did the team switch to Ball Diffs because the track was loose and they were looking for extra grip? From what I understand the ball diff should be for anything from loose/loamy outdoor low bite to medium bite, and the gear diff should be better on med/high bite (watered indoor clay) up to high-bite carpet.

I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
I actually got better info, Dakotah ran ball diffs the entire weekend. Ryan and Dustin tried ball diffs at one point, and changed back to gear diffs.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:12 PM   #460
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For med/high bite tracks where slicks are the tire of choice, are most flipping the arms and running the shocks in the front like we were doing with the 1.0? Also when doing this , I think I read it's necessary to put a 1mm ball stud washer on the upper shock mount to get the correct shock geometry?

Thank you in advance for any help.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:13 PM   #461
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3rd straight wendesday night race at LRH, all wins, all TQ's I love this car. When should I start checking diff fluids, and belt tension?
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:15 PM   #462
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
I've never been out to the Hobbyplex, did the team switch to Ball Diffs because the track was loose and they were looking for extra grip? From what I understand the ball diff should be for anything from loose/loamy outdoor low bite to medium bite, and the gear diff should be better on med/high bite (watered indoor clay) up to high-bite carpet.

I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
loose dirt tracks, any track with any kind of decent grip, the gear diffs will be more consistent, and a lot less maintenance.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:35 PM   #463
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
For med/high bite tracks where slicks are the tire of choice, are most flipping the arms and running the shocks in the front like we were doing with the 1.0? Also when doing this , I think I read it's necessary to put a 1mm ball stud washer on the upper shock mount to get the correct shock geometry?

Thank you in advance for any help.
Running the shocks in front of the tower/ arm adjust the weight bias. I have ran the car on slicks with the shocks behind the arm and my car was really good. Looking back I think the car would have been better with the shocks to the front. Since then I have went to shocks in front of the arm running indoors on AKA Chainlinks and outdoors on Impacts and my car has been good in both circumstances. It gives the car more rotation and to me just felt overall more balanced when cornering. For mounting I put a 1mm shim between the shock mount and tower; then a shim between the shock bushing.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:44 PM   #464
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3rd straight wendesday night race at LRH, all wins, all TQ's I love this car. When should I start checking diff fluids, and belt tension?
I try to check mine every couple race days, and so far there has been hardly any signs of wear on the belts (if so minimal) since I first got the car back in late May/ early June. As for the diffs I think TLR really hit the design out of the park as they don't seem to leak at all. Most of the time I just freshen up the oil every 2-3 race days if running at the same track.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:14 PM   #465
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I try to check mine every couple race days, and so far there has been hardly any signs of wear on the belts (if so minimal) since I first got the car back in late May/ early June. As for the diffs I think TLR really hit the design out of the park as they don't seem to leak at all. Most of the time I just freshen up the oil every 2-3 race days if running at the same track.
I think they are the best diffs on the market. I had the D413, B44.3, and Kyosho ZX-6, they are by far the smoothest, and more importantly for me, they are quiet, all other cars sound like they are grinding themselves to death. Not planning on any racing until the next rebuild so I will check them later, track doesn't get dusty.
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