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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-12-2016, 08:38 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Why the gear diffs? I know a lot of the associated drivers are going to ball diff front and rear and center gear diff.
Probably so people can run this car on carpet without rebuilding ball diffs every week. Ease of tuning with fluids, reliability, and so on and so on.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:42 AM   #32
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I wonder if we will be able to run ball diffs in it if we choose.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:33 AM   #33
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So, for those in my boat who have a 1.0 that has all the previously-released upgrades:
  • Shorty Chassis
  • Cab-Forward Body
  • Front CVA Driveshafts
  • Front & Rear Swaybar Kit
  • + Front Belt Cover

Here's what I'm looking at that's a new part number for the 2.0 that would be needed to make a 1.5 into a 2.0:
  • Front Belt Cover & Sub Frame - TLR231043 - $15
  • Belt Cover Set, Center & Rear - TLR231044 - $25
  • Front Pivot, Brace, & Bumper - TLR231045 - $7.50
  • Driver Belt Adjustment Inserts - TLR232042 - $12
  • CVA Driveshaft Set Complete (2) - TLR232044 - $28
  • Complete Gear Diff, Front/Rear - TLR232047 - $60
  • Front Arm Set - TLR234061 - $7.50
  • Front Hinge Pin Set - TLR234063 - $7.50
  • Front Spindle Set - TLR234064 - $6
  • Grooved Slipper Plate Set - TLR232043 - $17
  • Rear Wing Stay & Washers - TLR231046 - $6
  • Battery Mount Set - TLR231047 - $7.50
  • Mud Guard Set - TLR231048 - $9
  • Chassis - TLR231049 - $60
Total Cost: ~ $268
Might actually be practical to convert! Frank, would I have a full "2.0" car with this list of parts? Can't seem to find TLR234065, which the diagrams list as the rear hubs, but I assume these are the same as the rear hubs from the 2WD 22 3.0?

Might as well get a couple other questions that are soon to come up out of the way too:
Can the new gear diffs be dropped in to a 22-4 1.0?
If I have the 22-4 Shorty Chassis, can it be used with the new belt covers & sub frame?

Hooray for new front arm/hingepin/spindle design, didnt see this highlighted in the video! Hopefully the new parts will be more durable! Adding a grooved slipper is another nice touch that I didn't see mentioned.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:41 AM   #34
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Awesome! I'm liking the new gear diffs
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:48 AM   #35
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I really like how my 1.0 is setup . . . but if those gear diffs just drop in . . . i'll for sure pick them up.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:55 AM   #36
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For those curious took the part numbers and put them in a image.

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Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-1.0-2.jpg  
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:09 AM   #37
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you will need 2 diff so that makes at least to $328 and thats only if you already had the cab forward body, sway bar set, 12.5 chubs, 2.5 toe plate, rear vertical camber block, 22 rear hub and maybe something else too.

I think is fair to say thats better to buy a new kit.
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:10 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
For those who want to convert current car to gear diffs -- will you need to buy the new front pivot and belt covers?

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR231045
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR231043
And a bunch of other stuff, including the chassis.
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:26 AM   #39
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Frank,

can you give a breakdown on what is needed to convert to gear diff's . . . maybe even 1.0 to 2.0?

thx
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:27 AM   #40
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Snip
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:32 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffwd View Post
you will need 2 diff so that makes at least to $328 and thats only if you already had the cab forward body, sway bar set, 12.5 chubs, 2.5 toe plate, rear vertical camber block, 22 rear hub and maybe something else too.

I think is fair to say thats better to buy a new kit.
The gear diff set says front/rear, I had assumed this meant a pair... but if it's really $60 per diff, then ouch. At $120 a set they had better be durable!

I do actually have all of those parts on my 22-4 already... but assuming you can sell your old roller for at least $130, then yeah, you might as well just get a new kit.
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Old 05-12-2016, 01:04 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
The JR Mitch paint scheme! VERY nice!
I like it too.
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:41 PM   #43
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Was the front belt cover the only thing that people had an issue with maintenance wise? Is there any way to adjust front belt tension on the 2.0?
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Old 05-12-2016, 03:03 PM   #44
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Ok, im not the most experienced guy on here yet but im gettin better each time out. Having said that, I love my 224 and durability wise it has been fine I think and considering that it has had to endure my learning curve I have broken 1 front arm so far and a rear universal. Hopefully I havent just cursed my car! LOL!

With that said, the 2.0 looks nice but I think that it is BS that TLR didn't make the gear diffs a drop in fit for the 1.0. Hopefully the front arms are a bolt on fit but considering the direction of most manufacturers today they probably don't fit either!

In any case not sure if I am gonna upgrade yet or not because I really like my 224 as it is right now. Hopefully TLR possibly puts together an upgrade kit for those that just wanna possibly upgrade there current car.

Something with the gear diffs, rear hubs, cva's, etc....

Either way can't wait to see this when my buddy gets his built!
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Old 05-12-2016, 04:17 PM   #45
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So will the new belt covers fit the old chassis? Holes in the same places, or is it a totally new chassis with different hole locations? That's what I'm mainly wanting right now.
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