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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-07-2016, 02:27 PM   #406
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Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
Its hard to tell if it was better before putting the hubs on because I was stuggling with the set screw coming loose on the gear drive cups.

What tires are you running on your 22.4? Dirt Webs?? Is there a starting setup for OCRC you would recommend? I'm running 7.5, but I'll be switching to 13.5 soon to join the 4wd 13.5 class.
I have a kinda Phend setup on it from a while ago which has shocks and arms switched on the rear to have shocks in front of the arms and switched to the 2.0 2w hubs etc cuz that was a deal on the 22-4 1.0 back in the day that I last tried then just dropped in the 13.5 and it's good to go.

I am running Electrons front and rear but others have noticed they steer like crazy on front and have tried Dirt Webs on front.
Knowing how much steering they have I just try to drive accordingly til they wear out.

I took sway bars off both ends and car is easier to drive for me, more grip front and rear.
Soft rear suspension and stiffer front.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:49 PM   #407
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I have a kinda Phend setup on it from a while ago which has shocks and arms switched on the rear to have shocks in front of the arms and switched to the 2.0 2w hubs etc cuz that was a deal on the 22-4 1.0 back in the day that I last tried then just dropped in the 13.5 and it's good to go.

I am running Electrons front and rear but others have noticed they steer like crazy on front and have tried Dirt Webs on front.
Knowing how much steering they have I just try to drive accordingly til they wear out.

I took sway bars off both ends and car is easier to drive for me, more grip front and rear.
Soft rear suspension and stiffer front.
I'll take a look at Phends setup and may try a combination of DWs and electrons

What are the benefit of putting the shocks in the front? Does the 2.0 hubs give more dog bone plunge and are those still available?
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:55 PM   #408
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Something isn't right. I moved the shocks to the front of the rear arm on mine and I'm looking for more rotation
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:57 PM   #409
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I'll take a look at Phends setup and may try a combination of DWs and electrons

What are the benefit of putting the shocks in the front? Does the 2.0 hubs give more dog bone plunge and are those still available?
All that 2w 2.0 stuff was for the 1.0.

22-4 2.0 should be dialed pretty close with kit setup or

Roots setup is where I'd start for OCRC

Electrons rear for sure.

Make sure slipper and clicker are all good.

Car should be good to go.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:01 PM   #410
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No. One of the ball studs pulled out of the stock hubs. They didn't have the stock ones so they gave me the aluminum ones at OCRC. I'm running the same tires everyone else runs there. The car is wicket loose going into a turn off power. I have tried everyones setup including the kit setup. Which leads me to think that something is binding or something. It looks like inside wheel is lifting when i enter a turn.
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I'll take a look at Phends setup and may try a combination of DWs and electrons

What are the benefit of putting the shocks in the front? Does the 2.0 hubs give more dog bone plunge and are those still available?
Try this setup with the arms flipped.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...edy%20Race.pdf
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:22 PM   #411
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Try this setup with the arms flipped.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...edy%20Race.pdf
Thanks Frank. I'm pretty close to that setup. The only difference is i'm running 30,000/50,000 in diffs. Org Kyosho frt springs/Pink LF rear springs and i haven't changed the shocks to the front of the rear arms.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:25 PM   #412
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I may have to tear the buggy down. Maybe recheck the CVA's make sure they are not binding. It looks like the outside wheel is lifting when I enter a turn off power.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:25 PM   #413
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Try this setup with the arms flipped.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...edy%20Race.pdf
I'm guessing, killer.

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Old 08-07-2016, 07:17 PM   #414
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Try this setup with the arms flipped.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...edy%20Race.pdf
So flipping the arms is done with the 2.0 so it gives you the ability to run the shocks in the front of the arm? is that the reason?
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:41 AM   #415
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Yes however you need to drill holes for the swaybar mounts.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:38 AM   #416
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So flipping the arms is done with the 2.0 so it gives you the ability to run the shocks in the front of the arm? is that the reason?
Yes
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:32 PM   #417
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Quick question, how 'free' should I expect the drivetrain to be? On the bench, no motor, it feels like there is some sort if drag, but i am not sure if it's normal or not for the three belt set up, then on the track it is noticeable as well, even had another driver try it and they commented the same drag feeling. Is there a common culprit or fist place to check? I did not build it myself...

While I am at it, where does one find these hard to source Avid purple springs?
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:45 PM   #418
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Quick question, how 'free' should I expect the drivetrain to be? On the bench, no motor, it feels like there is some sort if drag, but i am not sure if it's normal or not for the three belt set up, then on the track it is noticeable as well, even had another driver try it and they commented the same drag feeling. Is there a common culprit or fist place to check? I did not build it myself...

While I am at it, where does one find these hard to source Avid purple springs?
Driveline is very tight at first but after sitting one night the belts stretch and it gets much more loose. You can buy other brand springs that are almost identical spring rates.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:29 PM   #419
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Belts will expand slightly under power as well so on the bench they will feel tighter then what they are under speed. It will not spin like a shaft car for sure.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:46 PM   #420
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I've ran it a couple of race nights already, so the belts shoukd have gone through the initial stretching, but if it is normal to feel some drag then it may be fine. I had a sensor go bad in my LRP motor, which I replaced, but it may still be the issue. I'll swap motors and see if that was the problem. Thanks.
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