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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-03-2016, 11:33 PM   #391
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Has anyone had problems with their slipper not slipping wit the nut flush with the screw? If so where should you tighten it too?
I had this issue also. I thought it was a little odd. I am running 17.5 so the slipper not slipping didn't bother me. I wound the nut in so it was almost flush with the bolt.

What size motor are you running.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:33 AM   #392
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Here is what I have come up with for a tension chart. There is a little room for error as I used SAE dial calipers to measure and then converted to MM but I think this is a more accurate way of describing the tension options.




For example, if you want to tighten the side belt but keep the same rear belt tension and you are currently running 0 / A>, the next tightest side belt with the same rear belt tension would be 1 / A<.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:50 AM   #393
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I had this issue also. I thought it was a little odd. I am running 17.5 so the slipper not slipping didn't bother me. I wound the nut in so it was almost flush with the bolt.

What size motor are you running.
I'm running 13.5.
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:37 PM   #394
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I'm running 13.5.
I'm not an expert but there is a good chance that the 13.5 does not have enough grunt to set the slipper as per the video on YouTube. I think the method of setting the slipper by holding the wheels and blipping the throttle only applies to mod motors.

Hopefully someone can chime in on this and confirm.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:02 AM   #395
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Has anyone had problems with their slipper not slipping wit the nut flush with the screw? If so where should you tighten it too?
With a 13.5? Does it skip the belts, or just bog down the motor?
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:57 PM   #396
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With a 13.5? Does it skip the belts, or just bog down the motor?
It should like it just bogs down the motor.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:11 AM   #397
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It should like it just bogs down the motor.
The motor just might not have enough power to slip it on the bench then. You can always take the slipper nut off, and flip it around for the nylon locking portion goes on first, then it can be run looser.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:18 AM   #398
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The motor just might not have enough power to slip it on the bench then. You can always take the slipper nut off, and flip it around for the nylon locking portion goes on first, then it can be run looser.
Thanks Frank for the help. I will play around today at the track.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:17 PM   #399
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My kit arrive yesterday (Friday) afternoon.... the build was smooth except for having to hack up the rear driveshafts to free them up. Today was the first round of a local outdoor point series and I was able to TQ and take the 10minute A main win. The car was awesome all day! Super stoked to have a 22-4 back in my lineup.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:00 PM   #400
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How do you know if you have the right aluminum rear hubs. I think they gave me the wrong ones. I've been chasing and over rotating issue with the car and I'm wondering if this is the issue. I'm really frustrated and just about to give up on the buggy. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:15 PM   #401
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How do you know if you have the right aluminum rear hubs. I think they gave me the wrong ones. I've been chasing and over rotating issue with the car and I'm wondering if this is the issue. I'm really frustrated and just about to give up on the buggy. Any help would be appreciated.
Are they the kit hubs?
Where do you run it? If OCRC, Jake will know.
Car should be glued to the track with the right tires.
Set up and all that of course should help.
Anything come loose? Outdrives set screws etc?
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:20 PM   #402
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Are they the kit hubs?
Where do you run it? If OCRC, Jake will know.
Car should be glued to the track with the right tires.
Set up and all that of course should help.
Anything come loose? Outdrives set screws etc?
No. One of the ball studs pulled out of the stock hubs. They didn't have the stock ones so they gave me the aluminum ones at OCRC. I'm running the same tires everyone else runs there. The car is wicket loose going into a turn off power. I have tried everyones setup including the kit setup. Which leads me to think that something is binding or something. It looks like inside wheel is lifting when i enter a turn.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:39 PM   #403
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No. One of the ball studs pulled out of the stock hubs. They didn't have the stock ones so they gave me the aluminum ones at OCRC. I'm running the same tires everyone else runs there. The car is wicket loose going into a turn off power. I have tried everyones setup including the kit setup. Which leads me to think that something is binding or something. It looks like inside wheel is lifting when i enter a turn.
Was it ok before putting the hubs on?

I know that if you run Electrons there you get mad amounts of steering.

My 22-4 1.0 is dialed there with 13.5
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:09 PM   #404
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Has anyone tried the rcshox center diff? Just curious if there is a difference.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:11 PM   #405
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Its hard to tell if it was better before putting the hubs on because I was stuggling with the set screw coming loose on the gear drive cups.

What tires are you running on your 22.4? Dirt Webs?? Is there a starting setup for OCRC you would recommend? I'm running 7.5, but I'll be switching to 13.5 soon to join the 4wd 13.5 class.
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