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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-28-2016, 02:50 PM   #376
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There may be a little bit of tol stack up and depends on the fit of the bearing. Eventually like anything it would wear.
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:17 PM   #377
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Another thing I just realized is I got the aluminum hub carriers that have the six adjustment holes , not the the ones with the outer holes removed and chamfered. It appears the ones I got place the axle at a higher position in relation to the rear outer hinge pin, how would this affect driving and traction?
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:14 PM   #378
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Another thing I just realized is I got the aluminum hub carriers that have the six adjustment holes , not the the ones with the outer holes removed and chamfered. It appears the ones I got place the axle at a higher position in relation to the rear outer hinge pin, how would this affect driving and traction?
You need to add 2mm of stroke to get the droop back to normal. You'll have little bone plunge, so it'll be better in bumps, but land worse. The rear end will also be a lot softer on throttle and generally, the car will be a lot freer.
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Old 08-01-2016, 05:25 AM   #379
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Is it possible to use the old ball diff?
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:23 AM   #380
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Is it possible to use the old ball diff?
Yes, the kit comes with spacers to fit the ball diff properly.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:05 AM   #381
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When installing the rear shocks in the front how long of a screw do you need and how many spacers?
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Old 08-02-2016, 04:48 AM   #382
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When installing the rear shocks in the front how long of a screw do you need and how many spacers?
You swap arms left to right. Then you use the stock holes. Then you drill a new hole for the sway bar. use the same screw.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:45 AM   #383
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When installing the rear shocks in the front how long of a screw do you need and how many spacers?
You can use the TLR Shock mounting bolt. Use 2mm of spacers between it and the shock tower to stand the shock up at the correct angle.

You also need tochange the hub spacing. I think its 4mm in front of hub and 1 behind. Don't have my car with me so I'm not sure., check Frank's setup on TLR.com
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:47 AM   #384
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You can use the TLR Shock mounting bolt. Use 2mm of spacers between it and the shock tower to stand the shock up at the correct angle.

You also need tochange the hub spacing. I think its 4mm in front of hub and 1 behind. Don't have my car with me so I'm not sure., check Frank's setup on TLR.com
That's what I did thanks
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:30 PM   #385
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Has anyone had problems with their slipper not slipping wit the nut flush with the screw? If so where should you tighten it too?
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:21 AM   #386
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Has anyone had problems with their slipper not slipping wit the nut flush with the screw? If so where should you tighten it too?
Just be careful when you loosen it. The shaft is two piece on the nut side and mine got loose when I was trying to take off the nut.
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:21 PM   #387
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You should clean the treads of the slipper screw and thread lock or CA it into place. If you CA careful as it can set fast and be hard to get in all the way. I recommend thread lock but have done it both ways over the years (XX-4 days and older Losi top shafts)
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:41 PM   #388
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I've talked to Product Support and they now have the replacement driveshafts on hand at the Product Support division. Give them a call if you need replacement driveshafts (68mm) for your 22-4 2.0 from the first batch that had some defective driveshafts included.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:42 PM   #389
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This may or may not have been discussed before, but has anybody measured how much each belt tension insert actually changes the spacing on both the side belt and rear belt? After a quick inspection, I don't believe the belt tension chart is accurate in the manual.

Each of the side belt tension pieces appears to move the pulley back about .0015" starting with the #0 and ending with the #4. Your maximum range of adjustment is roughly .0065" from #0 to #4.

The rear D belt adjuster can adjust from .005" forward to .005 back of the center line which is a total adjustment of .01", well outside the range of adjustment of the side belt tension.

There is no way 0 with D forward is tighter than 1 with D back which is how the tension chart is written. When I get some time I will do the math and create a proper chart unless somebody has beat me too it.
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:50 PM   #390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You should clean the treads of the slipper screw and thread lock or CA it into place. If you CA careful as it can set fast and be hard to get in all the way. I recommend thread lock but have done it both ways over the years (XX-4 days and older Losi top shafts)
No I talking about my slipper is not slipping when it should be where should I set my nut to start out. It's brand new.
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