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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-23-2016, 12:09 PM   #361
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I'll check that out, if I keep having issues I'll post up some pictures and videos to better explain the issues I'm having
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:59 PM   #362
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Jake is a pretty savvy racer, and text me the same gearing. I know we gear 28/69 in 17.5 2wd, which a lot of people will say is slow... but that's the fastest gearing for OCRC and SDRC with Schuur Speed Motors.
How much motor timing people usually use with that gear ratio in OCRC?
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:19 PM   #363
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How much motor timing people usually use with that gear ratio in OCRC?
40-45* on a Schuur Speed was what I ran.
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Old 07-24-2016, 10:06 PM   #364
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40-45* on a Schuur Speed was what I ran.
Thank you!
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:02 PM   #365
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So far I haven't been able to finish one race day with the car. The first time I raced the front out drives slid off. The second race day the rear out drives slid off. The third race day the front gear diff screws backed out and leaked all over the front belt. It does not say to use loctite on those screws. But now I did. My left rear dog bone still hasn't broke in. And I shouldn't have to dremmel or grind anything on a $399.00 car. I am disappointed in this car. I built the car and followed the video on the out drives and still had a problem.
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:50 PM   #366
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So far I haven't been able to finish one race day with the car. The first time I raced the front out drives slid off. The second race day the rear out drives slid off. The third race day the front gear diff screws backed out and leaked all over the front belt. It does not say to use loctite on those screws. But now I did. My left rear dog bone still hasn't broke in. And I shouldn't have to dremel or grind anything on a $399.00 car. I am disappointed in this car. I built the car and followed the video on the out drives and still had a problem.
Sorry to hear your having problems. I would take it apart one more time, and make sure to use motor spray on the grub screw and out-drive itself to make sure you get all oil and excess loctite off. Also don't be afraid to crank down the grub screw with a high quality hex driver. Shouldn't have any problems after that. If your still having problems find a TLR driver at your track and ask him to help you, sure he will be happy to help you!
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:52 PM   #367
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Originally Posted by gangstafish View Post
So far I haven't been able to finish one race day with the car. The first time I raced the front out drives slid off. The second race day the rear out drives slid off. The third race day the front gear diff screws backed out and leaked all over the front belt. It does not say to use loctite on those screws. But now I did. My left rear dog bone still hasn't broke in. And I shouldn't have to dremmel or grind anything on a $399.00 car. I am disappointed in this car. I built the car and followed the video on the out drives and still had a problem.
Sorry to hear about your challenges. I've been running these gear diffs for quite a while, never using threadlock for the diff screws, and have not had any back out. With the smaller screw size, and small hex broach in the head, we knew that loctite might cause many screws to strip, and since none had come loose witout loctite, we thought it best not to include this as an instructional step. Is it possible the screws just weren't tightened enough?

For the outdrives, if you follow every the steps in the video, everything is solid. I haven't heard of any issues following the steps. I know we have 6 cars at the very high grip Shootout all with gear diffs, and not one outdrive coming loose over 5 days.

For the driveshafts, I totally agree with you. Unfortunately, every sample we tested, ran, built, checked and measured was perfect, even all the driveshafts that came with the team kits ahead of release. It wasn't until the main production we heard of, investigated, and identified to issue. We got new driveshafts, as replacements, in production with a day, and those should be arriving here any day now. Unfortunately, it does take some time to make a steel part like this with different machining processes, heat treat, etching, etc. We could have stopped selling the kits once the issue was identified, but we thought that more TLR consumers would choose to fix the faulty part than wait 3-4 weeks for the cars to ship with the proper parts. It seems like feedback supports this decision as a whole. All we can do is try to make the best decision possible given every factor.

If you were local, I'd be happy to build your diffs for you, show you how I go through them.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:16 PM   #368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gangstafish View Post
So far I haven't been able to finish one race day with the car. The first time I raced the front out drives slid off. The second race day the rear out drives slid off. The third race day the front gear diff screws backed out and leaked all over the front belt. It does not say to use loctite on those screws. But now I did. My left rear dog bone still hasn't broke in. And I shouldn't have to dremmel or grind anything on a $399.00 car. I am disappointed in this car. I built the car and followed the video on the out drives and still had a problem.
Hey if you go to Cruizin With RC in NJ, I'd be happy to take a look at your car. My car has not had any problems and I just helped a new guy get his car going last week. Send me a pm if u go by
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:18 PM   #369
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i scrapped my question....
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Last edited by travymoto11; 07-25-2016 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:07 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gangstafish View Post
So far I haven't been able to finish one race day with the car. The first time I raced the front out drives slid off. The second race day the rear out drives slid off. The third race day the front gear diff screws backed out and leaked all over the front belt. It does not say to use loctite on those screws. But now I did. My left rear dog bone still hasn't broke in. And I shouldn't have to dremmel or grind anything on a $399.00 car. I am disappointed in this car. I built the car and followed the video on the out drives and still had a problem.

It's really important to clean all screws and set screws before applying Loctite, I also clean the hole that the screw is going into(this is on all metal to metal), however I did not apply Loctite to the diffs as the instructions did not call for it..just made them snug with even torque. I double checked the screws in the out drives during and after my first pack and re snugged just for piece of mind...nothing was loose. As for the drive shafts, mine have loosened up nicely, but be assured TLR/horizonhobby has great customer service and will take care of all the folks who have an issue with this. I am very happy with this car and have had most all of the recent 4wd. The car is dialed out of the box and needs very little changes to suit driving preference, I m sure you'll find the same.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:37 AM   #371
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I love Losi. I know they will address the problem in a timely fashion. They usually do. I just want to run this car like I ran my 1.0.
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:36 PM   #372
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Feeling exited.. Trigger pulled on a 2.0
It's been about 7-8 months since I sold my 1.0 before a house move.
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:36 AM   #373
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I decided to put the aluminum rear hubs on my car and noticed that the bearing slide in and out(about 0.5 mm), like the middle bearing spacer is to wide for the hub. Is this normal or does it need a different spacer?

thanks
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:24 AM   #374
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You want the spacer to hold the bearings out a touch. If not then the spacer is not supporting the inner race and doing it's job.
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:00 PM   #375
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ok thanks, I know what the spacer is supposed to do, I was just questioning the amount of play, when the everything is assembled and tightened down you can move the axle side to side and see the bearing move with axle about 0.5 mm. I would think this would ware the hub carrier after a while.

Thanks
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