R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree112Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-28-2016, 07:59 AM   #256
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 313
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinLapped View Post
Hey Frank, any eta on TLR331018?
cant believe its back order until october on amain lol...need it too!
mccoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 08:08 AM   #257
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,724
Trader Rating: 120 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccoy View Post
cant believe its back order until october on amain lol...need it too!
Superior hobbies shows they have them in stock. Check it out
skoalisbad4me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 09:29 AM   #258
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,365
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
I race at OCRC( hard pack clay, medium to high bite ), how do you think the box stock setup would work with a 7.5 and dirt webs all around.

thanks
7.5T is not that much motor at OCRC if you're running full mod, I'd go 6.5 or 5.5T (I run 5.5T). But, if you're just getting into 4wd buggy, I would definitely recommend running in the new and growing 13.5T 4wd class.

Kit setup is a great place to start, I know lots of guys like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinLapped View Post
Hey Frank, any eta on TLR331018?
We way out sold our projections, working to get them in sooner, but it'll be a little while yet. I'd really try to find a shop that has one in stock now.
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 09:29 AM   #259
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 145
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinLapped View Post
Hey Frank, any eta on TLR331018?
I bought one of those last week on Amazon.
mgers75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 07:11 AM   #260
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,219
Trader Rating: 310 (100%+)
Default

Can I use this? TLR334009
__________________
Jermaine Mitchell
I laugh at serious racers acting like B****
Free Agent racing team. No sponsors needed.
Mercenary Racer
jmoneym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 07:25 AM   #261
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,365
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
Can I use this? TLR334009
Yes
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 06:46 PM   #262
Tech Adept
 
Razorbelly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 128
Default

Finished building my kit yesterday, another great kit from TLR/Frank Root. I liked the way everything went together nicely. As mentioned in other post, the rear CVA's are a little tight but should loosen up in a pack or two. My steering EPA's ended up set on like 75% both ways with full steering throw. As mentioned in other post, their servo horn rod pulled out of rod end. What I did was make a mark with white out on top of the front diff housing to indicate full steering both ways (without servo attached). Before mine at 100% EPA, my servo was going past my marks, causing a lot of stress on the horns, not any more. Oh I had a couple of screws that didn't want to go in that holds the top of the belt housing lid on. The new gear diffs are a work of art. Hope this post helps somebody else out. Because this site has helped me out a lot in the past as well. Again THX, Frank Root and the TLR crew for another great kit.

Last edited by Razorbelly; 06-29-2016 at 07:19 PM.
Razorbelly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 08:05 AM   #263
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 261
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

So I received my kit, and started assembling the rear drive shafts.... they are really bound up when applying even just a tiny bit of torque to the set screw. It seems that you would really have to wear them out to wear them in. Any idea on when the new shafts will be available? I'm just going to take my time assembling it and hope the shafts will be out soon. Other than that, this is a great kit and look forward to getting it on the track.

Thanks
AJrollin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:07 AM   #264
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,365
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
So I received my kit, and started assembling the rear drive shafts.... they are really bound up when applying even just a tiny bit of torque to the set screw. It seems that you would really have to wear them out to wear them in. Any idea on when the new shafts will be available? I'm just going to take my time assembling it and hope the shafts will be out soon. Other than that, this is a great kit and look forward to getting it on the track.

Thanks
2-3 weeks, I'll make sure to post when they are available.

Using a small metal file, and about 10 minutes of your time, you can get on the track for sure though
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:08 AM   #265
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 313
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

hey Frank..i give a try to 20k on both diffs..car is way beter than 35/20k..rear end is on rails..but if you look at my picture do you think maybe the oil is maybe too thin and the front is unload..tires seems to wear in middle only..rear tires are okay but front not..the wear is after 21 min of run(3 qualifsX5 minutes) + main 6 mins.. front tires are rear hole shot cut in half a few rows of spikesand then glued back together.. do you think 30k in both will reduce pizza effect on tires thx a lot
Attached Thumbnails
Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-20160630_114705.jpg  
mccoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:21 AM   #266
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,365
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccoy View Post
hey Frank..i give a try to 20k on both diffs..car is way beter than 35/20k..rear end is on rails..but if you look at my picture do you think maybe the oil is maybe too thin and the front is unload..tires seems to wear in middle only..rear tires are okay but front not..the wear is after 21 min of run(3 qualifsX5 minutes) + main 6 mins.. front tires are rear hole shot cut in half a few rows of spikesand then glued back together.. do you think 30k in both will reduce pizza effect on tires thx a lot
Doubt it probably has more to due with the tire shape/carcass and driving.
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:32 AM   #267
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 313
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Doubt it probably has more to due with the tire shape/carcass and driving.
i hope because car is fast and so fun to drive i dont want to touch anything yet lol..maybe the stock white foam that comes with tires are way too soft..and for sure im hard on throttle! thx Frank
mccoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:47 AM   #268
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,691
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Usually unloading as you are describing is a result of a center diff being light. The 22-4 obviously does not have a center diff so the difference in wear front to rear is likely from another reason.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 10:23 AM   #269
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,365
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Usually unloading as you are describing is a result of a center diff being light. The 22-4 obviously does not have a center diff so the difference in wear front to rear is likely from another reason.
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2016, 08:32 PM   #270
Tech Master
 
rcfiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Irvine, CA.
Posts: 1,332
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

I'm new to 4wd buggy. What is the best way to set the slipper on a 4wd buggy and how can you tell if its working.

Last edited by rcfiend; 07-03-2016 at 08:47 PM.
rcfiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net