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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-19-2016, 09:06 PM   #226
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any advices on diffs oil setup ..im running outside low medium grip ..more grip when track is wet but as soon as it dry out it becomes to turn out dusty ..so maybe 50k is a bit thick..what about to go 20 or 30k for the maiden run..any hints thx!
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:04 AM   #227
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Originally Posted by mccoy View Post
any advices on diffs oil setup ..im running outside low medium grip ..more grip when track is wet but as soon as it dry out it becomes to turn out dusty ..so maybe 50k is a bit thick..what about to go 20 or 30k for the maiden run..any hints thx!
I run on an very similar track and I started with 30k, car feels good once in a while the rear end gets loose. Start with 20k, let us know how it goes
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:06 AM   #228
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
What is the difference between the A and B hole on the servo link?
Here u go Kevin, direct from Frank
the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:59 AM   #229
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I run on an very similar track and I started with 30k, car feels good once in a while the rear end gets loose. Start with 20k, let us know how it goes
thx ill let you know!!
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:49 AM   #230
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I run on an very similar track and I started with 30k, car feels good once in a while the rear end gets loose. Start with 20k, let us know how it goes
If you run thicker in the rear than the front, it'll reduce rear rotation, so maybe try 40k in the rear with the 30k in the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Notice that some setups use shims between from camber block and ball stud, curious what changes on the car
Front Roll Center and camber gain. We pretty much always ran this on the 1.0.

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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
What servo would you recommend if I'm looking for a new one?
Spektrum S6240.

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Originally Posted by Grigz View Post
Has anyone else been having issues with the steering? On impacts the car tends to sway either left or right harder than normal, once you subtrim it out again its fine until another impact. Servo is good. Few guys locally with them have been having the same issues.
If you are running the Exotek "A" or "B" horn, that might be the issue. The aluminum parts can't fit net, so them move a little when you hit something hard enough and the trim goes off. I've not had that issue with the molded B horn (which I've never broken) or the new TLR A/B horn which is clamping (tighter fit), TLR331018 - http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR331018
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:45 AM   #231
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Just a heads up that if you do use a S6240, you need to cut the rubber boot off of the wires for use in a 22-4:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3QFlvbuHNw

Two other tales of the 22-4 2.0 from the past week...

During practice, there was a Stampede rolled over on the straightaway that didn't get called out, I hit it full-bore and broke... the Stampede I still haven't broken anything on the new car!

Also managed to lay down a new track record in 13.5 4WD on Friday, I have never gotten or even really been on pace for a track record run before so I give a lot of credit to the new car! It got a lot of "wow that looks dialed," which is how it felt
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:30 AM   #232
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
Just a heads up that if you do use a S6240, you need to cut the rubber boot off of the wires for use in a 22-4:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3QFlvbuHNw

Two other tales of the 22-4 2.0 from the past week...

During practice, there was a Stampede rolled over on the straightaway that didn't get called out, I hit it full-bore and broke... the Stampede I still haven't broken anything on the new car!

Also managed to lay down a new track record in 13.5 4WD on Friday, I have never gotten or even really been on pace for a track record run before so I give a lot of credit to the new car! It got a lot of "wow that looks dialed," which is how it felt
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:02 AM   #233
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Default 22 4 2.0

I just wanted to post I tried my 13.5 in the new buggy. Plenty of punch for me boosted. For our medium indoor size track. I don't need anything more. Key power is there. Infield/torque.
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:58 PM   #234
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hi folks..give the maiden ride tonight..car is almost box setup i only change front spring because they seems harder than the silver spring that cames with the 22-4 1,0.. car is running good but sometimes he seems to loose traction at the rear end... front diff is 35k and rear is 20k..diffs are on the table right now so i'll wait for some of your tips before trying something else..not sure between 20k front 10k rear or 30k front and 15k rear(dont have 15 but half cup 10k+half 20k should be close from 15k a guess!..my track is an outdoor track low traction/dusty when the sun dry out water that we spray between heats..thx a lot! im not disapointed at all my 1.0 was on rails but with some minors tweaks 2,0 will be about the same..i hope! ohh and can someone explain to me shortly the major difference between castor block 15 versus 12,5 degres. thx
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:52 AM   #235
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Originally Posted by mccoy View Post
hi folks..give the maiden ride tonight..car is almost box setup i only change front spring because they seems harder than the silver spring that cames with the 22-4 1,0.. car is running good but sometimes he seems to loose traction at the rear end... front diff is 35k and rear is 20k..diffs are on the table right now so i'll wait for some of your tips before trying something else..not sure between 20k front 10k rear or 30k front and 15k rear(dont have 15 but half cup 10k+half 20k should be close from 15k a guess!..my track is an outdoor track low traction/dusty when the sun dry out water that we spray between heats..thx a lot! im not disapointed at all my 1.0 was on rails but with some minors tweaks 2,0 will be about the same..i hope! ohh and can someone explain to me shortly the major difference between castor block 15 versus 12,5 degres. thx
Between the spring and oil changes from the kit setup, it should be a lot more aggressive. I'd run the full kit setup as we tested, and only change to 30k front and rear to start.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:40 AM   #236
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Between the spring and oil changes from the kit setup, it should be a lot more aggressive. I'd run the full kit setup as we tested, and only change to 30k front and rear to start.
thx frank for taking time! gotta go that way both fluids front and rear thx!!
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:59 AM   #237
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thx frank for taking time! gotta go that way both fluids front and rear thx!!
I usually run thicker rear than front for indoor stuff. I ran 30/30 at JBRL at OCRC, and it probably should have been better 30/35 or 30/40 in hindsight.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:25 PM   #238
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frank what brand of diff oil are you using most are 20-30-60k...
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:08 PM   #239
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frank what brand of diff oil are you using most are 20-30-60k...
TLR

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...erm=Diff+fluid
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Old 06-25-2016, 07:23 AM   #240
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22-4 2.0 Build/First Impressions:

Build went well. Main issue was the rear drive shafts that has been discussed. One shaft had pretty minimal binding the other was pretty bad, and would've messed with the handling. Luckily, it only took about 10-15 minutes of filing to make them feel awesome.

As someone who drives Assoc 2w cars and TLR 4w, I must mention the quality of parts that TLR provides. Little things like the machined shock bushings, X-ring that never develop stick-ion and don't leak, pre cut body, awesome wings (i use the TLR wings on my B5 always), molding alu treads into many parts for durability!

Gear Diffs: I have never built a gear diff before, so it was a little tricky. Frank says to fill the diffs just below the top of the housing. The lube is so thick it doesn't really settle or work its way into crevices very good so its hard to judge if you got enough in there. I think from now on I will fill it up 1/2 way before installing the gears, put a few drops on the gears before installing, and then fill the rest of the way.

I like how TLR improved the clicker assemble by making the gear one piece if you're running full time 4wd. I had that part turn into dust on me once, so this should definitely improve durability.

On Track: Ive only ran three pack thru the car so far. I ran the kit setup other than AVID purple springs up front, Pink TLR lo-freq in the rear, and 30,000 assoc diff fluid f/r. I also ran the rear shocks on the front of the tower. Oh, and I installed the Alu steering parts from my 1.0.

On Track: I ran at Ohio RC Factory. The car is much easier to drive and should yield better 5 min runs with less mistakes. The car has awesome on power steering. I need to learn how to tune the gear diffs cause I think the rear may of been rotating too much. The car jump/lands really good feels just like the 1.0 in that regard. Durability seems good. Ran about 100 laps and didn't break anything, but I didn't really have any bad wrecks or get ran over by any ebuggies.

I pulled the gear diffs and the fluid was black after three runs. I would definite recommend cleaning all the machining goop off the inner diff gears before you build the kit.
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