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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-16-2016, 10:34 AM   #211
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Have my new 2.0 at home and won't be building it for a while so what NECESSARY hop ups are recommended for a outdoor natural dirt track? Kept my proline calibers off my old buggy since they were hooked up. When is it necessary for the + rear wheel hexes?
I don't think there is anything necessary to add. The only things you might think about are aluminum bell cranks and/or aluminum A/B and servo horns.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:01 PM   #212
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my rear cvd's were bindy. One feels like it will be okay after running a pack or two, like Frank mentioned. The other is pretty bad. I going to try to find a real thin file to open the slot up slightly.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:15 PM   #213
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The 3 mm limiting in the front shocks, is that there for the base setup leaning towards high bite? Would I want to take some out going to an outdoor rough track running on loose dirt with lots of ruts and bumps?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:22 AM   #214
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The 3 mm limiting in the front shocks, is that there for the base setup leaning towards high bite? Would I want to take some out going to an outdoor rough track running on loose dirt with lots of ruts and bumps?
I run 1mm more droop front and rear than the kit setup.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:05 PM   #215
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What servo would you recommend if I'm looking for a new one?
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:41 PM   #216
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Has anyone else been having issues with the steering? On impacts the car tends to sway either left or right harder than normal, once you subtrim it out again its fine until another impact. Servo is good. Few guys locally with them have been having the same issues.
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:09 PM   #217
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Are you using the plastic bellcranks and a/b horn? If so it's probably one or the other about to break, usually the post on the bellcrank on my car.
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:40 PM   #218
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Are you using the plastic bellcranks and a/b horn? If so it's probably one or the other about to break, usually the post on the bellcrank on my car.
We all have aluminum bellcranks, and aluminum horns.
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #219
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We all have aluminum bellcranks, and aluminum horns.
Sounds like the servo is on the way out.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:25 PM   #220
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Sounds like the servo is on the way out.
Tried 2 new servos. Find it hard to believe both servos I have used are bad (they are also brand new) and 2 other peoples servos are bad. We are trying to troubleshoot and the only thing we've come up with is the steering link rod ends are stripping out and getting pushed in further on impacts.
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Old 06-19-2016, 03:59 AM   #221
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Originally Posted by Grigz View Post
Tried 2 new servos. Find it hard to believe both servos I have used are bad (they are also brand new) and 2 other peoples servos are bad. We are trying to troubleshoot and the only thing we've come up with is the steering link rod ends are stripping out and getting pushed in further on impacts.
Same problem I reported a day or 2 back, def replace the ends and they are probably crap by now, but when u build make sure u set ur end points correctly. I did not which casued them to mess up. After fixing that I have not had any issues.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:15 AM   #222
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Same problem I reported a day or 2 back, def replace the ends and they are probably crap by now, but when u build make sure u set ur end points correctly. I did not which casued them to mess up. After fixing that I have not had any issues.
Hopefully it fixes my issue too. Thats the only problem we've been having. The buggy is wicked fast and handles amazing.
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:47 PM   #223
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Great job TLR. This car was pretty much effortless to pick up and drive. Kit setup is working quite well on TRCR's med-high bite clay with a 13.5. Found a competitive pace first night out and folks were commenting that the car looked really, really good.

Had a little trouble with the outdrives...all my fault though. Cleaned them better and used more loctite (as suggested in Frank's video) and they've been solid for several battery packs.

The gear diffs were pretty gritty when they went into the car, but they are buttery smooth now after 10-15 runs.

This car feels worlds more connected than my 44.2 ever did. Very happy with my purchase!
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:00 PM   #224
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Notice that some setups use shims between from camber block and ball stud, curious what changes on the car
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:40 PM   #225
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What is the difference between the A and B hole on the servo link?
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