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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-10-2016, 03:11 PM   #166
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Will there ever be a gear center diff?
There was one for the 1.0 that people tried for a while, dig in the 1.0 thread to find more infos!
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:00 PM   #167
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thanks frank, one of mine is runnable, the other is a wreck...i ut a set in from an old car for the short term...

is the problem in the kit, or is it all the longer(cant remember the length) bones??
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:15 PM   #168
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Default Diffs

Hey guys. I have a question regarding filling the diffs. I'm coming from a d413. I ran a few packs through the car and decided to take it apart today to check on the diffs. I noticed that my front diff almost lost all the oil. Seal is tight. I'm assuming I overfilled the diff.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-11-2016, 03:56 AM   #169
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what is the proper level for the difs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same??
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Old 06-11-2016, 07:16 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
what is the proper level for the difs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same??
Glad I'm not the only one unsure with this part of the build. I would assume that filling them level would be correct but this is where tlr manuals could be more informative.
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:04 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
thanks frank, one of mine is runnable, the other is a wreck...i ut a set in from an old car for the short term...

is the problem in the kit, or is it all the longer(cant remember the length) bones??
It's an issue with all the first run of the 68mm driveshafts. Working on a resolution, but as a temporary fix, you can file open the pin slot a bit, and it should help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
what is the proper level for the difs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same??
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:13 PM   #172
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Are front rims the same as the 1.0?
Amain does not show a front rim in there replacement parts at least not in white. When I look at the 1.0 replacement parts and check compatible the don't list the 2.0
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:51 AM   #173
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Just want to confirm that the arrows should be pointing in on anti squat pill inserts
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:01 AM   #174
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Do Losi x rings need green slime
Or something similar. Both my 3.0 and my 22-4 leak.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:34 AM   #175
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Do Losi x rings need green slime
Or something similar. Both my 3.0 and my 22-4 leak.
I usually put some oil on them and let them sit for about 2 hours before building
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:52 PM   #176
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Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
Hey guys. I have a question regarding filling the diffs. I'm coming from a d413. I ran a few packs through the car and decided to take it apart today to check on the diffs. I noticed that my front diff almost lost all the oil. Seal is tight. I'm assuming I overfilled the diff.

Thoughts?
You very well could have overfilled it. Once the fluid finds a way out it just keeps leaking. Strip them down and re green slime/ grease everything and try again.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:35 AM   #177
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Originally Posted by Crazy Carl View Post
Are front rims the same as the 1.0?
Amain does not show a front rim in there replacement parts at least not in white. When I look at the 1.0 replacement parts and check compatible the don't list the 2.0
Yes, wheels are the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Do Losi x rings need green slime
Or something similar. Both my 3.0 and my 22-4 leak.
No need for green slime, and you shouldn't have any leaking
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:22 AM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Do Losi x rings need green slime
Or something similar. Both my 3.0 and my 22-4 leak.
Take a look at the way I built my shocks on the 22 3.0 in my build and drive article. About 1/2 of the way down I talk about building the shocks. Or you could always search using the following key words, Now for the shock assembly.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:55 PM   #179
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First night out with the car, car is running good, the only problem I'm having is that with 83.5 mm servo link length it keeps on backing out from the servo side. not sure how to fix it
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:52 PM   #180
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First night out with the car, car is running good, the only problem I'm having is that with 83.5 mm servo link length it keeps on backing out from the servo side. not sure how to fix it
Use the old XXX short ball cups (LOSA1615), they are tighter and a bit stronger.
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