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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-10-2017, 12:59 PM
  #5161  
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Default Chassis

Which chassis protector is preferred on the B6D chasssis, the light or the thick?
Thanks
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:01 PM
  #5162  
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Originally Posted by rgrg2
Which chassis protector is preferred on the B6D chasssis, the light or the thick?
Thanks
Thick.... last longer
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:16 PM
  #5163  
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Hi everyone, thank you for the awesome response to my Aussie Builds blog. By request I've finally got around creating a FB page linked to the wordpress blog.

For tips and tricks on, building, setup or maintenance on you AE Off Road rides, feel free to hit me up. The first few articles focus solely around the B6d. As soon as the 64 is out it will be up there as well.

https://www.facebook.com/aussiebuilds/
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:18 PM
  #5164  
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Everytime i try something other than JConcepts i'm dissapointed in the wear.

For 15 bucks you get 2 from JConcepts and i've never worn through one (I run indoor clay).

I've used AE Clear (pretty good, just have to custom cut), Protek, and Scheel and they lasted a handful of runs before they work down on the kickplates or rear of the chassis.
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:23 PM
  #5165  
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Anyone running the tall tower and 31mm shocks on indoor medium bite clay tracks? What did you notice when you changed over to it? Thanks
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:25 PM
  #5166  
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someone mentioned a type of tape they use as a chassis protector at their track that others use as well. I picked up a roll and may try it when I get another vehicle in.

Question for you other carpet guys, or, maybe this is just a general question. Sitting down looking at the vehicles I have as well as a recent one I had, one thing I noticed is going from one brand to another, it seemed the setup that worked quite well used a much lighter spring package (this is from various caculations on spring rates for comparisons) than what I am seeing on my B6 for carpet setups.

I am curious in general when you guys go from one brand to another, but stay in the same general class, how often would you see big rate differences in what you would run? Reason I ask is that I am thinking of ordering some more springs to try or use the brand I have here as they should fit to try out a lighter spring setup than what I currently use.
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:44 PM
  #5167  
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I'm not sure if it's thick or thin but I use one that the LHS has with their shop logo on it. The owner says the amount of time I spend on my lid I'm his best advertising budget investment
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:47 PM
  #5168  
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^^^ Hahaha...this website needs a "Like" button ^^^
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:15 AM
  #5169  
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Originally Posted by Cain
someone mentioned a type of tape they use as a chassis protector at their track that others use as well. I picked up a roll and may try it when I get another vehicle in.

Question for you other carpet guys, or, maybe this is just a general question. Sitting down looking at the vehicles I have as well as a recent one I had, one thing I noticed is going from one brand to another, it seemed the setup that worked quite well used a much lighter spring package (this is from various caculations on spring rates for comparisons) than what I am seeing on my B6 for carpet setups.

I am curious in general when you guys go from one brand to another, but stay in the same general class, how often would you see big rate differences in what you would run? Reason I ask is that I am thinking of ordering some more springs to try or use the brand I have here as they should fit to try out a lighter spring setup than what I currently use.
You can't really compare like this. It is different from one company to another because the piston to shock body fit is different, the entire suspension geometry is different. The leverage the shock package has on the suspension is different.
You can compare changes you make. How a car reacts to stiffer or lighter springs for example. However, car A using a white spring and trying to equate that to car D using the same spring rate doesn't work.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:02 AM
  #5170  
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Originally Posted by BruceR.
I'm not sure if it's thick or thin but I use one that the LHS has with their shop logo on it. The owner says the amount of time I spend on my lid I'm his best advertising budget investment
That is the same reason I spend more on chassis protectors than painting the body the side the crowd see's needs to look good lol.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:45 PM
  #5171  
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This is my first time painting and cutting out a body....so forgive my question...but before I do, do you have to drill the hole for the spur gear? Doesn't seem like it would fit otherwise. Any other tips? Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:39 PM
  #5172  
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Paint and use a body reamer... no biggie.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker
Paint and use a body reamer... no biggie.
Thanks. So there has to be a hole for the top shaft/spur correct?

I have read some posts about rubbing of the spur gear. Is this a big problem? Adding the spur gear cover worth it (91712)?
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:40 PM
  #5174  
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Okay here's a loaded question. For all you guys that had b5m's did you notice a big difference when you went to the B6D? I am on the fence about upgrading. Thanks
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:34 PM
  #5175  
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Originally Posted by denon
Thanks. So there has to be a hole for the top shaft/spur correct?

I have read some posts about rubbing of the spur gear. Is this a big problem? Adding the spur gear cover worth it (91712)?
Your need a hole in the body to alow the slipper nut room... (hopefully there is a body that avoids this in the future... pretty odd looking.. looks like a Losi 4 wheeler.)


I don't really see an issue with no.spur cover but the jcon one bolts up to the stock laydown plate. Schelle makes one along with a laydown plate.

Jconcepts all in one (milled) is super dialed looking but not sure if it will.be released or when if it does... you could always run a 52T spur...
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