Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B6 & B6D thread >

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree649Likes

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-04-2017, 12:04 PM
  #5101  
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
 
BRSracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Blue Springs MO
Posts: 1,945
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone run the 17.5 trinity Monster Horsepower motor yet? I got the 7.5 and it is awesome. Was thinking of the 17.5 for my stock car. Not looking to derail the thread on a stock motor debate just looking for feedback on this motor from other b6 owners.
BRSracing is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 12:27 PM
  #5102  
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
 
jabroni racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: largo florida
Posts: 1,872
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BRSracing
Has anyone run the 17.5 trinity Monster Horsepower motor yet? I got the 7.5 and it is awesome. Was thinking of the 17.5 for my stock car. Not looking to derail the thread on a stock motor debate just looking for feedback on this motor from other b6 owners.
I have one in my b5m & it flies, just the standard version not certified
jabroni racing is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 01:13 PM
  #5103  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 318
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Im trying to setup my B6d for an outdoor race. would these all work together for front wheels? if not what setup would you guys suggest? im not partial to any tire or wheel brand. just dont want to order the wrong stuff.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHJY&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZEJ&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEXF&P=7#
caffeine357 is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 02:15 PM
  #5104  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 34,380
Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)
Default

I would contact someone at the track to find out what the tires of choice are.
Cain is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 02:46 PM
  #5105  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Andrew Selvaggi's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,091
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default Aussie Builds - Maintenance Edition B6

Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
Andrew Selvaggi is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:41 PM
  #5106  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 341
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog.
More great tips from the Aussie Build Blog. thanks for taking the time to create this blog Andrew. Good Stuff!
hsp-sandiego is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 04:09 PM
  #5107  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 62
Default

Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
Good stuff.
Bomba is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 04:23 PM
  #5108  
Tech Regular
 
stegger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ellesmere port Cheshire UK
Posts: 298
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
Also forgot to mention that we also switch to the AE 5mm or 6mm rear hexes.
Not sure if anybody has noticed but the rear axles on the B64D have 65mm axles ! I wonder with the B64d rear hubs if this would give the same effect plus it would get rid of TRASH PARTS!!!
stegger is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 04:34 PM
  #5109  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stegger
Not sure if anybody has noticed but the rear axles on the B64D have 65mm axles ! I wonder with the B64d rear hubs if this would give the same effect plus it would get rid of TRASH PARTS!!!
I doubt they would work. The width of the diffs are not the same.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 04:45 PM
  #5110  
Tech Master
 
cementsurfer86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lake Tapps, WA
Posts: 1,165
Default

Originally Posted by Skeeter36
Did you get this figured out
Skeeter, I ordered a new case and idler gear, which should be here on Thursday. Hopefully that'll fix it. I tried massaging and dremeling the case in all sorts of places but couldn't get it to go away.


It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
cementsurfer86 is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 05:04 PM
  #5111  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 979
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
Looks good! Just a suggestion -- if you could add an RSS feed for it, that would make it easier for people to follow.
tsair is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 05:25 PM
  #5112  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 318
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain
I would contact someone at the track to find out what the tires of choice are.
that is my tire choice cain. im just verifying if those tires and foams will fit on those wheels i linked.

Thanks!
caffeine357 is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 10:09 PM
  #5113  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 34,380
Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by caffeine357
that is my tire choice cain. im just verifying if those tires and foams will fit on those wheels i linked.

Thanks!
gotcha. My impression is that the wheels and inserts will work together. As for the wheels, The description say 2.4 and I don't get the same impression for the tires and inserts as being the EVO ones which work on those type of wheels from what I recall.

You would probably want this or something similar:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBVMV&P=7
Cain is offline  
Old 01-04-2017, 11:32 PM
  #5114  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cementsurfer86
Skeeter, I ordered a new case and idler gear, which should be here on Thursday. Hopefully that'll fix it. I tried massaging and dremeling the case in all sorts of places but couldn't get it to go away.


It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
It's just strange because it's a molded part and they are really hard to screw up. It's a process designed to do thousands of identical pieces. I'm wondering if the top shaft itself is faulty. That would be more likely
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 01-05-2017, 07:21 AM
  #5115  
Tech Master
 
cementsurfer86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lake Tapps, WA
Posts: 1,165
Default

Originally Posted by Skeeter36
It's just strange because it's a molded part and they are really hard to screw up. It's a process designed to do thousands of identical pieces. I'm wondering if the top shaft itself is faulty. That would be more likely

If the case doesn't work, that'll be the next step. The case should be in today, so we shall see.
cementsurfer86 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.