649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-03-2016, 01:08 PM
#4576
12-03-2016, 05:38 PM
#4578
Tech Apprentice
I just started a BD6 build this morning. I threw in a Savox 1258tg with an Exotek Aluminum servo horn with the 2mm ball stud removed as well as spacers removed from behind the servo ears...im still getting just a little rub between the servo horn and the top plate...other than that, the rest of build has been on point, I stopped right before building the shocks to watch Penn St. vs Wisconsin...
12-03-2016, 05:46 PM
#4579
Tech Apprentice
whats the deal with sanding and sealing the carbon fiber shock towers? I built a 1/10th sedan a few years ago and I sanded and sealed all of the carbon fiber in the kit...are people still doing this for the shock towers? I think I read something that said there is no need anymore, although I could be wrong...
12-03-2016, 06:16 PM
#4580
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
I haven't sealed any shock towers so far. The first rear one that I had that came with the kit lasted around 6 weeks. The second (an x-factory one that was supposed to be stronger), about 2 weeks. Most recently, another AE one lasted less than one race day before coming apart.
I also just found out that I had a bent d-block....anybody else had this? (new on top, older bent one on bottom)
I also just found out that I had a bent d-block....anybody else had this? (new on top, older bent one on bottom)
Last edited by joncmack; 12-04-2016 at 05:46 AM.
12-03-2016, 06:39 PM
#4581
Tech Apprentice
im gonna let mine rock without the sanding and sealing, if they fall apart, I will sand and seal the replacement towers...
12-03-2016, 07:07 PM
#4582
Protek 160T
No servo spacers
Exotek horn 2mm spacer
Car 2
Protek 170SBL
No servo spacers
Associated horn no spacers
I will say the associated horn sits a couple MM higher than the exotek. I prefer the lower Exotek to keep the link level as possible
Here's a shot from the back so you can see the height diff
1st is exotek, 2nd is Associated
Last edited by abailey21; 12-03-2016 at 08:26 PM.
12-03-2016, 07:28 PM
#4583
Is there a certain glue you guys like for sealing towers? I was used to just using what i had on hand, but this time had some HPI glue that for this purchase was not good. Anyway, curious what others like.
I do have a race report. we ran the first race of the winter series. Had about 60+ total entries which is really good for the area. Lots of 2wd and 4wd buggies, with the latter at points looking like the Hot Bodies D413 spec class lol.
Anyway, I ran my B6D with this setup except:
- No brass front bulkhead
- longer rear shocks
- orange front springs
- PT Racing oils (I need to confirm CSTs but I used PT Racings oil conversion basically to Losi but +2.5W I think for the conversion)
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
we are limited to non-hardpin tires on a carpet track which I would describe as very high traction as you can traction roll using harder tires like proline street fighters.
Its common to use slick clay compound tires all around, sauced with SXT 3.0 compound or the schumacher staggers up front and slicks in the rear.
My setup was just that, aka slicks rear, schumachers up front.
I ran with the battery all the back. (what does 5F mean battery position wise?) but also tried it forward, but liked all the way back better
Anyway, the main issue I had is that there is a portion of the track where the carpet changes from ozite to something tan where traction seems to come up slightly, and the carpet is more bumpy. When you hit this part coming down the long straight, you can get kicked around a bit and possibly traction roll. My vehicle also felt a bit inconsistent on sections where it was more bumpy. Finally its steering felt too aggressive I think about mid turn. I ended up running a good portion of negative expo to get a better feel at lower steering inputs.
For the main I ended up moving the shock position on the front arms out and the seemed to help calm things down a lot. I am wondering if I buy the purple springs that they will give me more of what i am looking for.
However, for the inconsistent bump handling, what do you guys recommend? I was thinking maybe going down 50CST to see if that helps as maybe the shock action was not occuring fast enough.
Other than that,the car is really good.
Oh, and I did bend a rear shock shaft (gold ones) and the guy insert that goes into the lower shock cap got hogged out. So will order some spares for that issue. Of the two types, which are more durable?
I do have a race report. we ran the first race of the winter series. Had about 60+ total entries which is really good for the area. Lots of 2wd and 4wd buggies, with the latter at points looking like the Hot Bodies D413 spec class lol.
Anyway, I ran my B6D with this setup except:
- No brass front bulkhead
- longer rear shocks
- orange front springs
- PT Racing oils (I need to confirm CSTs but I used PT Racings oil conversion basically to Losi but +2.5W I think for the conversion)
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
we are limited to non-hardpin tires on a carpet track which I would describe as very high traction as you can traction roll using harder tires like proline street fighters.
Its common to use slick clay compound tires all around, sauced with SXT 3.0 compound or the schumacher staggers up front and slicks in the rear.
My setup was just that, aka slicks rear, schumachers up front.
I ran with the battery all the back. (what does 5F mean battery position wise?) but also tried it forward, but liked all the way back better
Anyway, the main issue I had is that there is a portion of the track where the carpet changes from ozite to something tan where traction seems to come up slightly, and the carpet is more bumpy. When you hit this part coming down the long straight, you can get kicked around a bit and possibly traction roll. My vehicle also felt a bit inconsistent on sections where it was more bumpy. Finally its steering felt too aggressive I think about mid turn. I ended up running a good portion of negative expo to get a better feel at lower steering inputs.
For the main I ended up moving the shock position on the front arms out and the seemed to help calm things down a lot. I am wondering if I buy the purple springs that they will give me more of what i am looking for.
However, for the inconsistent bump handling, what do you guys recommend? I was thinking maybe going down 50CST to see if that helps as maybe the shock action was not occuring fast enough.
Other than that,the car is really good.
Oh, and I did bend a rear shock shaft (gold ones) and the guy insert that goes into the lower shock cap got hogged out. So will order some spares for that issue. Of the two types, which are more durable?
Last edited by Cain; 12-03-2016 at 07:41 PM.
12-03-2016, 07:36 PM
#4584
whats the deal with sanding and sealing the carbon fiber shock towers? I built a 1/10th sedan a few years ago and I sanded and sealed all of the carbon fiber in the kit...are people still doing this for the shock towers? I think I read something that said there is no need anymore, although I could be wrong...
12-03-2016, 07:42 PM
#4585
Is there a certain glue you guys like for sealing towers? I was used to just using what i had on hand, but this time had some HPI glue that for this purchase was not good. Anyway, curious what others like.
I do have a race report. we ran the first race of the winter series. Had about 60+ total entries which is really good for the area. Lots of 2wd and 4wd buggies, with the latter at points looking like the Hot Bodies D413 spec class lol.
Anyway, I ran my B6D with this setup except:
- No brass front bulkhead
- longer rear shocks
- orange front springs
- PT Racing oils (I need to confirm CSTs but I used PT Racings oil conversion basically to Losi but +2.5W I think for the conversion)
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
we are limited to non-hardpin tires on a carpet track which I would describe as very high traction as you can traction roll using harder tires like proline street fighters.
Its common to use slick clay compound tires all around, sauced with SXT 3.0 compound or the schumacher staggers up front and slicks in the rear.
My setup was just that, aka slicks rear, schumachers up front.
I ran with the battery all the back. (what does 5F mean battery position wise?) but also tried it forward, but liked all the way back better
Anyway, the main issue I had is that there is a portion of the track where the carpet changes from ozite to something tan where traction seems to come up slightly, and the carpet is more bumpy. When you hit this part coming down the long straight, you can get kicked around a bit and possibly traction roll. My vehicle also felt a bit inconsistent on sections where it was more bumpy. Finally its steering felt too aggressive I think about mid turn. I ended up running a good portion of negative expo to get a better feel at lower steering inputs.
For the main I ended up moving the shock position on the front arms out and the seemed to help calm things down a lot. I am wondering if I buy the purple springs that they will give me more of what i am looking for.
However, for the inconsistent bump handling, what do you guys recommend? I was thinking maybe going down 50CST to see if that helps as maybe the shock action was not occuring fast enough.
Other than that,the car is really good.
Oh, and I did bend a rear shock shaft (gold ones) and the guy insert that goes into the lower shock cap got hogged out. So will order some spares for that issue.
I do have a race report. we ran the first race of the winter series. Had about 60+ total entries which is really good for the area. Lots of 2wd and 4wd buggies, with the latter at points looking like the Hot Bodies D413 spec class lol.
Anyway, I ran my B6D with this setup except:
- No brass front bulkhead
- longer rear shocks
- orange front springs
- PT Racing oils (I need to confirm CSTs but I used PT Racings oil conversion basically to Losi but +2.5W I think for the conversion)
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
we are limited to non-hardpin tires on a carpet track which I would describe as very high traction as you can traction roll using harder tires like proline street fighters.
Its common to use slick clay compound tires all around, sauced with SXT 3.0 compound or the schumacher staggers up front and slicks in the rear.
My setup was just that, aka slicks rear, schumachers up front.
I ran with the battery all the back. (what does 5F mean battery position wise?) but also tried it forward, but liked all the way back better
Anyway, the main issue I had is that there is a portion of the track where the carpet changes from ozite to something tan where traction seems to come up slightly, and the carpet is more bumpy. When you hit this part coming down the long straight, you can get kicked around a bit and possibly traction roll. My vehicle also felt a bit inconsistent on sections where it was more bumpy. Finally its steering felt too aggressive I think about mid turn. I ended up running a good portion of negative expo to get a better feel at lower steering inputs.
For the main I ended up moving the shock position on the front arms out and the seemed to help calm things down a lot. I am wondering if I buy the purple springs that they will give me more of what i am looking for.
However, for the inconsistent bump handling, what do you guys recommend? I was thinking maybe going down 50CST to see if that helps as maybe the shock action was not occuring fast enough.
Other than that,the car is really good.
Oh, and I did bend a rear shock shaft (gold ones) and the guy insert that goes into the lower shock cap got hogged out. So will order some spares for that issue.
12-03-2016, 08:06 PM
#4587
can you elaborate on what difference I would see exactly? Trying to understand why they are good versus the AE offering, assuming the AE offering match their rating.
Also, how do there ratings compare to AEs? (ex-a Yatabe X spring is Y in AE rating)
And am I correct as the part # goes up in size the stiffer the spring?
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Rear Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-975: Purple
YOKYAS-1000: Black
YOKYAS-1025: Orange
YOKYAS-1050: Green
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Front Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-650: Purple
YOKYAS-675: Black
YOKYAS-700: Orange
YOKYAS-800: Red
YOKYAS-825: Yellow
Also, how do there ratings compare to AEs? (ex-a Yatabe X spring is Y in AE rating)
And am I correct as the part # goes up in size the stiffer the spring?
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Rear Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-975: Purple
YOKYAS-1000: Black
YOKYAS-1025: Orange
YOKYAS-1050: Green
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Front Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-650: Purple
YOKYAS-675: Black
YOKYAS-700: Orange
YOKYAS-800: Red
YOKYAS-825: Yellow
12-03-2016, 08:16 PM
#4589
can you elaborate on what difference I would see exactly? Trying to understand why they are good versus the AE offering, assuming the AE offering match their rating.
Also, how do there ratings compare to AEs? (ex-a Yatabe X spring is Y in AE rating)
And am I correct as the part # goes up in size the stiffer the spring?
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Rear Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-975: Purple
YOKYAS-1000: Black
YOKYAS-1025: Orange
YOKYAS-1050: Green
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Front Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-650: Purple
YOKYAS-675: Black
YOKYAS-700: Orange
YOKYAS-800: Red
YOKYAS-825: Yellow
Also, how do there ratings compare to AEs? (ex-a Yatabe X spring is Y in AE rating)
And am I correct as the part # goes up in size the stiffer the spring?
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Rear Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-975: Purple
YOKYAS-1000: Black
YOKYAS-1025: Orange
YOKYAS-1050: Green
Yokomo Turf/Carpet Front Shock Spring Rates:
Hard
YOKYAS-650: Purple
YOKYAS-675: Black
YOKYAS-700: Orange
YOKYAS-800: Red
YOKYAS-825: Yellow
12-04-2016, 01:51 AM
#4590
Tech Apprentice
Pulled an all nighter and finished the whole build. So far its a B6D with a 1258tg servo, Orion R10 pro, Exotek aluminum steering servo and a set of Exotek alloy twist nuts for battery screws...other than that, its box stock bitch!!
I need battery suggestions, I have no clue about lipo batteries, this is my first foray into offroad after a long break in the hobby....
I need battery suggestions, I have no clue about lipo batteries, this is my first foray into offroad after a long break in the hobby....