649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-09-2016, 10:35 AM
#4276
11-09-2016, 11:19 AM
#4277
Is anyone having issues bending the rear aluminum ball stud mount? I have managed to twist three so far, at $15 dollars a pop this is getting pretty old. Most of the time the car will start to act real erratic and I bend it back but after a few times doing this it is too twisted to save.
No major crashes just normal bumps and bangs during racing or practice
No major crashes just normal bumps and bangs during racing or practice
11-09-2016, 01:21 PM
#4279
11-09-2016, 02:03 PM
#4281
anyone know which TLR aluminum dogbones will work on the B6D? i saw a post awhile back somewhere, can't find it
also saw a photo of a battery brace for B6D that where you remove waterfall and run a link from gearbox to top of battery plate. anyone know who makes it for sale? maybe just a one off custom?
also saw a photo of a battery brace for B6D that where you remove waterfall and run a link from gearbox to top of battery plate. anyone know who makes it for sale? maybe just a one off custom?
11-09-2016, 05:32 PM
#4283
Cool, Thanks man.
11-09-2016, 07:35 PM
#4285
not sure if anyone saw these:
http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-front...1-pair-b6-b6d/
http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-hd-pu...-puck-systems/
http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-front...1-pair-b6-b6d/
http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-hd-pu...-puck-systems/
11-10-2016, 08:59 AM
#4288
Everyone is making tower, because CF is easy to design and make. Molded plastic is much harder and expensive. As far as durability? They all seem to be the same. I dont think any tower on the market is clearly more durable. Aside from maybe the VRP tower. I just refuse to put aluminum towers on my car....
11-10-2016, 09:14 AM
#4290